|
Author |
Message |
Sprinkler Guy
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Oct 2019 21:05
Reply
Got the bathroom 90% done this weekend. Still needs the vinyl floor and a little trim. This is the same bathroom with green roof panel shower For those who saw my other post. 1CEB67FDD8A24FD9B.jpeg
| 00BFDF3A548C49A9B.jpeg
| C6C32754FD724C2BB.jpeg
| |
|
|
Sprinkler Guy
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Oct 2019 21:06
Reply
Sorry for the sideways pics. The are normal on my phone I swear.
|
|
aktundra
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Oct 2019 14:25
Reply
Looks good Sprinkler Guy! Is the wife happy now
What are you using for water heater and storage?
|
|
Sprinkler Guy
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Oct 2019 16:21
Reply
Thanks, She likes it! I have a 19 gallon electric water heater and a well.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Oct 2019 07:29
Reply
Is that wood sealed? If the grain is still open thats going to be a breeding ground for mold.
|
|
Sprinkler Guy
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Oct 2019 08:31 - Edited by: Sprinkler Guy
Reply
Not yet, but the next trip up to cabin after I finish the trim I will seal it with something. Any product suggestions?
|
|
Steve_S
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Oct 2019 09:08
Reply
Looking really good there !
As you saw from my washroom photo in your other thread, my ceilings are T&G Pine, Bath Floor Pedestal is White Cedar along with trims and edges, and more wood everywhere.... I hate drywall, Melamine and all synthetics... urethane is really the only good material to use where there will be any humidity buildup like a washroom.
I have actually grown quite fond of Beauti-Tone Clear Semi-gloss Fast Dry Urethane from Home Hardware, as it only needs 2 hours and a light scuff between coats with 3 coats being optimal. (it's water based and sets really hard in 3 days)
Alternately, I used an Oil Based Urethane on other parts from Minwax which is fast dry (but 7 hours between coats) that also works really well. It brings out colours & goes deeper into most woods but it has a yellowish tinge which in most cases is moot (unless using on a very pale wood like Aspen (I built all my kitchen cupboards with 3/4" PureBond aspen Ply {no formaldahydes or other noxious stuff}) and so I learned the hard way. I did all my kitchen cabinets with the Oil Based harder stuff and the doors with the Beauti-Tone as that is 7/8" Milled local pine with rough face.
I would also mention, that I used approximately 6 gallons of Zinsser Shellac for all my T&G Ceilings, wood beams & upper trims all around the cabin. I chose this because it dries within 20 minutes and seals well and non-toxic, which with 3 coats made a wonderful deep finish on the rough cut woods. It is however not very good in damp areas and cannot be top coated with urethanes and last of all, extremely expensive @ $75 a can (on sale). Certainly not for use in a Washroom or Kitchen.
A quick tip on between coat sanding's, I found that using the 120 & 140 grit sanding blocks (foam sponge) using very light and easy pressure just enough to knock down bubbles & peaks [provide the best results, just before the last coat, a quick scuff with 180 will give a very smooth finish. I used mini speed rollers (not foam too many bubbles) and no problem at all... just use a fresh roller for each coat.
Hope that helps, Good Luck.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Oct 2019 08:42
Reply
Personaly if i was to use wood in a bathroombi would have sealed it before and after i put it up. All sides before being put up, then a top coat after. Your going to have areas you csnt get to now.
My preference would be drywall and if you want wood put some stained trim up.
|
|
|