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paulz
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2020 08:28pm
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I want to add a pressure switch to my well pump, so I can leave the generator running while I use a pressure washer or just a hose nozzle. Right now I just run the generator until my water tank is full then shut it off.
Looks like they come in 30/50 or 40/60 psi. Do I need to match my pump spec or anything? It's a submersible.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2020 10:31pm
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As long as the cut-out pressure (the larger number) is less than what your pump can produce, you're fine. They're usually adjustable anyway.
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Irrigation Guy
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# Posted: 10 Aug 2020 06:46am
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I would recommend a pressure tank as well or you are going to cycle the pump rapidly every time you pull the trigger on the pressure washer. And depending on your generator size it may even cause it to trip the reset.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 10 Aug 2020 07:34am
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Both the switch and pressure tank need to work together. Both are usualy very adjustable though. If you have a 120v pump I would think you can pick any of those pressures you posted. My house uses a 40/60.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 10 Aug 2020 09:30am
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Thanks guys, good point on the pressure tank.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 12 Aug 2020 08:35pm - Edited by: paulz
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This tank was on my property when I bought. I figured I'd at least hook it up and see if it holds water. It's about 4' tall and 3' diameter.
I have a pressure tank for the radiant heating at my house. It has, I assume, a bladder, and an air valve at the top for which I think has like 15psi.
This tank has a fitting on the top but it's blanked off at the bottom of the threads, almost like the bung was welded on but a hole never drilled.
Do these tanks in fact have a bladder, or air above the water?
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 12 Aug 2020 09:48pm
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I think I found the answer, from somewhere on the 'net:
Drain it, then turn on the pump.
Old tanks had no bladder, so the air and water are not separated. As a result, there's no pre-pressurization, and the size of tank needed for the same effect is considerably larger. A properly set up and maintained system also has a (prone to fail) widget that adds air to the water coming from the well, since the air in the tank will dissolve into the water in the tank over time and make the system "waterlogged" causing short-cyling of the pump - requiring draining the tank again. If the widget is working right that's less prone to happen, since more air is added each time water is pumped.
Lived through it growing up, purchased a bladder type tank without batting an eyelash when the time came to set up my own well. But if you are not yet at the stage of fixing/upgrading the system, simply draining the tank before you start pumping water is what you do.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 12 Aug 2020 10:09pm
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Get a modern tank with a tank tee that will have all the ports for pressure switch, pressure gauge, hose bib, and pressure relief.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 13 Aug 2020 06:59am
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I wouldnt think they would take a good working tank out of service. I wouldnt mess with that old thing.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 13 Aug 2020 10:04am
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Not sure what this tank was used for. There is a concrete cistern on the property, by the creek a couple hundred feet from the well. This tank was next to it. There was also cheap plastic tubing running from there to a place where some squatters may have been growing dope, so I heard. In any case yeah, probably a dead horse, something else to haul away.
I had another thought though. My intent is to have water available down at my new shop and the yard in front of it (the cabin and it's water tank are up the hill a ways, the well is down near the shop). I have a spare 350 gallon tank sitting around. I could put that up on the hill by the shop roof. That would give me gravity feed water for hand washing, and I could use a small pump for the pressure washer (if it needed it) or washing machinery etc..
Sounds like it might be a better plan.
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