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cbright
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2013 11:07am - Edited by: cbright
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I picked up a fairly big (50k btu) furnace from an old guy... supposed to work great. $50 ... couldn't pass it up. Probably end up using in my workshop, not the cabin.
Just not sure exactly how to hook it up and can't find info online. It is made by B.D. Wait Co. Ltd of Oakville, Ontario, Canada
I'm okay with the gas connection, just not sure about the venting/intake.
I have a great chimney from a pellet stove I can use... will probably make a bump-out on my garage so I can run it straight through the roof.
I guess, my main question is about the intake of air.... see the first picture of the two "pipes" .... I assume that's how it takes in air.
Just looking for suggestions on how safely put it all together.
Thanks!
Intakes?
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Furnace (not mine)
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Gas connection
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Information tag
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2013 04:34pm
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Can you contact the manufacturer to see if you can get a copy of an installation manual? Nothing like having that on hand to be sure you are using it the way it was designed to be used.
I haven't seen intakes like that, these days the units are mostly direct vent which has the intake and exhaust in a single pipe assembly. It's obviously better if you can take the combustion air from outside rather than use heated air from inside for combustion. That will effectively cause cold air to be pulled into the building through whatever source to make up the difference. But if the unit is designed to use combustion air from inside the building you need to be sure the building is large enough to supply the combustion air or else the unit will not have enough and be starved. 50 cubic feet per 1000 btus is the general rule.
But I'm getting ahead of the situation- first thing is to find instructions if you can, cause I have no idea how the thing is designed and intended to be used.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2013 05:21pm
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A quick Google and some reading reveals the BD Wait company has been out of business for over a decade, probably more like a couple of decades. So no help to be found there.
What you need is an old or elderly heating contractor, one who has been in business for a long time.
Another question I would want answered is whether or not the firebox is still in good condition. Furnaces do not last forever and firebox rust/perforation can be a big CO source.
Furnaces today must use outside combustion air if used in a residence, BTW.
It is hard to tell much from the photos, other than it does look old. Natural gas or propane? There is a difference; not all can be converted with ease.
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cbright
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2013 08:11pm
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Thanks for the responses...
Some useful info in it... and it appears it is just vented with a regular, small chimney. If I use it, it will be in a drafty garage so air supply shouldn't be a problem.
I started it up for the first time tonight, but could only get the pilot running... which stayed burning just fine.
When I turned it to "ON" (from pilot), the main burner didn't light, but I'm guessing it is because I don't have a thermostat connected.... I see a place to connect one. I'll either just jumper it, or connect an old thermo I have from my house when I put in a digital one.
If I build a bump-out for it, what I'll probably do is connect some flexible piping from those two intakes to an outside source for fresh air.
If anyone has any specific info, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
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Grantg82
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 12:45am
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I just got the same furnace as well and I'm wondering if it has a built in regulator or do I need to run one on the line from the tank?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 09:44am
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Some things, like cook ranges, have a built in regulator. BUT, they are always meant to be used with a pressure regulated supply from the propane tank or natural gas supply. In other words YES, you need a regulator at the propane tank. If there is a regulator on the unit itself it is only there to fine tune the pressure supply.
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fasenuff
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 11:38am
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If you decide to jumper it instead of a thermostat I suggest using a toggle switch in line to be able to shut it down otherwise you will be having to light it every time you want heat. I have used the 35,000btu version of the same heater and they do work great. Mine had a thermostat that was mounted on the heater.
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Grantg82
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 01:05pm
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Ya mines got one built on it too. I'm only useing 20# tanks for time being so I only light it when needed but it's not puttin out as much heat as I think it should but thinking now that it's prob just in need of a bigger tank. Think the tanks getting to cold
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 02:10pm
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Quoting: Grantg82 Think the tanks getting to cold
Yes. More of an explanation here
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Newf45
Member
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2018 06:50pm
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Can anyone tell me what kind of Thermostat to use on the Wait model NW-35 I have a toggle switch on it now but would love to put a proper Thermostst on there.
Thanks
Phil
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2018 08:54pm
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If you have a toggle switch on it now, then any basic 2 wire thermostat will work, even the old Honeywell Round. But any fancier 5 wire thermostat will work too, but you will only need a pair of wires to run this unit.
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Newf45
Member
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# Posted: 23 Sep 2018 08:53am
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Thanks do you know if there is still parts available for these heaters, just purchased this one and a real nice heater.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 23 Sep 2018 11:40am
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Its doubtful, the control box and the thermocouple (basic to most gas furnaces) I am sure is available, but probably no burner or cabinet parts.
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Newf45
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# Posted: 23 Sep 2018 12:23pm
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Thanks that’s the parts I was thinking about the control box and thermocouple, mine is in nice condition but always good to know that other parts may fit.
thank you so much and have a nice day.
Regards
Phil
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Dustsk
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2019 04:48pm - Edited by: Dustsk
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Where might I find replacement parts for thermostat and control box for a NW-20?
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2019 10:52am - Edited by: Aklogcabin
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My first thought is that one of the holes is for air intake the other for an optional blower fan . Wouldn’t make sense to have 2 air intakes especially that close.
A non electronic bi metal spring t stat such as the round ones would work best . All thermo couples , little bulb that overhangs the pilot light, are pretty much thsame. They have a gas in them that expands when heated increasing the pressure in the capillary tube going to the pressure regulator. Regular senses a pilot flame and opens the internal gas valve . T stat opens the circuit when temp opens the contacts . You should notice that when the t stat closes or you touch the wires together the pilot light will burn a little hotter increase the temperature increases the pressure. All temperatures and pressures are proportional. That’s why ambient temperatures effect internal bottle pressure. Also cold air does not get sucked in . Energy always go from greater to lesser . The cold air outside is pulling the heat outward. Kind of got on a physics roll there. Closing the internal gas valve . If you don’t see a lot of rust around the chimney outlet and you can shine a light down it you should be able to judge the integrity of the firebox. Propane doesn’t burn very hot but has a lot of moisture. Tap around on it . I’ve seen these stoves around quite a bit. I believe it probably is the same stove that could use fuel oil as a fuel source. Just using a different set up. So probably a heavier firebox than a stove for only propane because it burns hotter. Guess I’m saying put a t stat on it. Hook er up and get warm . Those were pretty good stoves .
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2019 11:05am
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I misstated, it is a gas control valve. If I remember correctly there should be some btu value marked on your control valve . You could check it against your nomenclature plate . To make sure if it was replaced it wasn’t over or under sized. Hope all that helps .
Have a great day too !
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Newfound
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2020 10:39am
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Just picked up a NW35 B.D. Wait space heater. Looks like a metal cabinet. My question being that this unit needs oxygen and given that my space is quite small, I was wondering if anyone has a picture or description of how one of these is connected not to the propane feed but rather to vent or chimney.
Thank you.
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Siroy69
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# Posted: 29 Nov 2020 09:49pm
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i have same model wait mw-50 just instal om my garage by gaz tech im run type c pipe indor 24 gage and type b pipe ok the roof working very good but im need a fan now someone os idea for remplacment fan thx (sorry im french so english not good haha )
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2020 08:28pm
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Iirc regarding propane gas appliances and regulators (different pressure than for natural gas) the old stuff often has spec'ed 9-15 inches of water column (that is NOT psi). If in doubt about the appliance having an internal regulator there is no downside to using the regulator at the cylinder (pref a 2 stage reg) or house reg if on a perm. tank and feeding it to the appliance.
The typical 11" WC from the cylinder reg. if feeding an internal appliance reg will still be properly regulated even though running on two regulators. Waayyy better than taking a chance and running unregulated cylinder pressure to an appliance!
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redheadfromns
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# Posted: 13 Mar 2023 10:48pm
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Hi there. I know this thread is now quite old but I am looking for information about a Wait heater and of course cannot find much online. I just found a brand new heater set up in a box in my dad's basement. Is this heater to code now in 2023 and does anyone have any info on it that they have found online? thanks
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