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ColdFlame
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2016 11:54am
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Beautiful job on your brick! Sorry - missed your response to my question above... thought I flagged this thread to notify me...
I was going to go with standing seam roofing, but determined the cost was too much for our property given how many roofs I had to replace. I had a house, garage (large garage), barn, and 3 sheds done. Opted to go with a 50 year shingle, knowing full well they won't last that long, but hoping to get 30-35 out of them (if we're even here to care by that point).
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2016 08:33pm
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I'm going with standing seam on the cabin, and thus far, salvaged metal roofing on the sheds. The cabin roofing will cost more than the four others combined. The cabin gets the best because it's the one most worth protecting.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 25 Dec 2016 12:53am
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Another update- finished the brick surround, and discovered a problem. The brick, when dry, is discolored and whitish from minerals in the brick that come to the surface. This brick was outside for decades exposed to the elements, and I have learned since that this often causes the brick to get a lot of mineral content in it. The solution is to use acid to cut the calcite, or efflorescence, or whatever it is. They say start with a mild acid and work your way up if necessary. So I'm going to try distilled vinegar first, then toilet bowl cleaner, and if that doesn't work I'll resort to muriatic acid. Hope I don't have to resort to that stuff- it's nasty- I think it's hydrochloric acid.
The brick is wet in the photos so you can't really see the discoloration.
Anyone have experience cleaning masonry with acids?
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 10:43pm - Edited by: bldginsp
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Update- for the record- snowy weather
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PatrickH
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2017 12:43am
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Just saw this about the brick issue I have used muriatic acid a bit and it will take the surface completely off of concrete if your not careful and it will" smoke" and If your in California causes cancer you could also try TSP first I believe the discoloration is from the lyme coming through so maybe even lyme away would work.But sometimes the inconsistencies in things is what makes them so special, I like it the way it is my 2!
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2017 10:49pm
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Thanks Patrick. I finished it recently. I used vinegar, and a bit of toilet bowl cleaner, which used to be phosphoric acid but they reformulated it with some other acids and maybe a touch of muriatic in it. One problem was that I didn't clean the mortar off the surface well enough- should have brushed it, not just sponge it- beginners mistake. But the acids I used took that off and most of the lime or calcite or whatever it was that was discoloring it. Don't have a follow up photo but I'm satisfied. Probably one of those things that I would have ignored later but I had to get it right when I did it. Anyway all's well that ends well and I didn't have to use muriatic. Thanks for the input.
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OutdoorFanatic
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2017 03:19pm - Edited by: OutdoorFanatic
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Very! Very! Nice. That ceiling is going to look awesome. Are you decking it with T&G?
Whoops! Sorry, missed the pic on page 2. What is that decking? Looks really good. Ever consider running some hemlock beams under those cables to hide them? Just a thought.
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Shadyacres
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2017 03:34pm
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Just looking thru your thread again and was wandering how you will keep your traps from freezing up if you don't drain them? The ones under the floor?
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2017 04:24pm
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Outdoor- the decking on the ceiling is old weathered redwood fence boards. A fence contractor was selling them for $1 a stick, so it turned out to be both the most economical way to go and very good for my rustic look. It's not T+G, just plain edges, and I put 15 lb tar paper above it so where you see through the cracks or knot holes you see black. Worked well. But one problem is that around the perimeter of each half of the ceiling there are lots of gaps for air to get out. So we put bituthane sticky tape around those areas to seal it and I will have to caulk from the inside, but that's ok. I thought about covering the steel rods, but that's more work so I just painted them black and I'm happy with it.
Shadyacres- the local building department requires that no underfloor vents be located within 6 feet of an underfloor trap, so I did that. Only one trap is below the floor, the shower trap. But, when I'm away and the cabin gets cold all traps will be subject to freezing. This is the case in the little bathhouse I made as well. So, I get RV antifreeze and pour some in each trap before I leave. It's pretty cheap- I got 6 gallons of marine water system antifreeze (basically the same thing) for $20, delivered! That will last me years. The fresh water pipes will all be copper and designed to drain when I open drain valves, and also have a compressed air inlet so I can blast out the tankless water heater, shower valve, and any other misc. water in the system.
Thanks for your input! Suggestions welcome.
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