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neb
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 05:12pm
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I tried finding it on here and I know it has been posted before. What I'm looking for is a small wood stove I believe there was one posted on here that was used on a boat or something like that. It was small and that is what I'm looking for to heat up my small shack for an afternoon or for the day. I'm hoping some of my friends on here could help me out. Thanks neb
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 05:41pm
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Hi Neb. I posted the Kimberly Stove. Nobody was very interested and one person didn't like it because of the cost. You can watch some videos of it on YouTube. If I was going to use a woodburning stove this is the one I would choose.
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razmichael
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 05:50pm
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Here is one manufacturer Salamander Stoves
They look really nice and have some approval certificates but are not cheap! No practical experience with them - I was looking at them initially for my cabin but went with vented propane for the time being.
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neb
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 06:53pm
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Awesome ideas and thanks. The Kimberly stove would be exactly the size I'm looking for but to much money for me. If I was living in mine more or there a lot it would be a nice unit to have.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 07:10pm
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neb google .{ propane tank wood stove] a friend made one, works .
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rmak
Member
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 07:16pm
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Dang! I've been looking for the same thing to heat my 200 sq. foot cabin. We ran down to Leman's here in Ohio today. It's an Amish/Mennonite hardware store with a wide range of wood fired equipment. We were hoping for something local.
No luck. The smallest the had was a little Vermont Castings and a little Jotul. Both heat about 4 times the area as our cabin.
I posted these on another thread. These are what I'm seriously looking at now.
http://graystoveworks.com/
Made in PA. Since they are not EPA and UL approved (yet) you have to sign a waiver saying you understand it's an "outdoor" stove.
This one's quite costly, but very cool. I hear there's some waiting time to get them. I found out that anything that says "marine" or "boat" adds a lot of $$.
http://www.marinestove.com/codinfo.htm
Hope this helps your search.
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hueyjazz
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 07:34pm
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I think physics plays a role here. It is hard to limit the output at a lower limit while maintaining stack temperature and a small interior cavity means you would have to feed it often. Is propane an option?
Easier to regulate and limit.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 07:36pm
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Quoting: rmak I found out that anything that says "marine" or "boat" adds a lot of $$.
B.O.A.T. is an acronym for "Bust Out Another Thousand"
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 09:45pm
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And one of the many reasons I like the Kimberly stove is because a sliced log will last 8 hours.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 10:09pm
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Another well-made small stove is the Morso 1410 Squirrel. About 1000 dollars.
The Kimberly appears to have some of the most advanced technology in it for woodburning, if their claims are true. Too bad it costs three times what other well-made stoves cost.
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neb
Member
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2013 10:16pm
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I would like to thank all of you for the help and checked them all out.
Just I wish I was a person that could work with metal I would biuld a propane tank wood stove. I don't need anything fancy and it would be just right for me. I may see if I coulldn't have one biult I like the size and would serve me well. It is small and that is what I need. Thanks
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creeky
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 08:32am
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I don't see how the Kimberly manages to extract more btus then the " "one log of 4-inches across and 9.5-inches in length" piece of wood it holds holds. At the claimed 42k btus per hour and a reported 8 hr burn ... I mean something doesn't make sense here.
sounds like cold fusion...
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tcmatt
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 08:57am
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I was worried about getting roasted out of my really small cabin with a woodstove, but needed heat, so maybe you'll find my experience useful. About a month ago I installed a brand new jotul 602 in my 12x16 with a 13:12 pitch and loft. Right now I have r13 in the walls and rafters and just 1.5 of foam in the gable ends of the top. One wall of the cabin has quite a bit of glass, too. I used double-walled stove pipe from the stove to the chimney (almost at the peak) mainly to make code and manufacturer/industry clearance requirements. The dbl-walled has the benefit of not throwing off a lot of heat. I've only been to the cabin twice since the install, but so far it's been perfect. The stove is easy to regulate and it doesn't roast me out. I really think the key is the dbl walled stove pipe.
I hope this helps.
Btw, I watched Craigslist like a hawk for months and got the new jotul for $450, brand new!
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 09:22am
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Creeky- I don't know about the math with the Kimberley, why don't you ask them and see if they respond. It seems, though, that they have maximized what a wood burner can do. Any noxious stuff that comes out of any stove is unburnt stuff, wouldn't it be nice to burn it and get the btus. But most woodstoves are less efficient dampered down. So, isn't it possible to burn ultra efficiently at a slow burn rate? Apparently yes with the afterburner gadget (or whatever it is) they have in the Kimberley. I like the stainless construction, vertical design and low clearances. I'd sell my Morso 1410 and get this if it wasn't $3500. Maybe the price will come down if they ramp production.
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rmak
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 09:54am
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Tcmatt
Thanks for the post! I worry about the same thing (getting too hot). I did look at a Jotul 602 yesterday. It's great looking. I might get one on your recommendation for my 12 X 16. It's ironic that the salesman yesterday suggested double walling the stovepipe too to reduce heat.
Another thing my wife came up with is making a screen for the doorway area, making it more of a fireplace. The Vermont Castings we have in our home has such a screen. We've used it to reduce the heat as well as just to enjoy the fire.
Can you tell me about the installation? What distance from the walls, did you put a non combustible material behind the stove and pipe? etc.
Any advice would be appreciated.
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tcmatt
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 10:11am
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Rmak,
See "my woodstove & chimney thru metal roof install" under Members projects and photos. I just posted that a couple of weeks ago. There's a few pics there and I can post more here once my kids give me a break later today. I'm about 7" from rear wall, 16 from each side wall. In addition to the metal roof paneling with spacers, I used a heat shield behind the stove, because I knew I was a bit close and that works like a charm!
Matt
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razmichael
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 10:15am
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Quoting: rmak Another thing my wife came up with is making a screen for the doorway area, making it more of a fireplace.
Just check the installation requirements for a stove before planning this. We have a Vermont Casting wood stove at home - we needed to use a larger chimney pipe to allow it to be run as a "fireplace". Has to do with air draw etc. My or may not be applicable to other models.
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 10:53am
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Interesting site http://www.timmystoyota.blogspot.ca/
note his winter experience with the Kimberly
"Sure, I have to keep the tiny firebox stoked with miniature pieces of firewood every 3 hours"
" (it was -10 F outside and 70 F inside one night)" emphasis added.
"stove will run non-stop, 24-7, as long as I clean out the ash from the firewood every 14 hours"
now he's trying to heat a truck bed rv camper. So. No insulation really. and he attests to that with "it's cold as hell when I wake up in the morning" and "except it's not a shotgun... it's SO cold that pressurized cans explode"
I see new stoves at the big box stores have secondary burn chambers now... and over 80% efficiency. See Pleasant Hearth.
And I like this one. Summers Heat 1,200-sq ft Wood Stove. 8" clearance behind! 800 bucks with blower.
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neb
Member
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 12:05pm
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just
Do you know if the propane tank wood stove will heat up a small area? Have you seen or been around the one to see if it will work? I do know it may take more atention in adding wood to the box but that isn't a concern for me. thanks
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hueyjazz
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 12:28pm - Edited by: hueyjazz
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I'm not sure what you mean by propane wood stove but here is an example of a direct vent propane wall heater that may work.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200362089_200362089
There are a lot of factors if this will work for you. How much air intrusion related to how tight the structure is, cubic feet to be heated and insulation to maintain heat.
While this doesn't have the charm of a wood stove it does take a lot less real estate and you don't need to get up in the middle of the night to feed it unless you run out of propane.
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neb
Member
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 12:35pm
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hueyjazz
I didn't explain myself very well but I'm looking at making a wood stove from an old unused small propane bottle tank. If you google this subject you will see what I'm talking about. I want something small to heat an area about 100 SF for a day or an afternoon when I'm there. I was wondering if this small wood stove would heat up this area well enough and like I said it will create more attention then a larger one.
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hueyjazz
Member
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 12:55pm
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Neb
I did Google that.
Me, I would never trust a homemade device like that it inside a small wood structure. I've witness first hand how fast a fire can spread. It's not pretty and a cabin has limited egress.
The steel is a propane tank isn't design for regular heating and cooling. It is also not air tight. It's not a question of "if" this will fail but a question of "when" this will fail.
If your structure is tight then there's also a question of Carbon Monoxide (the silent killer) and oxygen depletion. For the same reasons I would never trust a direct vent propane heater or a kerosene heater either.
A 100 sf isn't much and they do make a smaller version of the direct vent heater. I think with your limited interior space the space this unit requires is desirable but you need electric to run the fan. I'm pretty sure there's versions that do not have the fan like this one.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200590096_200590096
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rmak
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 12:59pm
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neb,
I'm sorry to hijack the thread. I understand that you are looking for a propane tank woodstove, but now I have Tcmatt's attention I do have one more question for him. Wish we had a personal message function on this site.
Including the elbow at the back, the backplate and spacers and the stove itself, how far out from the cabin wall does the 602 sit? I'm thinking about building the floor up 10 inches or so to raise the stove and I'd need that info to build a proper sized hearth.
Thanks tcmatt and neb!
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neb
Member
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 01:04pm
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rmak
No problem you ask away I'm learning also. LOL
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tcmatt
Member
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 02:25pm
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as you may know, the 602 allows you to go out the back or out the top. I went out the top. the top of the 602 extends about 1/2" out from the sides of the stove. the stove tapers in toward the bottom, as well. the distance from the back of the stove top to the back of the stovepipe is only about 1.5". so here's the detail of my setup...
1/2" ply on the walls
6-10" inch aluminum flashing along the bottom of the walls and top of the walls
metal studs (from Menards) as spacers running vertically - creating 1.5" airspace
galvanized metal roofing screwed to metal studs
a woodstove heat shield from northern tool. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200339121_200339121
the distance between the metal roofing "wall" and the top rim of the stove is only about 7 inches. so, about 8.5" from the metal roofing wall to the stovepipe. The day after I got home from installing it all, i found online that galvanized metal can give off some type of toxic gas when is gets above somewhere in the neighborhood of 365F. This made me nervous, so I bought the heatshield and put it in place behind the stove a couple weeks later. I placed it right inbetween the stove and the wall - about 3" clearance to both the stovetop and the metal roof wall. I was there for 5 days and had the stove going nearly non-stop the whole time (it was in the 30's most of the time). A few times when it was really burning hot, I felt the metal roof wall all around my stove area and felt the heat shield. The metal roof wall was never more that barely lukewarm to the touch. in most places it was cool to the touch. the heatshield itself was warm. the area of the shield closest to the stove was hot, but the metal roof wall directly behind it was not - much to my delight/satisfaction.
I think this works for a couple of reasons. rather than just a 1" gap at the bottom, I went with a 3.5" gap. I also think the design of the heat sheild with the very large holes along the bottom help. All that airspace at the bottom really lets air easily flow/move behind the metal.
i sure hope this helps you. feel free to ask any other questions.
matt
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rmak
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 03:36pm
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"...feel free to ask any other questions."
You really opened yourself up with that one!
I appreciate all the info. After years of questions and doubts this has been an inspiration, really.
I was wondering about the prefab shield from Northern Tools. Would it be possible to buy two of them and using your spacer idea mount them one right above the other up the wall behind the pipe. I think that would take me from the bottom of the stove all the way up to the roof.
Do you think I could trim the top of the shield to match the angle of the interior roof line? I don't know the material it's made of.
Thanks. Probably more questions on the way.
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tcmatt
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 03:54pm
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the shield is just a sheet metal - steel - that I assume is painted with a high temperature paint. you could easily drill through it and use stainless sheet metal screws to screw them together. I don't know what gauge the steel is. It's not real thick - certainly less than 1/8" inch, but thicker that the roofing metal. Its curled at the top and that gives it a bit of structure. the sides fold in and are fully adjustable. It comes to you flat.
I would still mount the bottom shield up off the floor a few inches and not just rely on the big holes - but I tend to over think and over do things.
Regular sheet metal snips would certainly cut through the metal. Getting through the "curl" at the top would be the most challenging, but totally do-able.
matt
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rmak
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 04:14pm
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No harm in over thinking and over doing when it comes to fire.
Good advice about raising the shield. I'm thinking there wouldn't be a lot of heat at the bottom of the leg area anyway.
The place where I'm going to buy the pipe has sheets of nonflammable material. I just might run some of that up the wall behind the shield, just in case. Kind of like what you did with the roofing.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 08:00pm
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Quoting: neb heat up a small area?
I have not seen his work, but I have a home made stove I made even smaller than that and it will heat my camper about 100 SQ. FT.. You would want to protect the back wall and floor from the heat. mine has a 2 IN. muffler pipe for a vent,, a 3 in. would be better .. in my opinion it would do what you want { heat the place up a bit so you can take a break from hunting or fishing, a few times a year .}
If you were 2000 mile closer I would make you one it doesn't take long.
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neb
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# Posted: 1 Dec 2013 09:50pm - Edited by: neb
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Just
Thanks for the reply and I wish you where closer we could biuld and think up a lot of stuff to biuld. LOL I love building things instead of buying most of the time Here is what I'm going to get and I can do some adjusting and improvements to this unit. I would like to biuld one but I'm not good working with metel/iron. My question is what kind of material do I need on the back wall from the stove and what do I need to go through the roof? Also I will need something on the floor. Will I have to have wall covered all the way up te wall where the pipe goes up. I have plywood then just tin walls and roof? Any help would be appreciated very much. I will ahve more questions just like everything I do. Thanks
Here ii is: http://www.amazon.com/TMS-STOVE-2346-Portable-Military-Camping/dp/B002XNWC8A
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