|
| Author |
Message |
1930
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Dec 2018 07:05am
Reply
I have property near Ocala Fl, I plan to put in some shallow wells using this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rYPRMm8Arw&list=LL6uPT_vKO9yfzSnP2w3L7kg&index=10&t= 0s guys methods.
I know zero about any of this other than what I am able to learn online, Im still not even sure if its a fact that when I see a small pond does that mean the depth of that pond is where the water table is at.
Anyway id like to hear from people here what they have experienced.
If you take the time to watch the video you will see that he put a 20 foot casing in the ground with slits that he has made with a saw.
He then backfills this with pee gravel.
I know that the hole he has dug is most likely not perfectly straight, that the pipe is not perfectly centered within the hole so there is a good chance that his pipe is off too one side not allowing the gravel to go around it and so not filtering the water that is leaching into the pipe.
Im wondering if some sort of sock is avail to go over the pipe that can be buried, act as a filter and not decompose for a very long time?
Id like to hear your well digging experiences
|
|
Old and Slow
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Dec 2018 03:04pm
Reply
I'll share my meager knowledge. I have never lived in Ocala so have no idea of the composition of the soil. near Columbia, SC, I tried what was essentially an auger bit screwed to a pipe and turned with a pipe wrench. It was removed frequently to prevent the dirt above it from blocking it from being removed much like running a brace and bit into a thick beam. I eventually hit water, but was unsuccessful in actually creating a chamber to be able to pump.
In my years in coastal Georgia where there is sand and no rocks until red clay, I've watched a well "washed in" by using pressurized water connected to a galvanized pipe and then letting the water wash out the well. It worked.
I also watched a shallow well drilling rig which also used a lot of water to clean out the dirt while drilling. It was used commercially.
A hydrologist (an expert on water) said the water table is a certain distance below the surface which does follow the contour of the land. I does not sound right, but I'm no expert.
A sand point can be driven into the ground while attached to a galvanized pipe. Well pipe is in short sections to make driving easier than dealing with 20 feet of pipe in the air. Again no person observation or experience.
Both the sand point and the wash method leave the pipe in the ground serving as a casing.
A pitcher pump has a 1 1/4 pipe fitting on the bottom as I remember. It and a shallow well electric pump are limited to around a twenty to twenty-five foot lift.
Over twenty-five feet either requires a submerged pump which is probably around 6" diameter or a two pipe above ground pump.
My Tennessee house has a spring. Best of luck.
Bob
|
|
SE Ohio
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Dec 2018 03:21pm - Edited by: SE Ohio
Reply
In Ocala's sandy soil, you might want to drive a sand point well? In St. Pete I could strike water in one shovel strike in the rainy season... You'll want to go deeper for cleaner water.
Several youtube videos on driving sandpoint, can be done without power tools.
SE Ohio
|
|
LastOutlaw
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Dec 2018 04:59pm - Edited by: LastOutlaw
Reply
If the soil is sandy this method should work well. Drill a well using water pressure
Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGq0ETzZP0E
Part 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7RZv73maYI
|
|
1930
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Dec 2018 05:21pm
Reply
I appreciate the replies, yes sand, more sand and then even more.
Im not wanting a sandpoint for several reasons
1: I may want to eventually use a small pump to get the water to surface and so I would like a larger well casing
2- I have read and can understand why in many cases a sandpoints replenishment rating is low, again a larger casing is going to help with that Im hoping.
3- I dont like the idea of putting steel in the ground knowing that it has a limited life span, stainless steel nowadays is nothing like it used to be.
I do not have water or electric on site so boring a hole with water is out of the question for now
|
|
Just
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Dec 2018 07:11pm
Reply
You want a cisterin well .
start by buying a 4 x4 x6 cement cisterin with a removable cement top and no bottom.
Hire a backhoe with a long reach and a small bucket.
dig a hole down to the water level and place the cement cistern open bottom side down in the hole.
Then have the hoe continue to dig inside the box .As he digs the cement cistern will sink into the void under it . dig untill
it is covered with water . place the cement lid on top . install a suction pipe through the top to your pump . Back fill the hole. You can add some gravel to the bottom if you wish ,some do I don't think its nessisary.
Let it stand over night the water will clear ready for use .
You have a well...
|
|
1930
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Dec 2018 03:14am
Reply
Potentially thousands of dollars, thanks but what I want is what I mentioned above and what is shown in the video I posted.
Thanks for the explanation though, interesting the method you describe, someone would have to be real good with a bucket to not damage the cement box
|
|
Just
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Dec 2018 12:26pm - Edited by: Just
Reply
It can be done on a much smaller scale using a post hole auger and 8 in. cement tile . You still need to dig a initial hole big enough to stand in and down to the water level . Dig in the. First tile try to keep it level then dig a hole under it through the tile with the auger. Keep digging and adding tile as they drop into the void under them . If you don’t use tile in sandy soil your hole will keep caving in on itself and limit how deep you can go .When you think your deep enough to-get the volume you need add a lingth of solid plastic pipe to come above the serface to keep dirt and pests out.
|
|
|
Atlincabin
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Dec 2018 10:09am
Reply
Quoting: 1930 Im wondering if some sort of sock is avail to go over the pipe that can be buried, act as a filter and not decompose for a very long time?
Yes, there is nylon mesh sock material that can be used. Probably good for at least 20 years. Something like what you can find here:
https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/nylon-mesh-fabric-tube.html
Alternatively, you could use that landscape cloth (some sort of plastic, not sure if it's nylon or poly but likely poly) wrapped around the pipe. It transmits water but is designed to keep weeds from growing (not that you will have weeds in your well....). Probably harder to get sealed around a pipe, but a couple wraps would likely do the job. Neither of these solutions would catch all of the fine sediment, but will get a lot of it. I would add an inline standard sediment filter from a big box store to catch the rest of the fine stuff.
|
|
Old and Slow
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Dec 2018 10:15am
Reply
A foot valve has mesh. For a surface mounted well, you probably want a foot valve to hold prime.
|
|
Just
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Dec 2018 01:37pm
Reply
if you need a filter put it after the pump so you can cleen it without diging up the well . a foot velve is a good idea you can also put that at the top of the well.
|
|
|
