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rockies
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2018 19:12
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Check out the links at the bottom of the article as well.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2018/02/27/building-survive-wildfire-country?source=w 20001en&tp=i-H43-BC-7VR-NDlzp-1o-7GWL-1c-NDogK-1F0EAH&sourcekey=w20001en&utm_campaign =fine-homebuilding-eletter&utm_source=eletter&utm_medium=eletter&utm_content=fhb_elet ter&cid=28857&mid=343138493
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2018 17:12
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Gravel doesn't burn. I am opening a large swath still (have been already) and graveling it. I am taking other measures too for blowing embers/sparks.
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rockies
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2018 19:18
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It seems to be the blowing embers that cause the worst destruction, which was not what I expected. According to firefighters they can travel over a mile ahead of the fire front and get sucked into wall, attic or crawlspace vents.
There are some specialty vent products on the market designed to prevent that. They also do a good job of stopping fire from entering the building if the fire is right up against the wall.
http://www.vulcantechnologies.com/allProducts.php
The other thing is, a lot of people think that by putting a metal standing seam roof on their cabin that they've eliminated a lot of the danger. A wildfire can still get hot enough to set the roof sheathing on fire so you should also use a fire resistant underlayment.
http://www.gaf.ca/Roofing/Residential/Products/Roof_Deck_Protection/VersaShield_UL_Fi re_Barrier
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2018 22:20 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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I have also trimmed my porch with cement board, this is the trim at the wall, blowing embers roll up agasint the wall. I have fire resistant vents in my container gables. Do not on my cabin. I can either install a metal baffle in front of it.
Also, trim on the wall, ie a belt molding or molding around windows, the top should be beveled at a 45 degree angle, and if you have T1-11, seal the grooves with the pink sealer (fire stuff) and hardi-soffit for under the eaves. I am clearing back my forest far enough, all trees left standing needs to have all lower branches trimmed off to the 10 foot mark.
I have ordered a large DR chipper, arrives this month, all for clearing timber way back, leaving bigger stuff, but clearing and grinding branches up. I also have the extended rotatable chute to keep chips scattered vs in one large pile. I will keep pine grass trimmed down with a weedwacker.
I have a full footing/stemwall foundation, also a huge plus for fires and no longer store firewood on my porch or under my porch. In fact, its all kept a way away.
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Bushwhacked
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# Posted: 7 Mar 2018 23:35
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech I have ordered a large DR chipper, arrives this month,
Let us know how you like it. I was looking at getting one used. DR stuff sometimes seems cheesy, but I have heard a couple of good things about their chippers.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 8 Mar 2018 00:03
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Quoting: Bushwhacked Let us know how you like it. I was looking at getting one used. DR stuff sometimes seems cheesy, but I have heard a couple of good things about their chippers.
I am getting the 16.5 (about 20HP) chipper (not chipper/shredder) and they were the best around without going commercial which was super spendy. I got the extended discharge chute and 2 extra knives. I could not find another mfg of it that made one that big that wasnt commercial, ie eager beaver, vermeer. The wallensteins of the same rating was 12K, mine was a smidge over 3K
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