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tcmatt
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2013 08:21pm
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I just installed two used propane lights in my cabin over the weekend. Both are connected to a single 20lb tank. One works great (and is closest to the tank) and one sputters a bit. The one that sputters is about 16 feet away from the tank and its wick has a nickel size hole in the bottom. Any ideas on why it would sputter. Is it as simple as replacing the wick, or might it have something to do with the distance from the tank? something else? I was able to get it to work at one point when the one closest to the tank was turned off. The copper tubing connecting it all is 5/16".
tcmatt
the good one
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the "sputterer"
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tcmatt
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2013 08:24pm
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i just realized that the coil of copper tubing in the back ground looks like it is connected to the light. It is not. It's just the left over hanging on a nail on the wall.
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beachman
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2013 09:13pm
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I have used 3/8 tubing that connects to the lights, but if one is running fine on 5/16, then the other should also. I suspect that your problem is the mantel (wick). These are usually stiff when you take them out of the box as they have a coating that is burned off at the first lighting. After that, they are very delicate and can break easily. There is also an air adjustment at the upper part of the light that you can spin to either let more or less air into the propane mix. This can quiet down an otherwise noisy light and should also be adjusted. Watch the heat as that adjustment nut can get very hot. It is just above the heat deflector. Use the proper mantels as Coleman or other soft mantels are usually inferior for this type of light. Hope this helps.
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2013 09:45pm
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I have no experience with this type of propane setup, but in general the longer any gas pipe is the more the pressure reduces. If long pipe is the problem the solution is to upsize the pipe diameter. If replacing the mantle doesn't work that's what I'd try. There ought to be a sizing chart for this kind of thing that correlates pipe length, diameter, and gas loading, just as there is for gas piping in the plumbing code.
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Just
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2013 09:51pm
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Could also be a dirty orifice [small hole that lets the gas out of the line
they are very hard to clean so you may need a new one .
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sparky1
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 05:48pm
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Just a idea?
when you "T'd"
the line to have (2) items working @ the same time---is that fitting a "Flare" or compression fitting? on doing a compression fitting you might crimped the line @ the cut-or over tightened thus crimping the ferrule, thus crimping off the Propane.,also when cutting soft copper piping,the cutter crimps the pipe.reaming the pipe a bit, might be required,My 2 cents.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 05:50pm
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The fact that the distant one worked correctly when the close one was turned off tells me you have a pressure problem when both are on. I'd upsize the pipe, and perhaps redesign the system so that both lights are the same distance from the tank, or close.
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MikeOnBike
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 06:02pm
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Quoting: bldginsp The fact that the distant one worked correctly when the close one was turned off tells me you have a pressure problem when both are on. I'd upsize the pipe, and perhaps redesign the system so that both lights are the same distance from the tank, or close.
Ditto
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SE Ohio
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 06:20pm
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Another thought- Could any water be settling at a low spot in the line? Often piping will have a dead end pipe with valve at the lowest point to capture (and manually eliminate) condensation.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 08:48am
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I have a number of the exact same lights throughout my cabin. They are all plumbed with 5/16 copper tubing, using flared connections. They all run off a 100lb propane tank with standard regulator. The propane plumbing also runs the stove/oven, on demand water heater, fridge and BBQ. The lights farthest away from the tanks run as well as the lights closest.
I agree with Beachman. You have to fine tune the adjusment screw for air flow, as well as use quality mantels with no holes in them. And like Just said the orifice can get dirt in as well, sometimes spiders can spin webs blocking the flow of gas. I have had luck using air to blow the orifice out and cleaning it up.
Half the lights in the cabin have been there over 30 years and still work great!
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tcmatt
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 03:19pm
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Thanks everyone. I'll start with a cleaning, adjustment, and new mantle and go from there.
As always, I really appreciate everyone's feedback. this is a great forum.
matt
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sugarriver73
Member
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 10:34am
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Over the years I've Installed any number of Hvac systems..Having said that..Anytime we have pressure problems it always boiled down too two things pipe sizing, or regulator defects. Good Luck.
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justincasei812
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 01:54pm
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Not trying to get off subject but I had the exact opposite happen to me.
I was at my cabin last weekend and when I lit the gas lights they sounded like jet engines going full blast.  I shut them down and waited a while after everything else was lit, propane heater (looks like a pellet stove) and I turned on the cook stove. I would light the gas lights every once in a while to see if the pressure had come back to normal and it took until Saturday night for them to come back down. What my thought was that a regulator was stuck open with all very cold weather (-17F Friday night without the wind chill) we have had. The stove and heater have built in regulators so I figured I was safe with those going. As I type this I think if I would have put some hand warms on or around the regulator it may have unthawed it enough to take care of the issue of it being stuck wide open.
Just thought this might be food for thought as we are talking about propane and gas lights.
Kevin
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