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TomChum
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2013 02:34pm - Edited by: TomChum
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Hey TMT,,, For the supply, the input amperage is all you have to worry about; and the Hobart 140 specifies a 20A circuit which is a 'normal' plug, not the 30A style.
"By the numbers", the PAIR of Hondas (26.6A) exceeds the requirements (20A) by a lot. But one of these days I'll do a real test. Got a project you wanna do out in the woods?  I'm planning to make a skidplate for the tractor.
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dk1393
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2013 03:30pm
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I have a holbart 140 at work. I tried using it with the honda 2000. It kept tripping out after a moments use
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2013 05:03pm
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I have a Matco 160 amp, it is 220V, but on fuil power, only comsumes 28 amps. I have b y large Honda 6500, I can weld anywhere.
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optimistic
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# Posted: 2 Jan 2014 10:01pm
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Anyone ever did a "light" carb clean using seafoam?
I read a few places that it is a magical product and I would love to do it but I i found several different ways of doing it and not sure what is the RIGHT way.
BTW.... I just love my honda. Best thing I ever bought. Simply perfect. I try to give it the best life it can have after buying it used. I change oil every 100 hours (synthetic mobile1) and I only run ultra premium gas in it with stabil.
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groingo
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# Posted: 2 Jan 2014 11:48pm
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With the Honda before I would use Seafoam and I suspected a carb related problem I would turn the gas off and drop the fuel bowl and clean the water and gunk out of it....trust me, it will be there as the Ethanol promotes corrosion especially in aluminum parts like the Honda carbs.
As far as fuel conditioner, Lucas makes an excellent fuel conditioner that not only stabilizes the fuel but cleans, lubricates (Ethanol removes lubricating quality from gas) and prevents Oxydation and treats 50 gallons for under $10.00.
I use Lucas products in all my cars and equipment and it does work as advertised plus you can speak to them....what a concept!
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gryphon
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2014 01:13am
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Hi, I'm new here. Recently bought a used EU2000i and got a crash course in carb cleaning. Unit had been stored for two years WITHOUT gas.
Started easily but wouldn't run for more than a second or two. Dealer told original owner it needed a new carb, That's how I got it cheap on ePrey.
Long story short, the carb was spotless except for the passage that feeds a row of very small holes near the throttle butterfly. I suspect those holes are the source of most of the carb problems that folks have with these generators. Shutting off the engine and draining the float bowl is going to leave a drop or two of gas in those holes, and over time that fuel is going to varnish them.
I also heard about Seafoam, but at $10 vs. $2.99 for regular carb cleaner I went for the cheap stuff.
There are two ports at the choke area of the carb throat. Flush them well with carb cleaner. If I am not mistaken, the one on the right goes to the ports near the butterfly. It may take a while for the crap to dissolve, but keep it wet with carb cleaner. It took about an hour to finally get the crap out of mine. As the ports cleared the engine began running a bit longer and finally with a shot of cleaner while it was stumbling blew the blockage out and started running as smooth as silk.
There is a two wire connector below the shutoff switch, behind the maintenance cover, that has green wires. Disconnect this connector and the ignition is always live. Turn off the engine and it will run for about 2 minutes and consume all the fuel downstream of the shutoff, clearing the pump, fuel line and carb. By running the engine out of fuel you will drain the fuel from the troublesome ports in the throttle bore. For long term storage open the bowl drain as well.
To start up, turn the switch to run, open the vent and wait a few seconds for the line to fill to the pump. On my generator it then takes about 6-8 pulls to start if I didn't drain the bowl.
Hope this helps.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2014 01:49pm
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Running the engine out of fuel by turning it off and waiting for it to die is really not a good idea. It only runs low enough to stall the engine, still about 1/3rd full in the carb bowl area. The best way to store a carb is either completely empty and dry or plum full, plum full would mean turning the fuel on periodically to compensate for normal carb evaporation (a good option for under a years storage in a cool dry place) . Its a good idea to add sta-bil to the tank of fuel that will be stored with. Then run the engine to make sure the fuel that is in the carb has been treated. The either fully drain it or do the carb refill method I mentioned every 2 weeks or so.
But the best thing to so is if you peek under the service cover, there is a small screw at the bottom of the carb, this is actually a needle seat and opening it up fully drains the carb bowl area and through a clear vinyl hose that drains to the outside of the generator housing. I'd open it and leave it open, just put a reminder to close before turning fuel on when you take it out of mothball. This will ensure carb bowl is empty and all dried out.
Yamaha gennies tend to tout there "fuel shut off and engine shut of are separate" as being superior for just the reason you mentioned. But the Honda set up is really the superior set up as you does both with one motion, shut off engine plus fuel, and you always have the fuel off when the generator is off and the fact running it till it dies leave the carb 1/3rd full and any air in there means moisture and air space is needed for that green stuff to occur that old gas leaves behind.
If you shut a Yamaha genie off and forget to shut the fuel off, it can fill the crankcase with gas, leak out in storage, leak in whatever your hauling it in etc. Its always 2 steps. Inferior, but the Yamaha is still a super sweet unit also. But it has a fuel gauge.  (Honda, you have to remove the cap and look in, but I just fill mine in the AM, runs till eve and I shut it off, never ran out of fuel yet.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2014 01:55pm
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech I have a Matco 160 amp, it is 220V, but on fuil power, only comsumes 28 amps. I have b y large Honda 6500, I can weld anywhere.
Update:
Got a Snap-On MM250L "muscle mig" welder. Runs either 10 lbs or 30 lbs spools, rated for 270 amps or 180amps at 100% duty cycle, does TIG also and also has the detachable suitcase to haul a long ways from main unit, for welding way inside of something. I still have my Matco 220V MIG too.
It can accept a spool gun also, great for aluminum welding.
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aktundra
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# Posted: 30 Sep 2014 04:16pm
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I'm just updating this thread based on experience.
I use my 2000W Yamaha Generator (EF2000iS) extensively around the cabin. I have started building another project (sauna). I anticipated needing a bigger generator to build the sauna. I bought a Generac 3300W thinking the Yamaha would be over tasked. This was a big mistake. Since it costs so much to travel to the cabin, I didn't want a working trip to be wasted and bought the Generac. The Generac doesn't do much better than the Yamaha and is heavier and less fuel efficient. If I really need more watts, paralleling two Yamahas would be a better option. The Yamaha 2000W generator has handled everything so far. The Generac kept tripping the 15A circuit breaker with the Delta chop saw.
Here's what works with the Yamaha:
- Bosch Circular Saw (CS5 120-Volt 7-1/4-Inch 15 Amp)
- Porter Cable 6 Gallon compressor (using with Hitachi R83A3S Framing Nailer and Porter Cable Finishing Nailer)
- Cheap Delta Chop saw cuts, but demands more of the generator
- Bosch Router
I had the SkilSaw circular saw and the yamaha generator had issues. The Bosch certainly puts the generator under a load, but I couldn't make a long cut on plywood with the SkilSaw before the generator became overloaded.
Hope this helps someone else building off-grid. I know I searched for the right tools. Since I bought most of my tools with out thinking about building off-grid, I didn't check amperage/total wattage. I recommend sizing your tools to the generator if not already purchased.
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bobrok
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# Posted: 30 Sep 2014 07:17pm
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I'll do the same...
I am as far from being an expert as one can be, but fwiw I just bought an el-cheapo Chicago Tool compound sliding mitre saw (rated at 15 amps) and it ran w/o any issues off my EU2000i.
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curtis_37
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2014 03:28am
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Thanks dear for recommending such a fantastic generator. Last month one of my friends was looking for generator as well as Honda lawn mowers Atlanta dealers but wasn't sure which model to go with. I think if he hasn't purchased yet, I might have something to show him.
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MJW
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2014 09:32am
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Quoting: curtis_37 Thanks dear for recommending such a fantastic generator. Last month one of my friends was looking for generator as well as Honda lawn mowers Atlanta dealers but wasn't sure which model to go with. I think if he hasn't purchased yet, I might have something to show him.
Anyone smell a ham and pork shoulder product?
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2014 10:36am
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Quoting: MJW Anyone smell a ham and pork shoulder product?
Yes, I do. 
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bobrok
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2014 04:06pm
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Hey, wait! The dude called me 'dear'!
Give him a chance!!!
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