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bldginsp
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2015 06:50pm
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The hand held shower head that comes with the unit has an on/off switch/valve on it so you can turn it on without touching anything on the heater itself. Yes you'd have to go outside to set the temp but as scootasomethingorotherscmitty says once it's set it's set. You could mount the heater close enough to the window to access it but the instructions say to mount it at least 36" from an openable window, presumably to keep it far enough away that the gasses don't get into the building. The hose/tube on the shower head seems to be plenty long enough to reach. There is a mounting bracket that you can screw to the wall to hold the shower head while you shower.
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paulz
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2015 07:22pm
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I got the impression scooterscmittysomething has cold water and the L10 both piped to a conventional shower valve to control temp. Maybe I'm wrong. I'm a weenie when it comes to shower temp, has to be just right or I'm angry all day. My wife on the other hand can stand there and turn on just the cold without flinching. Plus I'd like a hot water sink. Any reason you could not plumb them along with cold water to standard faucet valves?
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2015 08:08pm - Edited by: bldginsp
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I'm not 100% sure about this. One thing they tell you about the Eccotemp units (the manufacturer, that is) is that they must have 20 lbs water pressure to operate, or it won't work. So I guess the question is, will they work with a low flow rate? If you plumb it to a standard shower mixing valve, as I think scooteryadayadaschmidtty did (sorry scoot), then the flow rate from the hot water heater will be reduced as cold water is mixed with it. This shouldn't be a problem so long as the water pressure is there. I think the unit will shut itself off if it does not have adequate pressure, but it should keep going with a reduced flow rate. Scoot- how much water pressure do you have, and is your heater plumbed to a shower mixing valve?
My shower house is plumbed to send hot water to the sink, and serve the regular Eccotemp shower head as well, but I won't have it hooked up and running til Sept.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2015 08:27pm
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Ah yes, the 20 lb. minimum, forgot about that. The bottom of my 500 gallon water tank is about 25 feet above the cabin floor, I was hoping for gravity feed. Any guesstimate how much pressure I will have without a pump?
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2015 08:51pm
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The question is how far is the top of your water level in the tank from the point it will be delivered to, which in your case is about 20 feet. At .43 lbs. per foot rise, you have about 8 or 9 lbs., not enough. You may need a pump to get the pressure up. Lots of folk on this site use Surflo pumps in their cabins and can help you figure how to set it up. Need elec.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 11 Jul 2015 01:38pm
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I do have my hot and cold water lines plumbed into a kitchen sink as well as traditional faucets in a vanity and the shower. I use a surflo pump that gives me approximately 40psi. It works great for the kitchen and vanity taps and I can set the heat up higher and mix hot and cold. With the shower it is finicky when I try to do this and the drop in pressure will cause the hot water to cut out. I think it is because of the old school taps I used for the shower. So to avoid this, I set the hot water at a comfortable shower temperature and just use the hot water tap for it. My surflo pump is the 2.8 model I believe, so at the smaller end. I'm not sure if a larger pump would prevent that from happening.
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TranquilMan
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# Posted: 12 Jul 2015 01:16am
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Thanks Skootamattaschmidty. I am planning to do exactly what you have but I have a question for anyone out there. I'll be pumping raw lake water up about 23 feet. I plan to use a Shurflo pump to move the water up and put it through a 5 micron filter to get stuff out before it gets to an Eccotemp L5 heater. I'll run a line to the kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower. My question is related to the location of the water heater. I'm off the grid so no AC power, just solar. I have built the washroom as a separate building with an attached closet accessed from outside and not open to the washroom. I'd like to put the L5 in this closet. It is 3 x 3 x ~6 (about 60 cubic feet) and has 12" square vents, one low and one high. No one will be breathing the fumes and the run time for the heater probably won't exceed 8 - 10 minutes for a shower. Does anyone see a problem with this plan? Is heat in the space an issue? I am not concerned with freezing temperatures. The cabin is boat access, remote and so only seasonal. I'm trying to keep things simple.
Tranquil Man
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