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Anonymous
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# Posted: 6 Jan 2011 01:26pm
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also how much glue to you apply....
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yankeesouth
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2011 03:47pm
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I have heard the bucket idea also works for chipmunks.
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Just
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2011 04:39pm
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we have small place up in canada , we haven't had a mouse in two years, since the weasel;s moved in under the cabin !!!! corse we got weasels!!!!
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pestcontrol01
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# Posted: 6 Apr 2011 02:23am
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Quoting: Anonymous suggestions
Quoting: Anonymous uggestions
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holyoak2
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# Posted: 20 Apr 2011 04:56pm
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I started to have a mouse problem a couple years ago, so I started buying the little bags of decon that you can get at the local hardware store, and putting them in a small open container under the cabin. I very seldom see any mouse sign anymore.
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MYZZER
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# Posted: 8 May 2011 06:02pm
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MYZZER here, sorry I don't own a cabin, but I do have over 45,000 hours fighting mice & rats as the owner of a multi state poison & pesticide free full service corporation.
In this situation you need to seal the entry points to achieve real control. The woods have an unlimited supply of mice & you'll be trapping for eternity. Seal all the entrance holes with 23 guage 1/4 inch hardware cloth. That's steel screen available at most home improvement stores. Most traps you get off the shelf will work to catch rodents, but without good sealwork traps are just a band-aid. (Yes, seal work is easier said than done, but not expensive.) Then after the cabin is sealed you will trap what's stuck inside. If you have any specific questions I can answer, please contact me at Myzzer@stopthatrat.com Happy Hunting
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 28 Jul 2011 11:05am
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Natural rodent control
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Malamute
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# Posted: 28 Jul 2011 11:23am - Edited by: Malamute
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The first cabin I lived in was rough as can be, (I didnt build it) and I could never keep the mice out. Before the floors were finished I used to shoot them in the house with a 22 rifle and CB loads (indoor target loads that are pretty quiet in a rifle). Best thing is to pay attention when you build and dont leave ways for them to get in, or find the holes and seal them. So far, none of the places I've built from the ground up have ever had mice in them. The spray foam in a can isn't very good for keeping mice out, they can chew through it easily.
That first cabin didnt have running water, I had a grey water bucket for dish water and washing up water, Often I'd find dead mice in it when I tossed it out. It stayed against a wall, and they'd climb up the wall and jump in, they didnt seem to realize it was water, or that they couldnt get out.
I've hed pretty good results with the traps that have the plastic trigger/bait bar that look like a piece of cheese. I always place them with the trigger bar end against a wall. Even when baited, I'd catch at least as many that were just walking across it, ignoring the bait. I quit baiting them, just leaving the trigger bar end against a wall where they tend to walk.
I saw a mouse stealing my bird seed I put out last winter. I grabbed my 30-30 rifle and a grouse load (.310" round ball over 3 grains Unique powder) and slew him in the yard. I've had many pack rats show up around the place over the years. I can usually find them starting a nest, and dig them out and shoot them with the 22 and CB loads. For those not blessed with pack rats, they are cute, but stink to high heaven, and are very destructive, as many have attested to.
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turkeyhunter
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2011 09:55am
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Quoting: Malamute I grabbed my 30-30 rifle and a grouse load (.310" round ball over 3 grains Unique powder) and slew him in the yard
now thats a neat load for the ole thirty -thurty....:-)
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Malamute
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2011 11:01am - Edited by: Malamute
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They work great! Hornady makes the balls, .315" balls work about as well, and perhaps give a better grip for the rifling, tho I havent compared them side by side, just buy whichever size is available. The sound is about as loud as a 22 standard velocity (not high velocity) round.
Another good load for 30-30 is a 115-120 gr cast bullet over 6 1/2 grs Unique or Red Dot for a load about like the old 32-20. Great small game and nuisance critter load. It makes more noise, but still nowhere near the full power loads. Both are fun for practice and letting people get used to the guns without all the noise.
I lube the balls with Lee Liquid Alox lube, and use a tiny tuft of dacron pillow stuffing gently tamped over the powder, it makes the loads more consistant and less position sensitive. I bell the case mouths slightly, then very gently close the mouths/barely crimp with the max diameter of the ball just inside the mouth of the case. The Lyman 310 tool is good for making these loads up, you can bell the mouths slightly and feel the work as you go. Been fooling with Red Dot powder, it's supposed to be less position sensitive, and may be fine without the dacron tuft. I havent gotten any loaded withut the tuft to compare yet, but grouse season is coming, so need to get some made up. I make similar loads for the 348 winchester with .350" round balls. Been using the heavier rifle since the bears have been more numerous and active.
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rayyy
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2011 04:52pm
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Nice idea,Mike but they both have some nasty side effects.
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dsj
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# Posted: 20 Feb 2012 05:02pm
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In warm weather I use the bucket and peanut butter can trap with bleach rather than water.
If your away for any amount of time, the decomposing mice in water can be quite unpleasent smelling, even to the point of attracting bears.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 20 Feb 2012 06:00pm
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Mice are still attracted? if there's bleach in the bucket?
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neb
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# Posted: 20 Feb 2012 07:19pm
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I would try to close and seal all places they can get in. I would get some cats for the cabin. I knew a guy that had big problems with mice and we got a few cats and the problem ended. It is just a thought.
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dsj
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# Posted: 21 Feb 2012 09:42am
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Quoting: TomChum Mice are still attracted? if there's bleach in the bucket?
I use about a 50% mix with water. Our bucket in the woodshed seems to always have more than enough "remains" when we return.
if you have pets, then instead of antifreeze in the winter, mix up a saltwater brine.
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spicyacres
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# Posted: 21 Feb 2012 10:10am
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Quoting: dsj In warm weather I use the bucket and peanut butter can trap with bleach rather than water.
Sounds like a great idea - how exactly do you set it up?
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wakeslayer
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# Posted: 22 Feb 2012 06:48pm
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Anyone ever try hedgeballs? We have had great luck with them in both cabins. They also deter bugs and such. They can be found in your produce department in the fall, or online. They are also called Bodark Apples. I think they grow on a shrub in Texas. We put a half dozen in each building and do not find mice remnants. We use them at home on the farm too.
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Cotopaxi
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# Posted: 24 Oct 2012 08:53am
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Have you tried using rat trap stations? It does not have to be this one but they look like this: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/trapper-trex-rat-trap-p-95.html
They work wonders if you bait them with rodent lures
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rayyyy
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# Posted: 26 Oct 2012 05:07pm
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Right now I'm mouse free,I finally got that little---turd that has been chewing up everything in my camper,including the lambs wool lining on my saddles,,,owwwwwwww!!!!Hopelfully I'm done with this war for this year.I have a friend that has been battleing rats in his barn,say's anti freeze mixed in to some penutbutter has worked well,I wonder if this would work with micesss as well?
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shawnpayne1982
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# Posted: 15 Sep 2019 11:55pm
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If you set out mouse poison and traps alone, you will be stuck in a constant cycle of infestation, control, reinfestation. Contamination can quickly build up.
Check out this article on mouse proofing.
URL
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hattie
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2019 12:45am - Edited by: hattie
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The bucket trap I found out about on this forum got 36 mice in the heritage cabin we are caretakers of. We filled all the holes we could find and we seem to have the mice battle won. Pack rats are another beast completely. We just can't get rid of them.
They are in the dug cellar and we have filled every hole we can find but they keep coming in. I go down and destroy their nests and they just sit and watch me. I have put out ammonia in jars in the cellar and they just knock over the jars. They were nesting in an old cabinet down there so I nailed it shut.
In desperation I read that dehydrated potato flakes work. The theory is they will gorge on them, drink water (I put some of that out too) and then their guts will explode. I hope GaryO isn't reading this or he'll have something to say for sure.
I figure when we go back there in a couple of weeks we'll either find exploded rats all over the cellar or a bunch of happy rats sitting with all their family waiting for the nice lady to bring them more. I don't want to resort to poison but if the taters don't work I'm leaning that way. 
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hattie
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# Posted: 28 Sep 2019 03:26pm
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Went back to the cabin and the tater flakes were all gone. I used a high powered light to look around the cellar for dead pack rats. All I found was one live rat staring at me from the other end of the cellar. I climbed the ladder and asked Bob to show me how to use his air gun. Went back down and one shot in the head and it was lights out for the pack rat. Don't mess with the crazy tater flake lady. 
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Smawgunner
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# Posted: 29 Sep 2019 08:00am
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I’ve found that you MUST find where they are coming in and fix it or your efforts are useless. You might as well put your traps on the outside of the cabin and expect to catch all of nature’s mice lol
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Ontario lakeside
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# Posted: 29 Sep 2019 10:04am
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I use expanded galvanized mesh, wound in the tile department. Cheaper than hardware cloth and razor sharp.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbwmmYD-r_o
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hattie
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# Posted: 29 Sep 2019 12:02pm - Edited by: hattie
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We've been working for weeks patching holes with metal. They are very tenacious and smart. They began chewing the window frames and trying to get in that way. We covered all the lower windows in metal mesh. Then they tried chewing through the loft windows. We covered those windows with metal mesh as well. Game camera footage has shown an increase in pack rat traffic on the porch. I guess they are having trouble finding ways inside (which is a good thing). Our resident owls need to step up and get 'em.
Ontario Lakeside - that metal mesh you posted is EXACTLY what we used on the windows. We actually found a bunch of it in a dump pile on the property and so we salvaged it. Didn't cost us a penny.
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hattie
Member
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# Posted: 2 Oct 2019 09:22pm
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We used the galvanized mesh on the lower windows and hardware cloth (we had to buy this because we ran out of the galvanized mesh) for the two upper windows. The rats were also chewing the window sill so I screwed on some metal drywall corners. The photo shows the galvanized mesh on a lower window and the hardware cloth and drywall corner on the loft window.
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darz5150
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# Posted: 2 Oct 2019 11:11pm - Edited by: darz5150
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It seems we are having squirrel problems again. Looks like one just started using a set of steps as a chew toy.
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