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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 5 Apr 2016 04:39pm - Edited by: deercula
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I've taken the advice from members here, and others I have talked with, and decided to have a local Amish builder construct a 16 X 30 cabin for me.
The county considers anything less than 500 sq. ft. a shed. Basically anything goes. The Township is another story. I can build a "Seasonal Hunting Cabin" of 500 sq. ft. or less, without utilities, by simply geting a permit, paying the fee, and have at it. One inspection and done. Otherwise I need to go up to 900 sq. with a full blown well, septic, electric, with blue prints, poured footers, etc.. I can not justify that expense for a weekend, three season place.
After considering prebuilts from Ohio, PA, and NY, it seems the best way to go is built on site by an Amish fellow about 15 miles away.
This what we have developed so far:
12 sono-tube piers, 4 ft. deep (sorry Don). He has used these many times with no problems.
Insulation: floor r-26, walls r-19, roof r-30
12 ft. at the peek with 6/12 slope
steel roof, Everlast Omni series
2x8 door and window headers
tyvek moisture barrier
2x8 pt. floor joist
3/4" subfloor, laminate flooring
2x6 wall, 8 ft. height
6 ft. storage loft
5 ft. wide covered porch
2x10 roof structure
direct vent propane heater
(4) 3X4 windows, (2) 2X3 windows
36" steel entry door
6 ft. of upper and lower cabinets
double stainless sink
10 ft. of "L" shaped counter top
t & g pine interior walls and ceiling
And HATE ME FOR THIS...........STEEL SIDING! Yes, I know, this is sacrilegious to many here. I do love the look of log, rough hemlock, board and batton. BUT, I'm not getting any younger, and just do not want the constant battle against rot and pests. So I settled for pine tongue and groove inside to make it feel less like a warehouse and more like a cabin.
So I am on his to do list for "May or June". I can still make changes to this, so PLEASE let me know what you think!
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bobrok
Member
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# Posted: 5 Apr 2016 06:11pm
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Well, you can always paint the steel forest green.
I'm with you though on that part about NOT getting younger.
Wish they could work that out, don't you? 
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Wendigolake
Member
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# Posted: 5 Apr 2016 07:39pm
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I have seen some steel siding that has looked real nice on some cottages. Don't cheap out on the quality that is my advice.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 5 Apr 2016 07:48pm
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Hardi siding, made of cement and fiber, doesn't rot and insects don't eat it, along with being fire resistive. Costs about $1/sq ft.
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 5 Apr 2016 10:05pm
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What caught my eye, 2x8 floor joists with a 16' span... 2x12's? Or piers spaced more than 8' apart, can't weave 16' girder material?
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Julie2Oregon
Member
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# Posted: 5 Apr 2016 10:22pm
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A big second to Hardiboard products. It seems a shame to cover Amish workmanship with something as industrial-looking as metal.
We had a windstorm in my neighborhood several years ago and my neighbor's house sustained substantial damage. She wigged out and covered her whole place in metal. Her house looks like a storage building now, despite the big front porch.  I have Hardiboard siding and it's taken a Texas beating from huge hail, blistering heat, ice storms, windstorms, and flooding rains. Absolutely no fading, damage, rot, anything. I only repainted because I got tired of the color, lol.
Just something to think about. Maybe if my neighbor added more style to strength and function it would look much better.
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rockies
Member
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# Posted: 5 Apr 2016 10:38pm
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Have you considered "Bigfoot" tubes for the piers? You can buy either the footing base itself or the base and plastic tube together.
http://www.bigfootsystems.com/
What kind of windows are you using? For security I would suggest an outswing casement or an awning window. For the exterior door I would also suggest an outswing so that someone can't kick it in when you're not there.
Does the roof pitch change between the main roof and the porch roof? That will need special attention for flashing and water-proofing.
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 6 Apr 2016 12:48am
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Don, I will check on that. Thanks.
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 6 Apr 2016 12:49am
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Bobrok, Forest green roof, and grey siding. Hope it will blend in with my hardwoods.
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 6 Apr 2016 12:53am
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Wendy, Builder has used this "Everlast" product for years. Claims he has never seen it fade, flake, chip, rust, chalk etc.....I agree, no cheap materials on my list.
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 6 Apr 2016 12:56am
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Rockies, Thanks for the door suggestion. I will put that on the list. The porch will be on the gable end, so flashing should not be an issue.
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 6 Apr 2016 12:58am
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I will be looking at the Hardi panels and big foot tubes as well. Thanks all!
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spoofer
Member
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2016 10:19am
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Hardi panels will take much longer to install. They are heavy and will crack if not screwed in carefully. Especially if its a cold ny kind of day. I helped a friend side his house with them,[so I know]. He said they were expensive too.
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bobrok
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 12:58am
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There's also this product called Smartboard or Smartside. it's more a composite wood/plastic than a cement/cellulose product so it might be less costly. Mine kind of looks like T1-11 siding (vertical, but with embossed grain). I clad my Amish built shed with this and I'm pleased. Very durable.
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 10:19am - Edited by: Don_P
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Google the litigation on that product, they are on a different generation of development now from my understanding. I haven't found Hardi to be that expensive, there is a learning curve but it is not difficult. I typically predrill and hand nail it. Miserable to saw but it is pretty inert from there out.
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 11:04am
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I've installed hardieboard with a nail gun. Works great. Of course, get it right the first time. And best done with a helper.
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bobrok
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 12:52pm
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Quoting: Don_P Google the litigation on that product, they are on a different generation of development now
Thanks for that info. Mine is of the newer generation since its less than 10 years old. I haven't seen any of these issues but I'm glad you called my attention to this. Thank God it's just my shed and not my house or camp!
Was not able to retrieve the pdf file for the warranty per your link.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 04:14pm
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I like Hardi siding and willing to deal with its difficulties, but I have no long term experience with it. If you snoop the web you'll find some very dissatisfied customers of Hardi siding. In their experience, the material degraded to the point of turning to powder, and in some cases shrunk enough to be very obvious. Hardi has paid out a lot of money in claims.
What's going on? I don't know- maybe Hardi had a different formula in the past, or a few bad batches. My understanding is that it is basically Portland cement mixed with organic fiber of some sort. If you take a chunk of Hardi siding or trim, throw it in the fire, after it cools down next day it will appear intact, but easy to break in your hands. I guess cause the organic fiber is gone. So couldn't that fiber rot in high moisture situations? Who knows.
Hardi makes two formulas, one for cold snow country and one for warmer, moister areas, maybe to address this issue.
I think I'm fine where I'm installing, but I did notice that the upset reviewers who had the stuff fail all came from areas in the country with warm moist summers. So I wonder if Hardi is a poor choice in some climates. But this is all speculation, I just don't know. But the descriptions of total failure I found from some unfortunate users were a bit scary. It's nice looking stuff though.
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 06:55pm
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Quite possible. My understanding is the fiber is wood. They do say it is not for ground contact and to keep it off decks and roofs so it stands to reason that it can lose integrity in high moisture.
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Julie2Oregon
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 07:20pm - Edited by: Julie2Oregon
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I know I tend to be a somewhat obsessive researcher, questioner, planner, but I don't have money to throw away on anything, ever, and I have to make sure that I get things right the first time. It's been my experience that some people don't take the time to do the research ahead of time and either leave it up to some bloke they hired (also whom they didn't research very well, if at all) and/or to simply go with what seems or looks good, whether it's optimal for their situation. Don't get me started on not reading instructions. Geez.
I used to do product reviews for a major retailer. I'm not telling which one.  They'd send me some pretty major stuff and I'd use it and then write detailed reviews on my experience with the products. The retailer used this info to decide whether to continue to offer the products for sale in its stores. I'd see what some of the other reviewers wrote and they'd pan a product for what was their own fault. They didn't follow the instructions that came with it, or they'd use it in ways it wasn't intended to be used.
I sometimes wonder if that's the deal with some of these product failures and lawsuits. Settlements and payouts aren't necessarily an acknowledgement that something is wrong with the product. (Since the average American reads at about a 6th grade comprehension level, it could also be something as simple as not being basic enough in the instruction manual.) Oftentimes, settlements and apologies are just a way of getting negative publicity to go away so a company can regain its footing, reputation, and trust. Lawyers know this and use it.
I live in a brutal place for weather and the Hardiboard that's on my house and shed have been awesome. No shrinking and cracking despite historic drought; no rot or mildew despite record rainfall and flooding. No damage from hail or high winds. It's about 16 years old now, too.
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rockies
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 08:11pm
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http://structuretech1.com/2014/06/james-hardie-vs-lp-smartside/
An interesting article on siding
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 09:17pm
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Thanks for the article rockies. It did jog my memory of the LP litigation, yes, my memory was of the earlier InnerSeal siding. It sounds like Smartside has a solid track record.
I've done similar to what the article mentions for trim. There is another sawdust/borate/waterproof resin trim product made by Miratec. You cannot route hardi trim but Miratec takes detailing well.
Neither product addresses well one thing I hear often, they are too thin. The shadow line from hardi lap siding and the look against trim is not particularly pleasing, or not traditional. I have used the architectural series of 5/8" hardi lap siding, quite heavy and expensive, and twice the dust, but it looks good. On the current job we are going round whether to use hardi or have the local millwork shop make traditional 5/8x6" poplar siding. He does a good job at a reasonable price, we do that pretty often on older homes locally.
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Julie2Oregon
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2016 10:41pm - Edited by: Julie2Oregon
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For those of us who desire fire protection, cement board is preferable between the two. As for the water-resistance component mentioned in the article, I know we're planning to use Behr Marquee satin paint on my cabin. It has many protective features. I'm going to pair it with Behr's tintable waterproofing paint for exterior masonry, too, for the exposed block of my foundation.
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 10 Apr 2016 09:12pm - Edited by: deercula
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Hardiboard & Smartside.....OK. Thanks all for the recommendations.
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 22 Aug 2016 03:02am - Edited by: deercula
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After months of waiting construction time is near. Pics of my site from late winter. You can see 4 stakes with ribbons tied on them. These are the 4 corners. Grey building in background is a privie.  [/URL].  [/URL]
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 22 Aug 2016 03:38am - Edited by: deercula
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 [/URL].
Driveway before gravel
 [/URL].
after gravel
 [/URL]
Couple pics of my woods
 [/URL]  [/URL]
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 03:45am - Edited by: deercula
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My cabin was delivered today. Some assembly required!  [/URL]  [/URL]
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sparky30_06
Member
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 06:31am
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Personally I don't mind the look of steel siding on a cabin. I'm going cheap and using T1-11 on mine. And the stuff made by LP products so hopefully it will last.
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 04:07pm
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I feel like a kid on Cristmass eve...........
 [/URL]
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sparky30_06
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 04:25pm
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Looks great!!
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