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Cabinmonkey
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2016 12:02
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I am planning to build a 14x20 cabin for use as a cook house. The location is South-Central Georgia. There is no frost line, and wind speeds of 20+mph are very rare. The soil is 12-16 inches of topsoil with clay subsoil. It will be built on a slight slope, maybe 10 inches of drop every 10 feet. There are no construction codes in my county for non-residential structures.
I would like to have the cabin elevated 2' above ground level and open underneath. It will be a single story with no loft. I don't plan to insulate, since it will only be used for occasional family gatherings. The exterior walls will be 1" thick poplar board and batten, and the interior walls will be 3/4" poplar board and batten. I am not concerned about durability of the cabin beyond 30 years. I'm old and if I'm still around 30 years from now, I probably won't be using it anymore anyway.
The following is the current specs I plan to use for construction. I have absolutely no construction experience with anything larger than a doghouse, so please feel free to suggest corrections or changes to any of the specs that don't look right. I am sawing my own lumber with a portable sawmill so lumber costs are not a concern:
- 6x6 treated post foundation on concrete footing at all corners 2' deep to the ceiling. 6x6 post supports at the midpoints between corners and a 4x6 girder under the joists down the center of the 20' span supported at each end and midpoint by 6x6 2' deep on concrete footing.
- 2x6x14 floor joists 16"OC and 2x6 header. 23/32 T&G subfloor, no decision on floor covering yet.
- 2x6 wall framing, 8' interior walls
- 2x6 ceiling joists and rafters 24"OC with 3/12 roof pitch and shingle roof. 7/16 osb roof sheathing and 1x6 poplar ceiling.
The poplar has been cut and is air drying under a pole barn. I haven't started sawing the framing lumber yet, until I get some knowledgeable help from the members here. None of the lumber will be kiln dried unless I decide to go with hardwood flooring.
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azgreg
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2016 14:12
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Do you have any drawings of your plans?
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Cabinmonkey
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2016 14:43 - Edited by: Cabinmonkey
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Quoting: azgreg Do you have any drawings of your plans?
Just some rough sketches.
But it will look something like this.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2016 15:02
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If it has 14 ft. floor joists and you use no. 2 2 x 10s on 16 in centers you do not need the center beam or posts unless there are center roof supports holding up a ridge beam .
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Cabinmonkey
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2016 15:11
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Quoting: Just If it has 14 ft. floor joists and you use no. 2 2 x 10s on 16 in centers you do not need the center beam or posts unless there are center roof supports holding up a ridge beam .
That's the sort of input I'm looking for.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2016 16:55
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This style of roof built with prefab trusses is stronger and less likely to leak and cheaper than a add on porch .
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rockies
Member
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2016 20:35
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I thinking that you were planning on running a beam with posts down the center of the cabin along the 20 foot length?
I do agree with "Just" that by going to a 2x10 at 16" on center is a better floor system and you wouldn't need the beam in that position but I think you would still need a beam running ACROSS the cabin at the midway point ALONG the center of the 20 foot length. In effect you would be creating a 14' x 20' rectangle (made with the rim joists) with a beam dividing it into two 14' x 10' sections.
The reason for this is that 20' is a fairly long distance to span without a center beam and posts. The beam can sit up within the floor structure and the 2 x 10 joists can be at the same height.
I also think your roof rafters are under sized and over spaced. Someone might have to walk on that roof someday and 1/2 inch osb on 2 x 6 rafters at 24" on center is pretty minimal. I would go to 2x8 at 16 inch on center with 5/8 osb.
How are you installing the posts? Are they simply resting on concrete footings or are you using post anchors? You might want to add diagonal braces from the rim joist to the post (where it comes out of the ground) to prevent any sideways movement. Could you go to 8x8 posts?
I'm guessing you're doing a cathedral ceiling inside? If you do you won't have to vent it like an attic space so that would save a lot of work.
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Cabinmonkey
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# Posted: 9 Jun 2016 09:01
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Since I have a band sawmill, I could easily cut a 4x10x14 joist for the midpoint and add a center post.
Regarding rafters, my original plan was 2x8 with 16" centers, so I will return to that spec. It is starting to get hot down here in the Dirty South, so I was getting lazy and looking for ways to cut corners.
Posts will be resting on concrete footing buried 2' into the ground. I have considered bracing, and will if it doesn't seem stable without it.
I plan to have an 8' ceiling inside using 1X6 poplar boards edged at 45 degrees so they will overlap, but not so tight that air can't move through it. I was going to vent the attic with a roof ridge vent. The building will not be insulated nor will it have a vapor barrier, so I believe I will get plenty of ventilation. None of the lumber will be kiln dried, so I can't make it too airtight.
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Bevis
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# Posted: 9 Jun 2016 10:32
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I build a 12x12 Cook shed at my hunting camp. Its 2' off the ground. stick and frame built, with a 6x6 posts in the middle, and 4x4's on the corners. shed roof and screened windows.
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Big Ed
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2017 03:34
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A 3/12 roof is pretty flat.
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Cabinmonkey
Member
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2017 06:33
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Cabinmonkey
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Cabinmonkey
Member
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2017 06:41
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Quoting: Big Ed A 3/12 roof is pretty flat. 3/12 roof pitch
The project is completed now, I ended up going with a 4/12 pitch.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2017 06:47
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WOW, now That's what I call a Porch ! lotta room to sit under and relax and enough space to even tinker on things too in shade etc... Like It !
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Big Ed
Member
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2017 14:39
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Nice build.
Curious why so high off the ground?
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Cabinmonkey
Member
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# Posted: 4 Dec 2017 14:03 - Edited by: Cabinmonkey
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Quoting: Big Ed Curious why so high off the ground?
Siding is raw, untreated wood; I didn't want backsplash to cause it to discolor or rot. It also gave me the elevation to extend the porch out further. And, it is easier to get underneath to install plumbing.
Check out this link for build thread:
http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_7433_0.html
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2017 09:45
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Nice job!! Thought you had no construction experience? Looks pretty good for a rookie 
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Gary O
Member
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2017 10:10
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Quoting: Steve_S lotta room to sit under and relax and enough space to even tinker on things too in shade etc
My exact thoughts
very nice
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Cabinmonkey
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2017 17:13
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I learned most of it from watching Youtube videos.
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