|
Author |
Message |
Aaron29
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 03:28pm
Reply
Hello folks,I am ready to install the electrical in my camp and have a few questions.I don't know to much about wiring so I am keeping the electrical system in the camp as simple as possible. Our electrical requirements are bare minimum.All I need to run power to is 4 plug ins and 4 lights with simple 2 way(on/off) switches.We will only be using a small generator (ie 1000w-2500w). I have been told to just hook it all up in a line.Here is what it needs to look like.
Into the cabin-outlet#1-outlet#2-outlet#3-light switch#1-light fixture#1-light switch#2-Light fixture#2-lightswitch#3-Light fixture #3-outlet#4-light switch#4-light fixture#4.END.
I understand how to run wire to a outlet then on to the next outlet and so fourth,what I am trying to figure out is how to run from a outlet to a light switch then to a light fixture then back to a outlet. I am useing simple romex wire(black/white/ground)
I have been searching all over the net to learn but I just cant find the diagrams/layman's terms info I need.
Thanks for any help! Aaron
|
|
Gregjman
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 06:14pm
Reply
If your using 2 conductor wire(black white and copper) you just run a piece of Romex from your last outlet into your lightswitch box. In that box you also have a switch and your wire coming from the light fixture. So you connect your white wires with a wire nut, your ground wires to the ground stud in the switch and your black wire run to each side of the switch. If you don't make it any more complicated than that, it won't be....
If you want to run more outlets in line after the switch without actually being 'switched' you need to split the wires from your last outlet befor you run to your switch box. So two leads coming from your last outlet, one to the next outlet, one to the switch box. You should be able to use small jumper leads off the outlet to split into two new leads with wire nuts.
I'm also not an electrician so be sure of what 'you' are doing regardless of what advise you take
|
|
neb
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 06:52pm - Edited by: neb
Reply
Maybe this will help also. Now if you wire your outlet box you can pig tail from there also to get your source. Then take that to the switch just like Gregjman said. This diagram shows all you will need to do the wiring you are looking for. Good luck.
|
|
neb
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 07:07pm - Edited by: neb
Reply
Gregjman I have a question for you. Some light switches have two brass lugs and a black lug which says (commn) and of course the green bare copper lug. Can I use that switch for a single pole switch to go to a light? I would use one brass lug source then use black lug to the light and of course hook up bare copper to the switch? Will this work just paid more for these switches verses a single pole switch. thanks
|
|
Aaron29
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 07:57pm
Reply
Great info guy's..Huge help!
The switches I bought don't have a green ground screw?
|
|
Gregjman
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 08:14pm
Reply
You might have a three way switch there. Better off just getting the single pole for the application you're using. They should cost less than a dollar at most big box stores.
|
|
Gregjman
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 08:15pm
Reply
If you don't have a ground stud just make sure you wrap your grounds in the box.
|
|
Aaron29
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 08:53pm
Reply
they are just simple up/down,off/on switches.I didnt even notice when I bought them that there was no ground terminal on the switch
So basically i am just "splicing" into the source coming from the last outlet box and shooting off into the switch/light,while the source continues off to the next outlet.
If its a little tight in the outlet box the safe thing to do is to use a junction box...correct?
|
|
neb
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 09:33pm
Reply
If no green screw just wire nut them togather. Yes on your second question and continue on to your outlet boxws. Yes you can use a junction box if you like but it should all fit in the box.
Are you going to be using all the outlets and light at one time?
|
|
Aaron29
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 09:46pm
Reply
Well,I will be using cfl's for lighting and I cant imagine that all of the outlets will be full and running at all times.Im my other cabin we have a extension cord coming into the camp,into a power bar and then a mess of extension cords.Now that I have built a "proper" cabin I would like to have actual switches and outlets.Only problem is I havnt done any electrical work before.So it's a steep learning curve for a thick headed, old bugger such as myself.
Do you forsee any issues with this straight line plan?
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 10:06pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
If you go from outlet to outlet and to outlet, then to switch and lamp, you will need to come from the switch to the outlet again, (unless you create your "Y" at the outlet) so one screw on the switch will have 2 black wires (cant legally wrap 2 wires around one screw, either get a switch where is has the clamp to slide wire under, then tighten screw or wire nut the pair together with one pigtail coming out of it while the other will have one going to the light.
It would be simpler for you to just daisy chain all your outlets, then run a circuit from one of the outlets to a light circuit. Do this on another outlet for another light circuit.
Just keep all the black wires on the gold screws, white wires on the silver screws and green wires on the green screws. Ground will only have one screw, so get the green wire nuts with a pigtail wire going out, you can hook all the wires together, then terminate it to a single pigtail for the ground screw.
Wrap all wires around the screw in the direction it tightens, strip off no more insulation than is needed. You do not want lots of bare wire exposed, only what is under the screw or screw clamp.
Leave 12" of the romex inside the box for extra, skin the jacket all the way off inside the box. 12" also for the outward run to the next outlet. Then fold the extra wire in a W fashion to fit it int he box. How many amps is the circuit you will feed it with? If its a 20 amp circuit, use 12AWG wire (yellow sheath) if its 15 amps, use the white stuff. You can use 12AWG on a 15 amp, but can not use 14AWG wire on a 20 amp circuit. You can use 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp circuit, the design of the 15 amp outlet will limit what can be plugged into it, ie wont exceed 15 amps. This will be just fine in your application. Will you use a small panel box?
Anchor the romex within 4" of the outside of the box, this is required/code. The romex staples are great, just dont mash them, jsut snug them down. Drill holes through studs in the center. Or install a metal plate over the stud to protect the wiring. (they have them made just for this purpose.
The switch you mention with a "common" or black screw is a 3 way (unless it has 4 screws, then its a 4 way) and you would use the common and one of the gold screws. But just make sure on is up. The switch wont be marked or labeled "on/off" or "top". I hate switched that are on in the down position, just drives me nuts.
And keep all your outlet grounds either all up or down. I like down. Dont mix them up. And keep all outlets at one level, ie 14" inches from the floor etc, and all switches at the exact same level, dont mix and match the height there either. Keep romex runs level, no zig zagging between studs. That is irritating to me too.
Your outlet and switch box is also your junction box. Use 14AWG wire if you are not exceeding a 15 amp circuit, much easier to work with than 12AWG.
|
|
neb
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 10:27pm
Reply
Shouldn't be a problem but can be if everything is being used and depending on the total amps.
|
|
Aaron29
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 10:57pm
Reply
I am not sure on the amps.I will be powering it with just a small Generator...http://www.hyundaipower.ca/hhd1250.php .
Currently we use only 4 23watt cfl's, phone charger,small stereo,and maybe a few other small draw things.I cant see us using anymore at the new camp with the exception of a small T.V occasionally.
I wasnt planning on using a panel as I was under the impression that for our small draw using a "straight from the generator approach" was sufficient.
I will be using the camp as my hunting and trapping headquarters and will stay for long periods of time but no big draw items at all,well besides a t.v.It's only 16'x16'
|
|
neb
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 11:01pm
Reply
Aaron29 Just watch what you use and not all at once. If I may ask where are you trapping and hunting at? I do some of both myself.
|
|
Aaron29
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2013 11:10pm
Reply
I am in Nova Scotia.I live in a very rural area and the cabin is back quite far in the woods.ATV or walk in only.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Sep 2013 01:06am - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
Quoting: Aaron29 I am not sure on the amps.I will be powering it with just a small Generator...http://www.hyundaipower.ca/hhd1250.php .
Aaron, use 14AWG wire (white sheath) will be just fine and easiest to work with.
|
|
Aaron29
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Sep 2013 01:06pm
Reply
Thanks guy's..Ill update when I get to 'er
Aaron29
|
|
|