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neb
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2012 12:23pm
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I don't plan on using my 4 wheeler this winter. So should I fill the tank and add stabilizer or try to run the gas out of the machine??? This may sound stubid but not sure what to do. If adding stabilizer how much do you add???
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Just
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2012 12:37pm
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fill tank ,,add stabilizer as per directions on bottle ,, run engine for 5 min,, turn off fuel tap shutoff..IMO.. oh ya wright yourself a note to remind yourself to turn on the gas next time you use it !!!
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neb
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2012 12:45pm
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Just
Thanks for the help. I almost feel ashamed that I would have to ask a question like this but I'm not sure if this would be fine to do.
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Just
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2012 12:50pm
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ha bud, when you are as old as us you need a bit of help sometimes
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neb
Member
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2012 01:16pm
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You are right Just. LOL I always run my gas engines out of gas each fall and I have had no problems with carbs. I haven't used this stuff and makes me question if it is fine to use. Thanks again.
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Martian
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2012 04:03pm
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Are you planning on fogging the cylinders and changing the oil, too?
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neb
Member
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2012 09:44pm
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Martian
Not sure what you mean!!!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2012 09:57pm
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Quoting: Just fill tank ,,add stabilizer as per directions
Better is to put stabilizer in gas can, fill with appropriate quantity of fresh gas to mix well. Then add to vehicle gas tank. Preferably the gas tank will be almost empty. Then run carb dry. I start using gas with stabilizer in it a few weeks before storing our machines. That way there is stabilizer in whatever is in the tank when it comes time to store it.
Remove spark plug and squirt in some light oil. Crank engine a few times with spark plug wire grounded. Replace plug.
Remove battery and maintain the charge over the winter. Either use a charger that is a true float charger or check and charge once a month (for a day). Watch the fluid level.
Change engine oil after the last run, check the other fluids. If it is liquid cooled check the antifreeze strength.
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Martian
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# Posted: 7 Oct 2012 08:05am
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Quoting: neb Martian Not sure what you mean!!!
Neb, the oil should be changed to prevent the acids, and other contaminates found in used oil, from just sitting in the crankcase attacking bearing surfaces. Fogging oil is the last step in winterizing. It is sprayed into the intake, with the engine running, until the engine shuts down. The purpose is to coat the valves, cylinders, and passageways with a light coat of oil; thus, preventing corrosion. Any outboard motor dealer will have it.
Tom
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larry
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# Posted: 7 Oct 2012 01:28pm
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i would agree with the advice i have read here except for one thing, the draining of the carb and leaving fuel turned off. the reason i say this is i have had atvs, jet skis and sleds. every time i had a carb problem come time to use the toy is when i had the fuel turned off during storage. from issues like needle and seat not sealing, gaskets drying out and leaking and even corrosion in the float bowl that plugged an idle circuit in the carb. now i open the plug in the bottom of the carb to drain any water or debris and leave fuel on during the off season and have yet to have a carb problem.
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neb
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# Posted: 7 Oct 2012 02:17pm
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Martian /larry
Thanks for all the advise!!! That was one of the questions I had after filling tank and adding sea foam and run for awhile is do I shut gas off and run machine till it dies or just leave the fuel on and store>
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 7 Oct 2012 04:24pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: neb I don't plan on using my 4 wheeler this winter. So should I fill the tank and add stabilizer or try to run the gas out of the machine??? This may sound stupid but not sure what to do. If adding stabilizer how much do you add???
Fill tank, leave a small amount of air space for normal expansion. But basically full. Add fuel stabilizer. Run the engine for 10 minutes, this ensures all fuel in the carb is fuel treated with stabilizer. Its real important to keep the carb full of fuel. Running it till it dies isnt enough, there is still plenty of fuel in there. But now with air space, you will get corrosion/oxidation. This plugs the pilot circuit (idle) and will make it not run in spring. Now the fuel in the carb will evaporate. Turn the valve on (if you have the auto valve, turn it to prime for about 2 minutes), this will ensure carb bowl area remains full of fuel. Do not let the carb go low on fuel from evaporation. Turn it on, maybe each time you hook up the battery tender (see 3rd paragraph on battery tender) and dont run it once a month just to keep it fresh. That creates sweat and the exhaust will rust out.
For real long term storage:
Many carbs will have a drain on the bottom. Otherwise, remove carb, drain all fuel, spray clean with brake cleaner, it evaporates quickly. Reinstall carb, but DO NOT TURN THE FUEL ON! Keeping the carb full of treated fuel is the best and easiest. The drain/clean method would be best for extremely long term storage.
Get a battery tender. The Junior unit. Keep it either plugged in or plug it in one day a month overnight. The battery going dead will shorten the life on your battery so quick.
I have been a professional tech for over 35 yrs and have a quad and a fleet of competition race bikes (run/own a junior motocross team) and have found the method I mentioned it the absolute best way to "pickle" a quad over the winter.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 7 Oct 2012 04:28pm
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Quoting: larry i would agree with the advice i have read here except for one thing, the draining of the carb and leaving fuel turned off. the reason i say this is i have had atvs, jet skis and sleds. every time i had a carb problem come time to use the toy is when i had the fuel turned off during storage. from issues like needle and seat not sealing, gaskets drying out and leaking and even corrosion in the float bowl that plugged an idle circuit in the carb. now i open the plug in the bottom of the carb to drain any water or debris and leave fuel on during the off season and have yet to have a carb problem.
Perfect advise. But the newer quad fuel valves turn on when the engine starts from a manifold vacuum. He will have to leave it in the "prime" mode or "P". Or just turn it on once a month for a few minutes to make sure fuel bowl remains full of fuel.
If its left on and there is a small dribble of fuel, it will run into the cylinder, past the rings and end up in the oil. Check the oil level if you do this in the spring before start up. If it is overfull and you start it, you will get foaming out out the crankcase breather/vent tube. If the level is OK, go play!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 7 Oct 2012 04:32pm
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I might add, its best to store it with fresh oil, so do an oil change before storage, not in the spring before riding season.
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TheCabinCalls
Member
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# Posted: 8 Oct 2012 09:27am
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Hate to throw another question in the mix, but would this also apply to a 2 cycle Outboard Boat Motor?
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wakeslayer
Member
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# Posted: 8 Oct 2012 03:17pm
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toyota, totally off topic, but noticed your comment on owning a jr MC team.
I had a Honda CRF150R bike that I raced on the the ice for a couple years. If I let that thing sit for more than two weeks, the gas went to crap everytime. It took me MANY kickstart sessions to figure this out and just drain the carb. This was all four seasons, indoors, outdoors, everything. I have had many ATV's dirtbikes, streetbikes, boats, and never ever had one that sensitive. Was it just the nature of the beast in a high perf race bike carb? I want to say it was a Mikuni, but not certain.
It is irrelevant as i no longer have the bike, but I could never figure that machines sensitivity out...
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 8 Oct 2012 10:36pm
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Is this a 2s or 4s ATV? Also, are you in an area with ethanol? If so 91/87 will loose 1 octane per month while sitting. I drain my sleds to having only 2 gal in them with Stabil marine (blue stuff) and run the them till warm to get the treatment in the carbs. I go through my carbs every season anyway. Then out of storage, I suck all the gas out of the tank and add new, then do the carbs. I don't like empty fuel lines, carbs, tank because things dry out. I also run Stabil marine all season long
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TheCabinCalls
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2012 08:16am
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BTW- I found stabil marine at Ace Hardware online for half the price. I called Overtons and they matched it and gave me free shipping.
I am still wondering if I am better off draining a 2 cycle boat motor or leaving something in the line?
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