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Rebel300r
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 20:10
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Hi all, finally needing to get hot water to the cabin. I am using the L10 but don't really understand how the pump will work. It all will run off 12VDC. Should I use a Shurflo pump? If so, how does it (the pump) know when to turn on. I don't really want to have to turn the pump off and on before and after I use water from the water heater. I know there are on demand pumps but not sure how successful they are with the L10. Any input on what you are using for a pump on a 12V system? Scott
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DackRetreat
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 21:33
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Hi-Please see my post on "Cost of Land in Adirondack" where I show some pictures of my setup and speak a little about the L10. The pressure tank needs to have a switch on it. It effectively tells the pump when it needs more water, which is essentially when the pressure in the tank drops below a certain PSI. The EcoTemp has worked out great for me. It does require a certain amount of pressure flowing through it in order for the hot water flame to actually turn on.
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Rebel300r
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 22:02
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Ok, I see what you did. You have a tank with a pressure switch, wired to the pump. I believe there are also pumps with internal switches that sense when the valve on the L10 opens. I don't have a pressure tank, but will be drawing out of a 275 g tote. Thanks Dack.
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razmichael
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 22:05 - Edited by: razmichael
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Alternative: I have the L5 (same basic thing just slightly smaller) with a flojet 12V pump. The pump has a built in pressure switch so, if you use a small tank, it is the pump that will come on when the pressure in the tank drops. In fact, i do not use a tank at all (essentially the plumbing acts as the "tank". Open a tap, pressure drops and pump comes on. I actually use mine slightly differently - My faucets (Whale Brand) all have micro switches in them wired up to a relay near the pump. Open a faucet and the relay closes powering the pump. I did not bypass the pump's built in pressure switch so if you turn a faucet only enough to power the relay/pump but not enough to actually allow water out of the tap, you will hear the pump come on and then cut out as the plumbing line pressure builds up to the pump cut out setting. Although highly unlikely to happen - prevents one of the kids not closing a faucet all the way. Also, should a line leak, as the switches are not on, the pump will not run.
I think the decision on whether to use a pressure tank really depends on how much you expect to use the system and how many concurrent users you expect. Despite the long explanation, my system is very simple but is not designed to have kitchen and shower going at the same time without fluctuations in temperature and flow.
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darz5150
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 22:08 - Edited by: darz5150
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Not sure if this helps but the sure flow pumps and others have a pressure regulator. We do have ours on an on/off switch with an indicator light so we know not to leave it on. It is powered from a solar set up, and its not too inconvenient to switch it on and off to prevent unnecessary draw on the batteries. Also if you have a break or leak in the plumbing, it prevents you from flooding under your cabinets or wherever.
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razmichael
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 22:11
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Rebel300r - based on your second post (while I was typing mine), it sounds a bit like your system might end up being similar to mine. Here is a simplified diagram of what I did. Note the two "manifolds", one for cold and one for hot. Diagram shows only one line out from both but four connections each. My current system has a shower and two sinks (so 3 or the four used).
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Rebel300r
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 22:16
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Raz, do you remember what flojet you used? I see that EccoTemp has one that they sell in a package with the L10. I am going to buy that one methinks. I appreciate the diagram. I think darz idea of a switch in addition to the pressure switch in the flojet is a good one. Thanks!
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razmichael
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 22:24
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Sorry I don't but i did get it as a package with the L5. Downside to micro switch faucets is the cost and limited selection. Mine are Whale brand (marine).
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Rebel300r
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 22:35
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Thanks Raz.
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razmichael
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 22:41
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I should add that the micro switches could be considered overkill so you can think about if you need them. I just wanted you to know that they are an option. Also check out accumulator tanks designed to smooth out the flow a bit when you do not have a full pressure tank. I don't have one so can't comment on how effective they are
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darz5150
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 22:43
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@ rebel
Just as a side note.
I also hooked up a string of led lights to the on/off switch in the kitchen above the sink and stove. That way when we do the dishes or are cooking we have more than enough light to see what's cooking' and also see how good your washin' the dishes.
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Rebel300r
Member
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# Posted: 12 Dec 2016 23:03
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Ah, good idea.
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FishHog
Member
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# Posted: 13 Dec 2016 08:33
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my L10 and pump package is all I use. I have a tote supplying water. Pump is mounted beside the tote. Pressure switch on the pump keeps the pressure up in the system. open a tap, pressure drops and pump kicks on. close tap, and pump shuts off. I put an on/off switch beside the pump so I can shut it off when I leave, but otherwise it has power all the time. Works great. Simple and simple is good in my books.
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Rebel300r
Member
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# Posted: 14 Dec 2016 19:45
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Thanks Fish, I bought a Flojet diaphragm pump, 2.9 GPM 50 PSI, 12 volt DC to go from the tote to the cabin.
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