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bobbotron
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2012 03:09pm
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Hey all,
I want to buy a sharpener for my new chainsaw (a mid sized STIHL). I'll probably pick one up at lee valley. I'm considering both their "Deluxe Chain-Saw Sharpener" and the "Hand Crank Chain Saw sharpener". The later looks really quite great, but is more than twice the price of the former. I think I'll get the deluxe one, was just wondering if anyone had thoughts on either one.
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rayyy
Member
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2012 04:42pm
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Electric sharpeners sure beat an old hand file sharpening!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2012 04:44pm
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Not familiar with those. I have a Noerthrn Tool electric grinder sharpener at the cabin that is pretty good, but not as nicely made as the oregon I have at home.
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fpw
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2012 04:47pm - Edited by: fpw
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I sharpen many chains. I've found just a file works the best. I haven't had much luck with sharpeners (slow and cumbersome). If I rock up a chain really bad, I bring it the shop and have it reground, otherwise it is just a file.
If you want to get the feel for how to sharpen, this little guide works pretty well.
https://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=32959&cat=1,43072,43086&ap=1
If you want to be able to regrind your own chains, I would invest in an electric grinder.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2012 06:21pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Dont overlook the rake or depth gauge. Its the part that leads the cutter bit. You want chips between .025-.030 thick, so the rake needs to be set .025" lower than the cutter. The cutter is angled, so as you sharpen it, it gets lower. Unless you adjust the rake, no way will it cut well no matter how sharp it is as the chain wears down. You can tell by the size of your chips.
I use only the "full competition super chisel bits", these are pro chains, available only at a saw shop and not the safety chain type. If you get safety chain, the safety links needs to be ground down with the rake also.
I do mine by hand. Avoid all rocks etc. If you gouge a tooth, you must file it all the way clear then match the rest just like it to make it perform well.
I hand file mine using a flat file guide. A sharp full competition chisel bit will send you to the hospital so fast if you rake up against it, fall on it, kicks back and hit you. Upside, it goes through he wood like its butter, huge chips and little effort on the operator.
I use the square tooth, round grind.
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_teeth_types.htm
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bobbotron
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 09:21am
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Thanks, yeah, I've read you need to file down the chip clearing part of the chain as well. I have a safety chain on mine, cuts plenty fast for my purposes and I'm still fairly new to chain saws.
Been seriously making some firewood from this saw, love it.
I have some sharpening and metal working experience from other hobbies. I realize I might be able to free hand it, but seems like a guide would be a handy tool to keep myself from learning bad chain sharpening habits/angles.
I try to avoid rock environments, I can imagine it it'd do terrible things to a chain!
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fpw
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 11:20am - Edited by: fpw
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Safety chains are designed to miminize the likeylood of kickback. If the saw kicks back safety chain or no, you can get cut. Control of the saw is the responsability of the person running the saw, not the chain type. I don't cut without hardhat, Kevlar Boots, and chainsaw chaps.
With a safety chain the rakes are larger and extended (links), so it makes filing them down a pain in the tail. As toyota_mdt_tech indicated, rake height is important. If you are cutting and making sawdust instead of chips, your rake height is too high and needs to be filed (I don't use a gage, I just file the rakes a couple of strokes with a flat file, every other day or so).
If you are cutting smaller things, safety chain works well. As you get into felling trees, cutting bigger wood, or cutting firewood all day, you will find that a full chiesel chain works better. And, square ground chain cuts like a beaver on steriods (however, filing square ground is an art all its own).
Filing a chain takes some practice, but it isn't hard. To start with, just use the angle marked on the cutter. It is a little easier to learn if you can find someone to show you. After you master this, generally, you can hand file a chain quite quickly. It is important cause if your cutting for any length of time you will need to file the chain in the field. When cutting I have a number of spare chains. Normally, I just touch up the filing every time I fill the saw with gas. If I rock up the chain (which you will, as it don't take much get into a little of the ground when you are cutting a log). I change it out and file it later.
A full chisel chain can be purchased at any place the sells saw (i.e. Mendards, Northern Tool, etc). Just read the package. New saws sold in this type of store are sold with safety chain. Same for a saw shop, unless you tell them to change it out.
For log building, I actually like the safety chain for brushing out and cleaning up the notches, it works well. But of ripping lateral grooves, safety chain would make that job twice as long. Hence, on the work site I end up with multiple saws.
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bobbotron
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 11:29am
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I agree with respect to chainsaw safety, I definitely work safe at all times, and don't think my safety chain will protect me from getting cut. Safe work practices keep you from getting cut!
Saw cutting speed has never been a problem for me, so I think I'll stick with the safety chain.
Thanks guys, I'm going to get the cheaper sharpener and give it a go. 
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 12:04pm
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I sharpen chains for a local saw shop. I myself file my own. Stone grinding causes heat and takes the temper out of the cutting edge. Most customers don't notice. I do. Also I never remove a chain to sharpen on my own saw. If cutting speed is not a concern get a smaller saw and sharpen well.
Owen
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bobbotron
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 12:49pm
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Quoting: OwenChristensen I sharpen chains for a local saw shop. I myself file my own. Stone grinding causes heat and takes the temper out of the cutting edge. Most customers don't notice. I do. Also I never remove a chain to sharpen on my own saw. If cutting speed is not a concern get a smaller saw and sharpen well.
Yeah, I wouldn't use power sharpeners for my wood working tools for the same issue of loss of temperament, not too keen to do so for my chain either.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 01:00pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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It's not impossible to machine sharpen without damage. My saw chain teeth never go blue as some of the shops turn out. Same thing with wood chisel sharpening, etc. The right machine with the right technique delivers excellent results. Hand sharpening is always an option and is used by most. To each his/her own. Cost of the machine may be a factor to some. I do like my machines 
... a very nice edged tool sharpener
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17398&site=ROCKLER
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 01:30pm
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fpw, perfect post. I also do the rake by eye, I do have a tool, it just sets over the cutter with a groove where the rake protrudes through. You file it a few times till it no longer protrudes through.
I do not use skip tooth or semi skipp tooth. I like all cutters. If you never rock it, then a single light pressure stroke on each tooth (using a file guide) is all you need to keep it at max cutting.
I grew up in a small northwest logging town. Moved away, not real far, still have it in my blood. Even if I am a dealer tech wrenching on cars.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 01:57pm - Edited by: TomChum
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I would think...... that if you use an electric sharpener you would use up your chain teeth faster. Also note that the deeper you grind the tooth, you have to file or grind down the 'depth control' tooth too. If you just do one or 2 strokes with a hand file you can ignore depth control until your sharp chain doesn't perform (chips coming out are too small). I use a file guide when I have it with me or just the round file by itself other times. I try to get-r-sharp with just one or two strokes, so as not to use up the chain so fast.
For my situation it would entail a generator, extension cord, lots of hassle, so I've never given an electric sharpener much thought. If your saw has a fairly short bar (<20 in) I would think the time spent dealing with the device, getting it out, putting it away etc, you'd be almost done with the file by then.
======== for the new chainsaw user ======
As a new chainsaw user it's worthy to fully understand what causes chainsaw kickback. It's the teeth at the tip, (not cutting, but just digging into the wood) engaging the wood, and walking the tip up and back at you. Coming at you at chain speed!
Here's a good short vid (and there are more). Watch several of them. Note that the 'inertia' of the chain brake handle can 'set the lock' in some cases but not all cases.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoyyjuG0K-A
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Cooks Dock
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 02:01pm
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I always found the 10 minute file touchup to be a nice break. Takes away fatigue and gives me a water break ( both in and out)
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BoatMan
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 10:15pm
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I use a file with an angle guide.
I hit LOTS of rocks, as I am cutting small trees as close to the ground as I can, in very rocky conditions. I buy the cheapest chains I can find and pretty-much consider them disposable. I just installed a new chain on my primary saw- old chain lasted just (2) weekends of brush clearing. I got into old fence wire with it twice while dismantling an old bulldozed pile of logs, and hit well over a dozen rocks (hard to see when you're working in heavy brush) It had a number of teeth badly gouged.
I always have spare chains, a spare bar, and even spare chainsaws when I am out clearing. Too long of a drive to not get the work done due to equipment problems.
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TomChum
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2012 11:09pm
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......a spare bar & chain is handy for when you get your saw pinched!
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OwenChristensen
Member
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2012 12:51pm - Edited by: OwenChristensen
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I hear you there Tom.
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TomChum
Member
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2012 02:53pm - Edited by: TomChum
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Yup Owen, or a spare saw....
Quoting: bobbotron Yeah, I wouldn't use power sharpeners for my wood working tools for the same issue of loss of temperament, not too keen to do so for my chain either.
Wood working tools are high-carbon steel (tool steel). Yes you are wise to avoid any hi-speed grinding or anything that makes sparks is overheating that crucial; microscopic edge. Saw chain however, is mild steel, thus it can't have any temper, or lose any either. With saw-chain the only temperament that can be changed is of the  person who who keeps hitting   rocks. 
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2012 01:58am
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OK, Tom Chum just made this web site sooo worth the price of admission!
Why have I used a chainsaw for three years, been stuck a couple of times and not thought "spare bar" I have spare chains, but have gone off to rummage another saw from a neighbor.
I'm feeling both dumb and enlightened!
Thanks!
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fpw
Member
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2012 06:54pm
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It is possible to get 3 saws stuck in a tree. And, then have to chop it down with an ax. Glad no one had a camera that day.
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BoatMan
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2012 07:23pm
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"..It is possible to get 3 saws stuck in a tree. And, then have to chop it down with an ax. Glad no one had a camera that day.."
I usually have (3) saws.
And I also have an ax with me.
Have used the ax only once- when the chain went dull and started burning wood about 3/4 way through the last tree to cut that day.
I finished the job with the ax, and went home.
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EvoQ
Member
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# Posted: 10 Dec 2012 05:37am
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I'm with the other guys that just like the old fashioned way, A Hand File works best for me.
It will take you an time or 2 to perfect the angle and depth but it is not a hard thing at all. One these round files can be had for mere $dollars is allot cheaper than the electric thing-a ma-bob..lol..when you get proficient with the hand file you can knock out a chain in no time flat.
I guess for me it goes back to not having to depend on electricity to cure my every need. When I do any cutting I always carry the file out with me, and when I am done I make sure to sharpen up the chain and spray a coat of wd40 or similar lubricant, nothing thick but thin light weight oil.
Great way to keep a chain sharp is to never cut into the ground, and not to overheat the chain either. Heat creates allot of friction, and friction kills the chain sharpness asap.
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bobbotron
Member
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# Posted: 11 Dec 2012 02:07pm
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I ended up buying the deluxe sharpener. Had a go at it once so far, the results were far from great, define a little learning curve to the jig, the damn chain didn't want to play nice with it. I can see how just hand filing it would be a good way to go when you get used to it. I'm going to give the sharpener a few more tries, but my first impression of it was holy figgity.
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Mindrasect
Member
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# Posted: 20 May 2019 06:59am
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I don't know much about your options but I recently purchase CO-Z Electric Chainsaw from a site and it comes with two blades. I think this is the best.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 21 May 2019 08:45am - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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I have never gotten "blades" fro my chain saw. I do, however have spare bars and chains. Oh wait, I do have a log wizard on the end of one saw, and it does have 2 blades. Actual planer blades.
Above post is a spammer
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KelVarnsen
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# Posted: 21 May 2019 10:06am - Edited by: KelVarnsen
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Quoting: fpw rake height is important. If you are cutting and making sawdust instead of chips, your rake height is too high and needs to be filed
I actually use this Stihl sharpener and it works great. It takes down the rake height at the same at the same time a sharpening the cutters. Video demo.
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RiverCabin
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# Posted: 21 May 2019 05:03pm
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Quoting: KelVarnsen I actually use this Stihl sharpener and it works great. It takes down the rake height at the same at the same time a sharpening the cutters. Video demo.
Me too. It works great and is can easily give you a touch up in the woods unlike most electric sharpeners.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 22 May 2019 08:31am
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The 2n1 sharpeners work well if you have a full comp chain. Half skip or full skip chains they wont work. I mostly hand file but if i get a really messed up chain i have a grandberg precision grinder.
What ever you get make sure you take down the rakers. Not doing this will make your sharp chain not cut.
I have used many electric grinders but most take away to much of the tooth and hitting the chain with a hand file every tank of fuel is easy and can really help.
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littlesalmon4
Member
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# Posted: 22 May 2019 12:03pm
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This is the sharpener I use. Not cheap but if file sharpening is a challenge then this works awesome.
https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/
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stevemacre1
Member
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# Posted: 29 May 2019 06:08am - Edited by: stevemacre1
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Quoting: OwenChristensen I sharpen chains for a local saw shop. I myself file my own. Stone grinding causes heat and takes the temper out of the cutting edge. Most customers don't notice. I do. Also I never remove a chain to sharpen on my own saw. If cutting speed is not a concern get a smaller saw and sharpen well.
Keeping a cutting tool's cutters sharp not just enables cut through wood to better, it's additionally more secure. The chain is less inclined to pop free, the saw does not tie as effectively, and the bar is less able to kick back. Experienced sharpeners regularly object freehand, with the record edge coordinated to the shaper by eye. Cutting edges differ from around 25 degrees to around 35 degrees to the line of the chain; the pitch of the document ought to associate with 5 degrees from level. Buy a honing unit to remove all the mystery from coordinating shaper points.
https://www.consumersbase .com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/
Pick a honing unit that is explicitly intended to work with your cutting apparatus make and model. The pack commonly incorporates an adjusted and a level record, just as a guide for keeping the documents at the right point. All inclusive aides are scratched with lines that inexact generally edges. A profundity measure is either part of the guide or included independently.
Force the flash fitting wire off of the sparkle plug. This guarantees the saw can't begin unintentionally while you're taking a shot at it.
Clasp the cutting apparatus bar into a bad habit mounted on a workbench. You can wipe out this progression in the event that you don't have a bad habit convenient -, for example, when honing the found in the field - however the bad habit helps hold the saw stationary while keeping two hands free for honing.
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