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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2019 10:26am - Edited by: KinAlberta
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Your thoughts and experiences with utility trailer choices please. (Size, frame material, ramp, design...)
I’ve been talking to my wife about replacing my Subaru suv with a mid-full size suv (Tahoe, Expedition, Sequoia...). We no longer have our Excursion. She thinks we should just consider getting a utility trailer.
So I see that there painted steel, galvanized, and aluminum frames and other options to consider. My experience with painted steel is that it will rust from within to the point of being dangerous. (That’s the case with our old, now unusable, doublewide skidoo trailer.) So paying up for lasting quality may make sense.
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KelVarnsen
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2019 11:37am
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I have a few things that I like about my utility trailer. Firstly, it's just big enough to lay full 4' x 8' sheets of building materials flat. Secondly, the wheels and radial tires are large enough for towing long distances at highway speeds. Also, I have a spare tire bolted to the tongue. Also, the tailgate flips down fully but can also be taken off by pulling some hinge pins.
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creeky
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2019 02:06pm
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Got a big box trailer made of tin foil. Nothing works well but everything works. Redid some wiring. Banged out dents. Etc. Have to say it's paid for itself many times over. I would definetly go trailer with smaller vehicle. Gas savings alone. Easier driving.
Bought a big steel trailer with brakes. Much higher quality. Funny how much you end up appreciating the better hitch mechanism. The smoother tracking. Brakes when you're hauling a couple of tonnes.
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VC_fan
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2019 05:26pm
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I thought the ones at the big box stores just looked too flimsy. I paid a few hundred more and bought one I really like - brand is Lawrimore. It was sold by somebody who had just set up on an outlot by a strip mall. It's got a 5x8 bed and the 3500 lb axle but I can still move it around by hand (at least on a level surface). It's only rated at 2000 lb because in Ohio anything over 2000 lb requires electric brakes and this doesn't have them. And the wheels are pretty far back which makes it easier to back up at the expense of a little higher tongue weight. Weighs about 700 lb empty. It's also paid for itself several times over. Mine has the ramp gate which I like a lot better than the tilt bed I'd used before.
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Houska
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2019 06:19pm
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Be aware that recent-year Subaru Forester towing capacity is pretty low, 1500 lbs if I remember correctly. They prioritized fuel economy over towing. So the lightweight tinfoil trailer might be your only option, depending on exactly what Subaru you have.
Subaru outback and their new fullsize SUV have higher tow capacity.
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aktundra
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2019 07:14pm
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Don't buy from a box store!
I have bigger utility trailers but agree they are extremely useful. Even my cheapest snowmachine trailer has moved a house, building materials, airplane floats, airplanes, etc.
Don't be shy about the Subaru towing. I don't see which one you have, but the 1,500 lb. capacity is very conservative. Although it's not screaming up hills, it's very capable from my experience with both Outback and Forester. Also note, in Europe, the tow capacity of a Forester is over 3000 pounds with electric brakes. It's very underrated in the US for the same engine.
I really like electric brakes and they don't add much cost to a trailer. I agree, whatever trailer you get, make it able to tow 4x8 sheets of plywood. I also like having good tie down points and lots of trailers fail in this area. I weld them on myself later but it would be nice to find a well thought out trailer. A place in town used to make them, but couldn't convince people to buy his quality vs the cheap ones. He makes more money fixing the cheap ones than he did building the quality trailers.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 26 Mar 2019 08:34am
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I have a 5x8 aluminum trailer with tailgate that folds down to be used as a ramp. It is lightweight, very sturdy and has been very durable. It has to be at least 10 years old or more now. The sides are slatted so lots of places for tie downs etc. If I am hauling dirt or gravel I have plywood sides I lean up to close it in. The aluminum bed is nice for shovelling items out and easy clean. The axel is torsion style which means no leaf springs. It rides very smoothly and you don't even notice it behind you. Being aluminum I can easily pick the tongue up and move it around without being hooked to my vehicle. Definitely get something that a 4x8 sheet of plywood or drywall will lay flat in.
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 26 Mar 2019 10:21am
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I think the most important thing is trailer brakes. Especially if you are trailering in snow. In Ak we can use studs . I put two studded tires on my trailer to help keep it straight. But even on dry road having the ass end of your rig jacking up in the air because your load is pushing you is a bad feeling.
Maybe want to think about the type of rig you want and get a trailer sized to it .
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Brettny
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# Posted: 26 Mar 2019 02:06pm
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If a subaru is your tow vehicle i would get an aluminum trailer. You prob wont find a trailer that small with brakes unless you order it from a trailer manufacturer.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 27 Mar 2019 03:55pm
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If you end up getting an aluminum trailer, be sure to inspect the frame regularly. Aluminum is prone to cracking and you can find yourself loosing pieces of trailer going down the highway.
Ask me how I know! 
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 28 Mar 2019 10:38am - Edited by: KinAlberta
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Yeah my Tribecca is rated for 3500 lbs but I’ll likely replace it anyways before getting around to picking up up a trailer. Until then we have my wife’s VW with a 7,700 lb rating (plus over 400 lbft of torque).
One thing I’ve learned to really appreciate is an equalizer. I have a tiny one from a tent trailer we used to own but the tongue would need the diagonal frame bars and not just a straight tow bar.
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Peewee86
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2019 03:44pm
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I have a Flow Cargo Max that has been a perfect do it all utility trailer. It weighs less than 300# and has a 1600# load capacity. Small enough and light enough to be towed by just about any vehicle. It is box is 61†by 123†and my 60†wide Can am Maverick fits like a glove. The poly floor and sides make unloading brush or leaves a breeze.
Unfortunately these trailers were redesigned about five years ago and their prices have gone up significantly from the $1200 that I paid for mine.
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bobrok
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2019 04:26pm - Edited by: bobrok
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I bought a used homemade snowmobile trailer for cheap and rebuilt it to my specs.
It was solidly built from channel steel, 5' x 8'.
Fat tires tucked under the deck so no fenders protruding.
First thing I did was disassemble the entire thing and powder coat it. After rebuild and rewire I bolstered the leaf springs by adding a few additional leaf sections.
Went to a sawmill and bought white ash for the 4 sides; pressure treated for the deck.
Yes, it's heavier than one of those flimsy big box units, but it hauls straight and true and, just as importantly, it doesn't rattle like its gonna fall apart when you drive down the road.
I figure I have about as much into it as one of those big box trailers, but mine is so much sturdier.
And I really don't see a significant drop in gas mileage hauling the extra weight.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2019 07:14am
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If your spending any time on the highway i would avoid anything with small tires like a most snowmobile trailers have. Small tires have to turn very fast compaired to 14/15in tires. Sitting on the side of the highway with a trailer with a broken off spindle or destroyed bearings dosnt make for a good time or a quick repair.
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2019 05:13pm
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Yeah the small tires are never great but like bobrok we had our old double-wide built in the late 1970s with extra heavy duty materials and then put the best small tires on it available at the time. It did well for years. It was heavily used in this 1980s and then hardly used at all in the 1990s. Unfortunately when I went to put replacement tires on it (about 15 yrs ago) and crawled under it I saw that it was all rusted out.
Basically it’s frame rusted out in about 20 yrs time. That’s pretty poor for something that sat around 90%+ of the time.
So galvanized or aluminum seem like a low maintenance choice that may retain better resale value.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2019 06:05pm
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A big thing to keep in mind is greasing the bearings. We had a pop up trailer for years and every spring i religiously made sure I greased the bearings. With my utility trailer I have bearing buddies which I make sure are full of grease. Like mentioned previously, nothing worse than being on the side of the highway with an axle spun off!!
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2019 07:13pm - Edited by: KinAlberta
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Yeah we used bearing buddies. Do bearings today still need greasing?
Read a few things on sealed bearings, oil bath and bearing buddies. Seems like sealed permanently lubed (sometimes called composite) bearings should do fine for years. Not sure about boat trailers but otherwise If I had a choice I’d maybe avoid the hassle and try the sealed first and watch for problems.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 30 Apr 2019 08:12am
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Use greaseable spindles or bearing buddies. A quick shot of grease can do wonders.
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 24 May 2019 06:13pm
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Trailer brakes were mentioned. Found this:
Parts Needed to Add Electric Drum Brakes to a Trailer | etrailer.com
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-Adding-Electric-Drum-Brakes.aspx
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 24 May 2019 06:55pm - Edited by: KinAlberta
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So I’ve looked at some really nice trailers at Lowe’s.
Question 1: the pressure treated wood decks. Will they corrode the metal?
Will the fasteners/bolts corrode and fail? If there’s a risk, I figure that it might be wise to pull the deck boards, put in a membrane and make sure the bolts are stainless steel, ACQ rated...
Question 2: the steel trailers seem guaranteed to rust. No one really likes them but here they are half the price!
So would spraying rubberized undercoating on a brand new trailer help it? Or just create major future work and accelerated rust?
Would a plastic “wrap†rock shield type of protection help?
Or maybe just spraying on a few more coats of rustoleum to thicken the paint to reduce rock and sand pitting. Maybe buy a few years before having to fix it all up.
So our old square tube sled trailer’s frame has holes rusted right through the tubing. Likely trapped mud. salt and water in it.
If you’ve had a steel utility trailer where are the bad spots for rust?
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Brettny
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# Posted: 26 May 2019 08:59am
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Sorry but the only trailers lowes have are new and shiny. They are not nice.
No need for PT decking. I have plain old 2x6 deck on my trailer for 10yrs with no rot.
Yes you can repaint the trailer or touch it up when you see rust. Dont undercoat it. It can rust behind the undercoat and it will start trapping water.
Get a spare tire and keep it with the trailer.
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 26 May 2019 12:41pm
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Most trailer tires are rated at highway speeds no greater than 65 mph.
It does not matter what type of trailer (non-commercial) you are towing.
I can't tell you how many tire blow outs and jackknifed trailers I've seen over the years.
We got a TPS (trailer pressure monitoring system) when we bought our travel trailer. I feel much safer using this system while towing.
If we are going to have a trailer failure we will have enough warning to pull over avoiding costly repairs.
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 28 May 2019 11:34am - Edited by: KinAlberta
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Anyone ever consider putting a sway control on a small open / flat bed utility trailer? Say 5x9, 6x10 and up.
I have one on a shelf somewhere from an small tent trailer I owned. In towing snowmobiles, garden tractor, boats etc. I’ve never noticed much if any sway but then I’ve never had to tow an unbalanced load or make any sudden lane changes etc.
However even with the little tent trailer I sure noticed the improved towability with the little anti-sway control added to it.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 28 May 2019 03:18pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: Aklogcabin I think the most important thing is trailer brakes.
Well, then look on the axle for the mounting flange to put brakes on then. Otherwise, get it with brakes. Brakes are easy to add, BUT now it can never be towed legally by a tow rig without a brake controller. Law is, if it has electric brakes, they better be hooked up. Get you a 10 or a 12ft landscape type, galvie frame, flip down rear gate/ramp, 14 or 15" radial tires. . Pay attention to scale weight too and what your rig can haul.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 28 May 2019 03:19pm
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Quoting: KinAlberta Anyone ever consider putting a sway control on a small open / flat bed utility trailer? Say 5x9, 6x10 and up.
Add longer tongue, or increase tongue weight, load heavier in front. Hopefully, axle is behind center of trailer.
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 30 May 2019 01:15am - Edited by: silverwaterlady
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We've never towed our travel trailer without the sway bars.
I have seen people towing without them.
That's the trailer you will see swaying every time a semi truck passes them or if it's windy.
I don't think I've ever seen sway bars on utility trailers.
Tire pressure is something I didn't bring up. Many tire failures occur due to incorrect tire pressure.
Someone mentioned having to make a quick lane change while towing.
Never, ever do that!
Your lane change while towing should take 10 seconds, 3 seconds with the turn signal and 7 seconds with the lane change.
Look a quarter mile ahead, keep a good distance between the car ahead of you and do not exceed 65 mph while towing.
If you follow these rules you will never need to make a quick lane change which can result in a roll over event.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 30 May 2019 06:13am
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You see travel trailers with sway control because they can act like a big sail. Utility trailers dont have this issue unless there loaded wrong.
I wouldnt bother with the sway control or the TPMS system. Check your tires every trip or week if your useing the trailer much. I also angle my mirrors down on tje tow vehicle a bit so i can see a flat happening. The best guarantee of not getting a flat is having a spare on the trailer and the tools to change it.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 30 May 2019 07:12pm
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Quoting: Brettny The best guarantee of not getting a flat is having a spare on the trailer and the tools to change it.
Isnt that the truth. 
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Gone2TheCamp
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2019 02:49pm
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We have two tow vehicles at home, so my options were....a mazda 3, or another mazda 3.
I have had several utility trailers over the years, but this time I decided to downsize and buy new.
HomeDepot (in Canada) has a galvanized 4x6 trailer, the complete kit is about $700. Before you lose it, that is cheap, all things considered. Those HF trailer....can't buy them here.
Anyway....I love this trailer. It's light enough I can just grab it and shove it around the yard, and they say it's 4x6, but...I extended a piece of plywood about 8" past the back of the frame, and cut the corners off the front of the ply so it could extend up the tongue a ways, and I have a full 4x8 trailer (minus the corners up front). And, the ply extended out the back runs over top of the lights, just far enough to protect them from getting smacked and broken by a board when loading or unloading.
I can carry anything I've ever needed to..including all the lumber and siding for my camp I just finished building....the siding needed another piece of plywood screwed down to the deck and extending a couple extra feet out the back, but whatever...
I've hauled an ATV, my motorcycle, nearly a full pallet of vinyl plank flooring.... The flooring was a bad idea...it was grossly overloaded...it was hauled from the flooring store to my house, (about 4 blocks)...and it bottomed the suspension out. BUT, nothing bent, and nothing broke. (Don't try this at home)
You didn't really come right out and say what you planned on hauling, so this little trailer may be a joke. But, if you think about what you're actually going to need to haul, and none of it's super big, or heavy....the low investment and light weight for pulling and man-handling may be attractive to you.
At my house, I have a carport and shed to deal with....so, my trailer needs to be stored along the edge of the yard, and the only way to get it between the carport posts and the front of the shed is by hand....so if I can't shove it around, I can't store it. Depending on your situation, this might be attractive too....
Something else I noticed about the HD 4x6 is that it's actually about 4' 1.5" wide. So, there's still 3/4" of an inch of frame on each side of your 4' with plywood desk. If you wanted to add sides, the uprights would bolt to the sides of the frame, and 3/4" plywood sides would sit perfectly on that extra 3/4" of frame.
It's not heavy duty, but I've worked it pretty hard for 3-4 years, and it shows no signs of bending, breaking, or rusting. And I haul my snowblower back and forth to the camp all winter...in Eastern Canada...so for me to own ANYTHING that's not rusting, is pretty big news. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat.
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Wilbour
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2019 05:05pm
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You mentioned replacing your Subaru. Have you seen the 2020 Outback? Lots of nice stuff on this one. Better bang for your buck if you were otherwise looking at a full sized SUV, unless you haul for a living.
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