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ICC
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2024 12:50am - Edited by: ICC
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This week we hit a milestone of sorts. 261,000 miles. To "celebrate" I made a decision that will extend its life. And yes, it did cost some serious money, but the truck just keeps on going. Plus the $$Prices of a newer replacement Tacoma is bonkers. And there is no question about switching to any other brand.
So today we replaced the front left and right side axle and CV assemblies, plus the front wheel bearings. The noises and vibrations are now gone, along with about $1K for parts. Amazing how quiet and smooth it drives again. Last year we replaced some worn front-end suspension components, lower arms, shocks, and so on.
Soon we'll check the valve lash clearances as suggested by toyota_mdt_tech.
It doesn't look all spiffy and shiny. The paint clear coat is shot but that is only cosmetic and removes the concern of scratching the paint of a newer, shinier truck. Many of the mountain roads around here are overgrown. The sheet metal is all straight though, and everything else still functions.
I had help from a mechanic nephew.
CV boots were all cracked...
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2024 01:01am
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You chose wisely 
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2024 12:28pm
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Quoting: ICC Soon we'll check the valve lash clearances as suggested by toyota_mdt_tech.
Yes, you will find the exhaust getting tight, the intake will be perfect. Measure it stone cold. Specs should be on the hood, get 2 feeler blades out, one at minimum, other .001 above max, so thinner one should go, thicker one, not.
On TDC #1, you can measure 1 and 2 intake and 1 and 3 exhaust, half the valve train. Roll crank 360 degrees, check remainder, ie 3 and 4 intake and 2 and 4 exhaust.
The exhaust will work themselves tighter. You will find intake will all be perfect. This is from the smaller and hotter running valves wearing at the valve face.
You have 4 valves per cylinder. Map out tight ones, also map out their clearances, with a little match with the specs, you find out how many thousanths thinner your shim needs to be, remove old shim (above bucket) and slide in new one.
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drb777
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2024 01:35pm
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'Been a Tacoma fan since '91 (pre-Tacoma badge). Now on my 4th in a row. And I still use my 2nd gen '12 nearly every day (but my 180K can't touch your 261K). The only wear-out repair was for a drive shaft carrier bearing at 175K (the rubber gets hard & brittle after 12 yr.).
You're certainly on the right track keeping your 2nd gen, the new 2024 4th gen's will never hold-up like the much less complex previous years. Too bad the mileage on the V6's isn't great, but they're almost bullet-proof when well-maintained. Cheers.
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Tim_Ohio
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2024 05:43pm
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I ran a new 2003 Celica to 230K before selling it. It was a 5 spd and never needed a clutch. I changed the oil every 3K miles using standard oil. It never used any oil. When I sold it, the valves chattered pretty good before it warmed up. The only other thing was the cruise control stopped working. This was the least troubling automobile I've ever owned.
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ICC
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2024 10:15pm - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech Attached file: INSP__Copy.pdf
Thank you for that! It's the same idea as the shims used on the Ducati bike engine. Except there are many more valves
I suppose the shims are available as individual units? Or an assortment? I haven't checked with NAPA for availability. The nearest Toyota dealer is several hours away. This may be a job spread over a few days if we need to order some shims. No big deal.
Thanks again.
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ICC
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2024 11:21pm
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Off the wall question/thought....
After checking all the clearances and miking the existing shims, would it be okay to move any to a different position if the math worked out that way?
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2024 11:35pm
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That's my thinking
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Brettny
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2024 10:09am
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ICC not only are the newer Tacoma's expensive there also quite a bit bigger and bot really the same truck any more. Theres so much plastic and electronic pieces in newer vehicles in general the cost to drive them to 200k+ I'm sure has gone way up.
Have you done a timing chain/belt?
My first vehicle was a 1995 toyota pickup 22re, 4x4 5spd. Totally bullet proof unless you where a 17yr old kid. I owned a 84 4runner after that.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2024 12:20pm
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Quoting: ICC Off the wall question/thought.... After checking all the clearances and miking the existing shims, would it be okay to move any to a different position if the math worked out that way?
Absolutely, do it all the time. You will find in the end, you may need to buy 2 maybe 3 shims.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2024 12:27pm
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Quoting: Brettny Have you done a timing chain/belt?
He has the 2/3RZ engine family, his being the 3RZ, 2.7 liter and we have NEVER done a timing chain set on those.
The 22R/E was common, guide breaks, starts to eat into cover.
Toyotas most reliable engines is the Previa engine (2RZ laid on its side) 4AF, 7AF series, the Tacoma 2 and 3RZ, Tundra 4.7V8 and Tacoma 3.4V6
Only picture I can find of my truck, ironic, I am at the lake just above my cabin property.
98 TRD off road, 5 spd, bought new for 22K (employee cost) and sold in 2013 with 58K miles, blue book was 7600, sold it for $13,500.
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Desim
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2024 03:09pm
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I have never owned a Tacoma but it is #2 in my book and probably more reliable than Ford in general.
Still running my 98 F150. that has almost 300k, gets 19 to 21mpg and is all stock except for control arms, alternate and fuel pump. Been pretty standard for me and Ford, previous ford with 300 straight was legendary! Though this one is working on it.
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paulz
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2024 05:11pm - Edited by: paulz
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Quoting: Desim Still running my 98 F150. that has almost 300k, gets 19 to 21mpg and
Wow that’s great! My ‘99 Ranger only gets 13-14 (4.2, don’t expect over 15 I’ve heard).. Now that it’s done leaking (both my fault) it’s back on the pavers and my old Blazer is down in the backup spot. It’s likely a ‘forever’ for me too. So simple, solid axle front (locking hubs) carburetor, hydraulic lifters, no computer, no sensors..not much worse mileage than the Ranger.
I did have a couple of Toyota street cars way back before I got the property, a Celia and Corolla. Utterly reliable as others have said. I’m still planning on getting a quote to pave my driveway, if that happens I’ll be kissing the gas hogs goodbye, at least for cabin commute.
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