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aktundra
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# Posted: 17 Aug 2017 12:30pm
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I wired my cabin for 12 v with romex, but I need a fuse box or breaker box. Should I get a midnight solar 12v box? Some told me to use a blue sea fuse box but it seems the romex will be too large and bulky for this. Any suggestions on what others did ? Now I wish I hadn't wired with romex
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old243
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# Posted: 17 Aug 2017 09:32pm
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You can use a regular panel , you might want to use ac at some point. You have to size your dc wire larger to , account for the amperage draw. Depending on your planned dc load. Also you would have to have a separate ac panel , if going ac. Not positive about the breakers , rating for dc. Perhaps someone could advise as well, shoot me down if I am incorrect. old243
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ICC
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# Posted: 17 Aug 2017 10:34pm
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Buy a Square D panel that uses the Square D QO breakers. Those breakers are approved for DC current in up to 24 VDC systems. The individual breakers may not carry the DC labeling but they are approved for DC. Documents can be found to back that up. If you switch to an AC system they can also be used for AC, but of course not in the same enclosure at the same time. The amp rating is the same for either the AC or the DC, but the DC voltage allowed is much less.
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razmichael
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# Posted: 18 Aug 2017 09:59am - Edited by: razmichael
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How many circuits? Nothing expensive is really needed especially if you do not expect to change to AC anytime soon (the Square D breakers are not cheap). There are lots of options available from simple inline glass fuse holders, DC auto or glass type fuse boxes, or even combined fuse/switch boxes. Check out (only an example site) Includes Blue-Sea stuff The ChandleryOnline under "Breakers and Fuses" as well as "Electrical Panels and Meters". Not sure what gauge your Romex is but it is easy to solder on ring connectors to the ends to attach to the connection screws. Fuses are cheap to replace although this should not be something that is needed! I've only blown 1 and that was during working on something. I actually used #10 to distribute to three points in the cabin (got it cheap) and then split into #12 to the switches and lights. This cut down the voltage drop but meant fuses at the distribution points as well - just used blade type in-line ones.
Kinda a messy picture of my wiring while I was working on it - way more complex than it needed to be but it was fun. You should be able to see a couple of types of fuse boxes.
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Nate R
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# Posted: 18 Aug 2017 10:48am
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I have a blue sea distribution/fuse box for my 12V. I thoguht I ran Romex up to one of the circuits....I'll have to look.
Either way, yeah, you could strip some romex back, put ring terminals on the end, and use Blue-Sea. Cheap, compared to Square D AC boxes. And gets teh job done.
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creeky
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2017 12:48pm
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The square d qo breakers are rated to 125 dc by schneider.
The boxes are cheap in the us. Expensive in canada. ?
I like the blue seas stuff. Good quality. Makes wiring easy.
Depending on use, remember soldering shouldn't be used in a vibrating environment, rv/boat. Cabins of course don't usually move much. 😊
But I crimp.
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ICC
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2017 07:17pm - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: creeky square d qo breakers are rated to 125 dc by schneider.
Hmmm. Maybe some later, newer info out there someplace?
that link lists 48 vDC, but applying the 1.25 safety factor for NEC that limits the system to less than 48 volts... so a 36 vDC system would be okay, but who does that?
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2017 10:49pm
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Why not use 110VAC, then just have an inverter to change from your battery DC to your cabin AC. Charge batteries with your solar panels, then just run a conventional circuit panel?
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ICC
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2017 09:56am
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It does seem that Schneider has done an update to the QO series and they do have higher DC ratings that historically. Still some outdated info on line.
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aktundra
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2017 01:18am
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Thanks for the help. I still haven't decided, although I did buy midnite solar 12V breaker box.
It may be helpful to explain my system, and use some of the knowledge here.
I have several buildings I would like power to. The question is how should I go about this. The main cabin will have the solar setup. Originally I planned on running the sauna off of DC, but since I need to run it 70', I'm rethinking it. The shed I will run AC.
I realize I am not going to power everything all at once and completely on solar. The system was size to run the fridge for 7 days on the battery bank.
I want to be able to start the generator in the generator shed and have power anywhere without lugging the thing around, moving extension cords, etc.
1) Main cabin (not wired yet, currently been on propane for the last 30+years)
This will be where the battery bank/inverter/charger are located.
- lights
- outlets for charging cell phones
- 12V small fan
- Toyo stove
- Sundazer DCRF450 Fridge
2) Sauna - wired but no panel. It's all romex now, so I can go either way.
- 12V lights
- USB outlets
- 12V shurflo pump
- A couple 110V outlets
3) Shed - I would like to plug the generator in and run this. Usually out here, I'll need the output from the generator to run tools and such.
- 110V Lights
- 110V outlets
Here is the system:
3 x 160 Watt Carmanah Panels
2 x Rolls S550 Batteries
Magnum Energy Remote Control MeArc 50
Magnum Inverter MMS1012
MidnightSolar 30A MPPT
Thanks for the help. I am using my local solar store, and I've purchased and sized through them.
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aktundra
Member
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2017 01:34am
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Also....
I thought about running both AC and DC to the sauna. Mainly because DC is all I really need. Seems with the amps that I'd be supplying, the voltage drop wouldn't be too bad.
At the end of the day, I just need someone to tell me to Keep it Simple Stupid!
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rayyy
Member
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# Posted: 28 Aug 2017 01:25pm
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For my 12 volt DC system,I have it all set up on a automotive/marine 10 fuse block.My Honda eu2000i, 120 volt AC generator provides circuit protection for the high voltage stuff.my cabins is wired for both.
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old243
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# Posted: 28 Aug 2017 09:37pm
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How far apart are your buildings? How is the digging? If not far apart you can probably trench and serve them under ground. You could have 12 volt and ac, to where ever you choose. In the same trench.old 243
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ramloui
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# Posted: 29 Aug 2017 08:59am
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If you have to have AC anyway, I would ditch the 12V. Running 12VDC any distance will require very large gauge wire to minimize voltage drop. It will quickly offset the cost of buying all 120 VAC components which are far more readily available at any hardware store.
Remember that P=V x I. So, to provide the same power (P) to a device, your wire needs to carry 10 times as much current (I) if you go 12V rather than 120V. As in:
1200 W = 12 V x 100 A = 120 V x 10 A
Good luck!
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