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Julie2Oregon
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# Posted: 21 Aug 2016 03:01 - Edited by: Julie2Oregon
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Quoting: Jabberwocky One more thing: You may have SOME determination on where the lines are buried, but again, this is really based on the perk test. The perk tester normally asks you where the building will be erected, and decides the best spot for the tank/lines based on that information. If you decide to move it somewhere else, the perk test may be invalid because the soil was tested elsewhere. Of course we are talking possibly a few hundred feet difference is all and not likely to alter the results that much, but for my own peace of mind, I would personally want to know that the testing field and the final location were one and the same.
Jabberwocky, this is a very good point. The perc tests were done on one of the 2 lots so I'll be putting the septic on that lot. They dig 3 (rather big) holes in different locations and the results were the same.
I'm thinking I'll put the septic system toward the back of that lot, the cabin pretty much near the boundary between the 2 lots, and then the well near the cabin and on the second lot. That should give me the required distances and setbacks, plus keep the septic away from vehicles, machines, any sort of intrusion.
That's what I'd like to do, anyway. It really depends on the configuration and area of the drain field.
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Littlecooner
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# Posted: 22 Aug 2016 08:21
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Julie, I tried to do a post a couple of days ago and it never posted. Anyway I did look at the onsite regulations for Oregon. That 221 lin feet in the original permit is for 24 inch wide trench. I did not see or research for the Oregon standard, but in part of the world, the lines are on 8 foot centers, as this would be a place 3x8 = 24 + 2 feet on out side of centerline for a width of 26 feet and there would be three "runs" of 74 feet so for that original 3 bedroom permit, show 26 feet by 76 feet for the absorption field lines. I always draw to scale a 5 x 10 box for the 1000 gallon septic tank. Your one bed room should cut that to only one line of 74 feet and even if they had a minimum of a two bed room, it would be 10x74 feet. Be aware, in my part of the world, one MUST put the field lines in the exact location the soil boring and any percolation test have been preformed. Moving locations on the lot requires a re submittal for the permit. Here, we are allowed a 40 % reduction in using the newer gravel free products of HDPE and I love infiltrator line. Using the 36 inch wide infiltrator here, I would only need to install one run of 48 feet of line for your one bed room cabin. I hope this helps.
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Littlecooner
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# Posted: 22 Aug 2016 08:47
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Quoting: bldginsp One thing that really amazed me about typical septic installations, and approved materials, was the thin wall pipe they use for the drainfield and piping from the septic tank to the drainfield. I forget what the type is, but it's so flimsy you could break it by stepping on it (when above ground). Underground of course it's protected, but if anything messes with it its going to break. You must use 4" diameter for all the drain pipe after the septic tank, I used heavy wall SDR 21 4" and ABS. Better for the long haul, or maybe excessive overkill.
I do think this is somewhat overkill to do the SDR 21, SDR 26 is the same as Schedule 40 and the pipe wall thickness is around 0.17" thick and rated at 160 psi, where the SDR 21 is about 0.21 or 0.22 thick and rated at 200 psi. Most everyone has the 4 inch schedule 40 stuff in stock here and we do use it on all our instillation instead of the thin wall "sewer pipe" which has no pressure rating. People do drive on the area of the septic tank and field lines on their property and it is a little insurance at a very low cost on a system. Here, we pay $ 700 to the manufacturer of the 1000 gallon septic tank and that includes his delivery and placing in the hole for the tank. The infiltrator come in 4 foot sections and is super easy to install. Cost is about $ 22 a section or $ 5.50 per foot and the end caps and periscope are not that expensive. If Julie was building here and we were putting in a one bedroom system, we would put here system in the ground for around $ 2000, and would have about half of that in materials and the other half in mobilization and installation. So you can see that $20-40 extra for heavier wall 4 inch pipe is a small amount to add for a system,
On the question of depth - that will be covered by the health department in your permit and is a function of the soil test and percolation test + local knowledge of the environmentalist at the health department.
We have been installing the $ 50 effluent filters for decades in the septic tank, a few years ago when our state regulations were updated, they now require that on all installations. It makes the absorption field lines last a true lifetime. Our tanks have manholes and one can pull the manhole, pull the plastic filter, hit it with a garden hose and replace very quickly. It is somewhat like when they invented air conditioners for cars, a fantastic improvement to an old system. I also think the same is true of Infiltrator over the old plastic perforated pipe and gravel ,
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 22 Aug 2016 09:07
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Excellent info Littlecooner. I was unaware of the effluent filters. Suppose I could install one now, just have to dig up the drain line.
Only reason I put in SDR 21 was that I got a bunch of it free- just my luck on that occasion.
I was wary of using the infiltrators but I did, since washed gravel was very expensive in my area. Glad I did now- what I wanted was a septic that I never have to worry about, hopefully I have that with 90 chambers in soil that percs at 45 minutes. I was only wary of the infiltrators because they are new, or newer, and we really don't know how they will do 30 years down the line. But everyone in the business seems to be quite happy with them. They let me put in a 5 bedroom system for around $7000
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Littlecooner
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# Posted: 22 Aug 2016 17:32 - Edited by: Littlecooner
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Quoting: bldginsp . I was unaware of the effluent filters. Suppose I could install one now, just have to dig up the drain line.
http://www.septicsolutions.com/septic-parts/septic-tank-filters/gravity-effluent-filt ers/pl-122_polylok-pl-122-effluent-filter
They also have different models but all in the similar price range. They go on the T at the outflow in the septic tank. Hope your septic tank has the manholes in the lid, not a problem to install, especially if new and no effluent in tank at this time. Just PVC glue the filter on the outfall.
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Julie2Oregon
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# Posted: 22 Aug 2016 18:35
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Littlecooner
Thanks for all of the great info!!!! If you fancy a working vacation in Rocky Point, OR, you're hired! 
This greatly helps me do my drawings to request the site eval. At the DEQ website, there's a list of approved Oregon materials to use and infiltrator is included.
What material would you recommend I use for the septic tank? Concrete? The area has a high water table so I think that might be best. No portion of my land has ever been designated in a flood plain but it is right by a really big lake and there are creeks around.
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Littlecooner
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 07:59
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http://www.septicsolutions.com/septic-parts/drainfield-products/septic-tanks/im1060_i nfiltrator-im-series-septic-tank---1060-gallon-capacity
Julie, I have no actual experience of using the plastic tanks. You can see from the above link for that on line supply house in Illinois that a "plastic" tank is $ 1150 picked up at their site. Trucking would be expensive. Here in the southeast, there are concrete tank produces scatted around and about anywhere you go, they will sell a concrete tank for $700 which includes delivery and setting into your excavated hole. These concrete tanks are bullet proof and since technology has added the two "manholes" to the lid, everyone puts them in with the lids exposed to the air, so the world (read any truck drivers, etc) can see where the septic tank is located. Also easy access as a neighboring state here requires tanks to be pumped every few years, so it is easy access. Also easy access to clean the effluent filter if needed. Those filters are total plastic and all they do is to provide insurance that nothing but liquid leaves the tank and goes out into the field lines, so they never become stopped up with any type of solids. You could ask your installed what is the price difference is between the two. I was trying to provide cost estimations for you so some unscrupulous guy does not over charge you for a system. Also the local environmentalist should supply you with a list of all the licensed installers. Although they can not recommend any one installer over the other, you can always "wink" at him or her and ask "Which ones do you never have a problem with?" and wink again. Hope he points out 2 or 3 on the list that he "never has a problem with". Hint Hint.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 08:25
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The plastic tanks only offer one advantage- they are light so they can be installed where it's not possible to get a concrete tank in. The concrete tank comes in on a large, heavy truck with a crane on it. If your property is steep or otherwise impossible for the truck to get in, a plastic tank can be brought in on a pickup. Aside from that, they are inferior and can fail. Not as strong, they can break. Not recommended. Concrete is forever, or almost. Many concrete structures built by the Romans are still there 2000 years later.
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