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Small Cabin Forum / Member's Projects and Photos / shed to cabin conversion
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Mzmizery
Member
# Posted: 11 Dec 2016 11:42pm
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16x30 Graceland with raised loft walls, utility room addition, Pella windows, pantry, storage and closet under stairs. Bed and bath framed in, wiring complete, just finished insulating the walls. Plumbing by the 1st. Got a great sale on R-13 fiberglass and wanted opinions if this could be used in the roof. They are 24's so I would have to cut and tape. I have a ridge vents, heat barrier and board insulation under roof. These were $11 a roll compared to $60 a roll for the r-19.
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Steve_S
Member
# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 06:44am
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Looking Good and almost there, excitement must be building

You have not mentioned your location which would certainly have an effect on how much insulation you need / will want and if this will be a FT Cabin or a weekender. The roof is where you will lose most of your heat in winter and gain most in summer. The better the insulation the better on your comfort. In my area I don't think you can even buy R13 anymore (NE Ontario Canada). I would suggest you get the most insulation (R-Value) you can in your roof. You cannot compress "stuff" fiberglass in the space, compression reduces it's effectiveness and lower's the R Value. It all depends on how much space in inches you have from the baffles to the edge of the rafter boards.

You can fill the space with f-glass between the rafters then add a layer of 1" foam and clad it with drywall or whatever your using, there are many options but more info would be required to make better suggestions.

- How deep are the rafter bays from the edge to the baffles ?
- How thick & what R-value is the foam board you have against the sheathing ? (type of foam too - makes a difference)

Gary O
Member
# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 07:05am
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whoa

n-i-c-e

I'm a sucker for French doors

Mzmizery
Member
# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 10:10am
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Ah yes, location. We are in central Alabama so we have shorter winters with temps dropping into 20's but rarely snowfall other than flurries although we have had over the past few years some accumulation which melted quickly. We are planning to live there fulltime. My husband is an o/o trucker and I ride fulltime so time is our biggest problem. I'm not sure of the spacing but judging on the thickness between the r13/r19 it looks like the 19 would be compressed. We are in a flood easement and aren't allowed to have foam board insulation because of the risk to the fish, but spray insulation will probably be our best option. Thanks for the input.

Mzmizery
Member
# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 10:14am
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I too love French doors, but in order to save space we actually ordered this 5' sliding glass with the look of French doors. We also are doing sliding barn style for the bedroom and bathroom to alleviate door swinging in.
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bldginsp
Member
# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 10:34am
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Did you mean that you have additional insulation above the 2x4 bays, on the roof plywood? If you do, you should be able to fill the bays with R13 with no ventilation in the bays. But in most cases, it's really important to ventilate above the topmost insulation to prevent condensed moisture collecting.

The only time you don't need to ventilate is when you use closed cell spray foam insulation. It doesn't let any moisture through it, so, theoretically, condensation cannot occur.

If you don't have additional insulation above the bays, and you filled them with R13 with no ventilation above the insulation, you risk condensation and mold.

Mzmizery
Member
# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 10:53am
Reply 


Yes we have a ridge vents, a soffit vent, heat barrier roof sheathing and 1/2" insulation under the roof, also house wrap under siding. I think I Should be more worried about air conditioning LOL. Glad to hear that the r13 can be used as we have 20 rolls

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