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Small Cabin Forum / Off Topic / Dirt Cheap Oscilloscope
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paulz
Member
# Posted: 15 Dec 2021 08:46am
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Good idea, I'll do that. I did attempt to order the $27 spark box linked above, out of stock until after Christmas, they say.

paulz
Member
# Posted: 16 Dec 2021 05:17pm
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OK I checked the connections, all OK. And then... I pulled the CDI out, which was obscured by the chassis. Hard to get a good look in these pics but the big capacitor looks like it's blown out at the top. Also the side is a bubbly flat black unlike the shiny smooth others. I may be able to get the numbers off it and try digging it out, if it's worth doing. Otherwise I should get a new unit.

The Meanwell power supply I was using with it draws 11 amps, at full power I guess, over the 1000 watts the genny is rated for, but that should have just thrown the breaker. I don't see how that would affect the ignition system. Anyway this looks like the problem, or at least part of it.
20211216_133945.jpg
20211216_133945.jpg
20211216_133709.jpg
20211216_133709.jpg


gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 16 Dec 2021 07:53pm
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Looks like the culprit.
Maybe the full speed it had to run for how long just fried it?

travellerw
Member
# Posted: 16 Dec 2021 11:34pm
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LOL.. Ah the SheetStains...

If you have the skills and equipment.. You could try replacing just that cap.. but it would just be for fun and giggles.. I'm guessing when it blew it may have damaged some other components in the trigger circuit (buried in that potting epoxy). I give a %60 chance that replacing just the cap will fix it! Might be worth it as caps are like $0.40!

Even if you just replace the whole CDI, I would love it if you dug that cap out so we could see the brand. I'm betting an offbrand like XCap!

P.S. if you replace the cap, you need to epoxy the new one down so you don't get a fracture failure in the future!

paulz
Member
# Posted: 17 Dec 2021 09:43am
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You're right, the only listed replacement is with Generator Guru, about 80 bucks with tax and shipping. This generator is no spring chicken, and the Sportsman 1000i I just bought on sale was under $200. There are CDI that look the same for similar cheapy generators (Champion, Kipor) for about half that, but a crap shoot if they would work.

I do have here a CDI off a little dirt bike, just like this, looks like I could wire it up and see if I get spark. Wouldn't have all the connections for the inverter, if that matters.
cd.JPG
cd.JPG


travellerw
Member
# Posted: 17 Dec 2021 10:18am
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Quoting: paulz
I do have here a CDI off a little dirt bike, just like this, looks like I could wire it up and see if I get spark. Wouldn't have all the connections for the inverter, if that matters.


I would probably try the capacitor replacement first. Dig the old cap out so you can get the values. Heat from a micro-torch will soften that potting epoxy. Every town has an electronics shop, I bet you can get a single replacement cap for like $2 (they would be like $0.40 if you buy 10 or more @ Digikey). Ensure you get a 105C rated cap and a good brand like Nichicon or Panasonic. If the repair works, those caps will outlast the motor!


You could try the other CDI, but only if you are OK blowing it up. Its possible that it was designed for a different "exciter" winding and the one in the generator will kill it. However, those little dirt bike CDIs are only like $10 on ebay, so maybe worth it!

paulz
Member
# Posted: 17 Dec 2021 12:22pm
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Thanks, the cap came out easily with a heat gun and razor knife. It doesn't look at bad as I thought, it was mostly the plastic covering it, but it does have a nick at the top and a dent at the bottom that I don't think I caused. I guess the next step is to clip it out and test, any idea how? No specs, just a silver can.

Can't find that dirt bike CDI. It was a few years ago I fixed the kid's bike. I think I kept it, was a bad connection or something, but if I haven't laid eyes on anything in my shop in the last month all bets are off.

The new generator arrives Monday after Christmas, if I don't get this going by then it'll be spare parts..
20211217_0904551.j.jpg
20211217_0904551.j.jpg


travellerw
Member
# Posted: 17 Dec 2021 03:21pm
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Quoting: paulz
No specs, just a silver can.


Unfortunately all the specs were on the black outer shrink sleeve.. See if you can't hold it to the light and make it out. Your looking for V and farad (looks like 1000-1500 based on size).

As to testing, they make a capacitance tester, but some multimeters can do it too. If you don't have the equipment to test it, then I would just replace it and see what happens!

paulz
Member
# Posted: 17 Dec 2021 03:48pm
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The numbers that were on the outside I looked over pretty well and took a pic, DL (VM) 105C is all it said.

I have a very good DVM, I'll see what it says for cap testing.

Ordered one of those 5 pin CDIs, $6 shipped, from US! Not a bad thing to have around anyway. Course I won't be able to find it next time.
dl.JPG
dl.JPG


paulz
Member
# Posted: 17 Dec 2021 04:21pm
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Do I need to remove it to test? When I try it in place the readout goes from 0000 to blank, either direction. At one point it read 29 briefly, I think, but now nothing.
cap.JPG
cap.JPG


travellerw
Member
# Posted: 17 Dec 2021 11:52pm
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Quoting: paulz

Do I need to remove it to test? When I try it in place the readout goes from 0000 to blank, either direction. At one point it read 29 briefly, I think, but now nothing.



Yes.. Cap testing in place is not reliable (usually)..

paulz
Member
# Posted: 18 Dec 2021 11:33am - Edited by: paulz
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OK I clipped it out, and figured out why the meter goes blank, it's setting the range. Then it gives the value. Funny that's not in the instructions, I had to read up oniine. I'm getting 1.1 mf in one direction, 000 in the other. Good, bad?

I'm glad to finally use this multi meter. I bought it awhile ago hoping to do non-contact DC voltage, which it does not do and I'm not sure that is even possible. Good to know I can use it for something. Also glad to be furthering my electronics education a little. Thanks again.

paulz
Member
# Posted: 29 Dec 2021 01:41pm
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Quoting: travellerw
Unfortunately each pulser coil is made a little differently. The ones I'm familiar with have about 147 ohms of resistance.. but I would say 100 ohms is probably ok. They really just send a trigger pulse to the CDI so it dumps a pulse into the main coil at the right time.


The little $6 mini bike CDI showed up, I jumpered it in in place of the other one, no love. Bummer.

So I've been testing the pulser and exciter coils. The pulser has 95 ohms, and spinning the engine over with an electric drill puts out about 2.5 vdc.

The exciter coil has .5 ohms, which is in spec according to some things I found online, but spinning with a drill only getting about 8vdc. I've read in a couple of places that it should be upwards of 50. It's only one coil winding of the stator I believe, hard to believe it could put out that much. No published specs for this generator so I'm just going by Eu100i and mini bike specs as I find them.

So for the moment, still stuck..

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