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Babysaph
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# Posted: 3 Jan 2013 02:38pm
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Hey guys, I was wondering if it was possible to use those big plastic water tanks buried in the ground for a water supply? I want to fill one and find a way to pump it into cabin for dishes and showers. I can use a hot water heater and a pressure tank just as though I have a well. Anyone ever done this?
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PA_Bound
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# Posted: 3 Jan 2013 04:12pm
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With a few assumptions, I see no reason why this wouldn't work. But how do you plan on filling it and keeping it filled?
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rockeater
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# Posted: 3 Jan 2013 09:10pm
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Sounds like a cistern. That is the route i am going to have to go on my land also.
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aktundra
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# Posted: 4 Jan 2013 05:57pm
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We commonly do that up in Alaska because of the water quality and often the cost associated with drilling a well.
I lived for several years full time with a 1,000 holding tank. We bury them to protect from freezing then use heat tape for the line to the house. Everything else is plumbed like a normal house.
UAF (University of Alaska Fairbanks) has a good publication from their cooperative extension site:
http://www.uaf.edu/files/ces/publications-db/catalog/eeh/HCM-04950.pdf
AKTUNDRA
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 4 Jan 2013 06:56pm
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If its not made for in-ground installation, you don't want to leave it less than half full. It may collapse.
I use a 700 gal in-ground tank due to the drought in my area.
Tom
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 5 Jan 2013 04:15pm
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Ditto what Martian said. Double ditto; I've seen them collapse when empty.
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ljohnsaw
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# Posted: 6 Jan 2013 11:01pm
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Talking with a well drilling guy - his recommendation is to use a septic tank - concrete. Reason being, when empty, plastic will have a tendency to migrate to the surface - pop up like a cork!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 6 Jan 2013 11:19pm
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I guess there is validity to that, but the real worry with underground plastic is collapse. The only pol tanks I know of that can be run down to empty are spherical in shape. Their shape keeps them from collapsing. All the loaf style tanks I've looked at come with a caveat to keep at least 25% filled. They all come with a warning about possible 'floating' in locations with high water table or ground that becomes saturated at times of the year.
I would also give some thought to what the water may do when in the concrete tank. Unwanted minerals may be leached out of the concrete. There are methods used to seal concrete used for potable water though. A lot of what may be necessary will depend on the quality of the local water.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2013 12:46am - Edited by: TomChum
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Quoting: ljohnsaw plastic will have a tendency to migrate to the surface - pop up like a cork!
If the ground is completely saturated an empty tank would have the same buoyancy as if it was submerged in a lake. A submerged 1000 gallon tank has a bouyant force of 8,000 lbs trying to push it up. That's a LOT, like the weight of a Cadillac. If the ground gets saturated repeatedly an empty tank can incrementally work its way to the surface.
Whenever the outside water table is above the inner water level, there will be a buoyant force. A buried tank should be on a gravel bed, and ideally a gravel bed that can drain.
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rayyy
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2013 06:39am
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I have mine set up on a small enclosed porch.The tank is butt up aginst the cabin wall and boxed in with insulation blown in on 5 sides.The six side has an open vent through the wall to the inside to allow for enough heat to the water tank to keep it from freezing.So far so good.I haven't had any problem with it but we haven't been down to any minus temps yet.I'm hopeing it works because hauling 5 gallon jugs of water from the creek was a major pain!
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Moving Pictures
Member
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2013 06:58am
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On the concrete tank: I'd consider sealing the inside with an epoxy thinset/grout.
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2013 07:40am
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When I was looking at different types of tanks, the septic tank guy said septic tanks weren't good for water storage because of some kind of bacteria that lives in the calcium used for concrete. He had even tried coating the inside with different epoxies, but it still showed up after a couple of years. I went with the polyethylene tank.
Besides, there isn't much cost difference between poly and concrete tanks, but the poly tank is a lot easier to work with. Much of the cost associated with a cistern system is in the pump and digging of the hole to place it in.
Tom
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