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rmak
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 01:58pm
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I did a search and came up empty. I was wondering if I should be taking steps with my 'new this year' Honda 2000i now that winter is setting in. I haven't used it much since completing the solar set up but I want to keep it at the cabin site just in case. I usually put Stabil in my mowers and motorcycle.
Thanks!
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SkipL
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 02:01pm
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Thats what i do to mine. plus i shut off the gas and run it till it dies.
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bobrok
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 02:36pm - Edited by: bobrok
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Let's see if I remember, and did this correctly on mine.
Open the side panel and up on top is a screw that drains the carb through a tube to the bottom of the unit. Fill the gas tank to full up with ethanol stabilizer mixed fuel. Less air in the tank = less gas deterioration. Shut off the breather on the cap.
Remove the sparkplug and add a teaspoon of oil. Replace the sparkplug and pull the starter cord a few times with the engine switch off, ending the last pull as you feel resistance. This closes the valves and seals the cylinder for storage.
I've had a lot of problems lately with small infrequently used gas engines and bad gas. Been through several conversations with different small engine guys regarding using regular stabilizer vs. ethanol additive stabilizer. Everybody has a different opinion, but after what I went through I'd recommend using something vs. no additives at all.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 04:17pm
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if your storing for more than a few months, I'm a firm believer in draining all fuel. Fuel is crap today, it goes bad way to fast. Either drain completely, or fill completely with non-ethanol fuel. Add stabilizer. But if you have running issues, drain the fuel and start with fresh.
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Truecabin
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 04:31pm
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i have about 40 engines cant even get started taking out or even touching perfectly good spark plugs or changing gas from last season
touch too many tools to that honda you will cause more problems if you dont know why you dont need to do all that stuff then you don know enough to do it thats the way i look at it
just drain the gas out of the carb abd close the tank vent so humidity cant get in thats all you have to do
all the rest is because of the internet everybody just wants to go one step farther than the other guy and they cause more problems
its a honda theres a reason its the best and one reason is you dont have to dany more than the owners manual says
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Truecabin
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2014 12:03pm
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sorry for gruff tone i understand this is like a hobby but too many internet customs become truths
putting the piston at top i cant knock that one cause you can do it with the rope
i stack my firewood pile just perfect im glad nobody says its a waste of time sometimes i do it just to wind down after splitting and i have my reasons there good enough for me
i have a honda like yours i expect that the only screw i will turn is the one to take the cover off or change oil. i use it at least monthly so i wont pickle it
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2014 07:48pm
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Long term storage, if your fuel has alcohol, and most do now, for 6 months storage or more, just open the service cover, open small screw at the bottom of the carb, hose allows all gas in carb bowl to drain off. Close it back up, done. Add stabil to the gas.
If it doesnt have alcohol, same deal, but only if it sets for more than a year. Store it in a cool dry place. Add stabil too.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2014 07:55pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: bobrok I've had a lot of problems lately with small infrequently used gas engines and bad gas. Been through several conversations with different small engine guys regarding using regular stabilizer vs. ethanol additive stabilizer. Everybody has a different opinion, but after what I went through I'd recommend using something vs. no additives at all.
Bob, biggest issue with any alcohol in fuel is the water that ends up in it. Longer term storage is an issue. Find alcohol free gas if you can at http://www.pure-gas.org and I have used that stuff exclusively lately. I can get it in mid grade or premium. Its all I use in my quad, generators, lawn mowers etc. If you cant find anything near you on pure gas, then aviation fuel, the lowest octane they have will do it or at a Marina.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2014 08:15pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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Side note on gasolines...
Higher octane fuels burn slower which is how they help avoid engine pre-ignition or knocking. Higher octane fuels also burn cooler in an engine. I use 91 octane alcohol free with premium sythetic oil mix in the chain saws, and the same fuel w/o the 2 stroke oil in the generator and ATV. Over the course of a year the alcohol free high octane does not add all that much to the cost of operation and I am convinced the saws run better.
From cold my saws always burp on the third pull. Then after the choke is moved they start on the next pull. It's like clockwork.
And as far as winterizing the Honda EU2000i goes, I changed the oil a short time ago, have drained the carburetor, and filled the gas tank to the top with the alcohol free 91 with some stabilizer added. It will be ready to go whenever it might be needed. If I don't use it at all until spring my usual thing is to siphon out the tank, use that in the car/truck and re-fuel the generator with fresh fuel. Following that routine the previous generator lived through 9 years of use, almost 2000 hours, before lightning claimed its electronics. No carb work at all and only about 3, maybe 4 spark plugs.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 10:12am
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Maybe it's all un needed. I have one of the first 2000I's and I've never done anything to it. I change oil a couple times, but no plugs or carb troubles. On any of my seasonal engines, I will try to run them once and a while. Oh by the way my first 2,000 gets way more use than any one I've ever heard of. I use it at work almost every day in the summer, running compressors and saws. I can't seem to wear it out. I did buy another one, just in case, because I can't live without it.
Owen
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groingo
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 03:34pm
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On all of my generators that I know I will not use for a season I run the gas out of the engine / carb, drain the fuel tank and leave the fuel cap loose so any leftover gas can evaporate.
Oil is always changed so old oil isn't setting, besides it's a good excuse to change the most important part of the engine then you're ready to go when you need it.
Cleaning outside and inside of generator keeps it looking good and can show any leaky gaskets and such and don't the air filter.
One final step, a nice warm dry place to park till you need it again.
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bobrok
Member
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 05:06pm
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Anybody use synthetic oil in their generators? The reason I ask is because its been recommended to me that I switch to synthetic for my pickup that sits idle for a couple of months over the winter.
Would synthetic oil have the same advantages in a seasonally unused generator?
I know you would still have to change the oil often, but just wondering.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 05:27pm
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I started using synthetic oils back in the early 80's when it was the only thing I found that would let my diesel Toyota crank and start w/o having a block heater plugged in. Right down to -30 F. Since then every car, truck and small engine I have owned has used synthetic engine oil; mostly Mobil 1. I also use synthetic transmission, transfer case and axle/gear lubes as well as synthetic 2 stroke mix oils.
The synthetics provide easier cranking when very cold and ensure oil will flow to critical engine parts more readily.
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groingo
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 05:28pm
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Synthetic Mobil 1 is all I use but it typically should be used from the start, changing from conventional to synthetic can cause oil seal problems.
Overall, a good quality oil, some Lucas oil conditioner thrown in for good measure and regular changes are the key, not so much the oil, but if you can why not have it all!
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bobrok
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 06:53pm
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Quoting: groingo changing from conventional to synthetic can cause oil seal problems
Great 
So now what should I do? Take a chance and go for it?
I'm lucky if I change the oil in my truck more than once a year. Over 2 years old and 16k miles on it.
What do you guys think about the generator also? Switch or stay?
Very confused here and appreciate your advice.
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groingo
Member
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 07:03pm
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Best advice, consult owners manual if new or a reputable mechanic if you plan on switching oils.
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 07:17pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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2 years is nothing IMO. Use Google; there are negative myths out there . Use reputable sources.
Like I said I have used Mobil 1 in every vehicle for over 3 decades. I only bought one of those vehicles new and it came with synthetic. The others, about 6 IIRC, were all bought used with 13 to 24K miles; one had 80K (Toyota). Switched each one over with no issues. The only thing I did different on the one with 80K was to change the first and second change to Mobil 1 at shorter intervals. I think it was 2500 for the initial switch and 3000 for the second. That was Mobil 1's suggestion in case there was 'crud' inside that the new oil would break loose / dissolve.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 07:27pm
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you won't have any issues switching to synthetic. 30 years ago, maybe, but they are compatible now. I'm a firm believer in synthetic and certainly would switch, and have switched every engine I've had for the past 20 years with no issues.
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bobrok
Member
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 08:11pm
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Sorry to hijack the generator thread over to my truck issues.
Thanks, guys.
</ot>
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rmak
Member
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 09:14pm
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Hey, it's my tread and if you want to talk about your truck I support you 100%. I like threads that springboard into other areas. I always learn something.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 09:48pm
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Quoting: bobrok Great So now what should I do? Take a chance and go for it? I'm lucky if I change the oil in my truck more than once a year. Over 2 years old and 16k miles on it.
Swap it over to synthetic if you want. The molecules are just smaller and can find their way past a seal. If it does develop a leak (and it wont) then replace the seal or swap back to conventional oils.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 19 Nov 2014 12:53am - Edited by: OwenChristensen
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I thought Honda oil was synthetic, at least they charge like it is.
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 19 Nov 2014 09:37am - Edited by: MtnDon
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As far as I can tell genuine Honda small engine oil is ordinary petroleum oil sold at a premium price. Honda does have a full synthetic as well as a synthetic blend they sell as a motor oil for their cars. All the way down to 0W-20. Yes, zero. It is noted on the bottle that it is synthetic. Their small engine oil does not have such a notation. Therefore my assumption.
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