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smitty
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2011 02:32am
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I am just asking before I start making phone calls.
Is it possible to rent a portable water well drilling rig?
I have seen them online, you can pull behind your truck, and you set it up, and start drilling. But, I am wondering, if anybody knows if tool rental places, rent them? Or if it is a specialty item, that most places wont carry in stock for rental.
I need to drill a well, and install a hand pump, I;d like to do it before winter, but if not, I have to get it put in this spring (I know, already planning for spring).. I need to figure this out.. A big pro rig, can NOT make it to my property, not even a chance. I have to DIY..
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fpw
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2011 07:47am
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I have the same issue, can only access my property by ATV. I will be pounding a sandpoint by hand.
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2011 08:38am
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Is there a way to test to see how deep your water table is before you start drilling or pound a sandpoint. I've heard if you are doing a sandpoint you can only pump water from a certain number of feet. We want to do the same but not sure about a well vs sandpoint.
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fpw
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2011 09:35am
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Test via Water-Witch. Neighbors dowsed, drilled their well, and got water about 18 ft. You certainly want to make sure you have an idea of what might be down below. If you pound a sand point 20 feet and hit a big rock, well, at that point, you are starting over with new materials.
I am up on bluff that has a great deal of swamp and marsh close, should get water within 25 feet. Any more than that, I think a sandpoint would be out.
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smitty
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2011 07:21pm
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I'm almost positive I can find water, we have a creek running through the back of the property, and water everywhere around us. It's finger lakes area, water water everywhere. But like you said, might hit a rock, and have to start over.
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smitty
Member
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2011 07:24pm
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Is there a hydraulic tool for the job?
Or is digging a starter hole and pounding it by hand the easiest thing to do?
And say I get this thing in, put the pump on it, and pump till I get clean water.. Then what?
Do I need to have it tested? Or chlorinated or?
What do I need to do to a shallow well to keep it safe and clean?
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PA_Bound
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2011 08:44pm - Edited by: PA_Bound
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I looked through a catalog that I picked up at the local rental outfit last weekend, but didn't see anything about well drilling equipment. It would still be worth a phone call to the rental shops in your area however, as they may be able to put you in touch with someone who specializes in renting drilling equipment if they don't. Or buy one, drill your well, then resell it on EBay when your done with it (or it could be a business opportunity if you bought one and simply rented it out to others on this forum ;-) ).
I've never used a sand point to drill a well, but from what I know you are on the right path- dig a starter hole then evenly pound it in. Those wells run fairly shallow, but regardless of depth I would definitely get the water tested before drinking it untreated or at least unboiled. Bad water can make you *really* sick. Ol' Montezuma has no problem projecting his revenge north of the Rio Grande!
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TomChum
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# Posted: 21 Aug 2011 11:34am - Edited by: TomChum
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I am interested too, as I can't get a drill rig in either. I can't imagine a place renting them though, I think easy access to drilling eqpt would cause a lot of problems with water-rights, at least it would in our area. Probably not in a "finger- lakes" topography.
You've given me an idea...... If you can can get water in less than 20 feet, maybe try modifying a post-hole digger? Start with smallest diam, Adapt some extensions and keep going down? These are not very expensive, and I bet I could sellit after I'm all dug. I will look into this.... If anyone has experience please share.
If its irrigation runoff you should be concerned.....get it tested, Cuz' if it's clean, you're done. It cost $25 where I'm at.
Idea: you might test nearby surface water, and see if there's hope for clean water below. $25 might be a small price to pay before digging a hole.
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smitty
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# Posted: 21 Aug 2011 05:48pm - Edited by: smitty
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$25 for testing, that's not so bad, I was expecting it to cost a lot more.
I have watched videos of guys using a hand auger, post hole digger.
If I find the video I'll post a link, but it was a T handle, with a cup on the end basically. They got down so far, and added another section, and kept going till they hit water.
I didn't see what they did after that, but I assume they put pipe in the hole and a pump on the end.
Here is it I found it
If I can find one at a rental place, maybe an air hammer for fence posts would be good for this job.. Like this one
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fpw
Member
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# Posted: 22 Aug 2011 12:20pm - Edited by: fpw
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There is a decent photo of a sandpoint rig at this link:
dnr.wi.gov/org/water/dwg/pubs/DrivenPointWells.pdf
Basically, you drive pipe, and couple on a new section when the length of pipe you are driving is down to ground level. A cap is installed on the driven end so you don't mess up the threads and can thread on the next section.
Sand point drivers can be a simple as sledge hammer or your could set up rigging and some type of knocking device to make the work easier.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2011 11:38am
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Excellent info, pdfs and videos, thanks!!! I'll look for more and share too.
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Diggerh2o
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# Posted: 30 Sep 2011 02:02am
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drillcat.com - they have a Rental waterwell drilling rig rent section for the DIY person that is ready to get there water well dug.
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jjlrrw
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# Posted: 30 Sep 2011 04:18pm
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May years and two houses ago my neighbor help me put in a well to use for watering the lawn.
He had a large old wooden drill bit (just a bit larger then the pipe) it was welded to a 5' section of 3/4" or 1" pipe, he had a few more 5' sections of pipe that would couple together and a tee handle.
He witched me a location and we started to drill (only a few turns at a time) pull the bit out of the hole and knock off the dirt, added a section as needed, at 18' the bit came up wet and clean.
Made sure we had 18' of pipe plus extra and dropped it into the hole and pounded it another few feet.
It took about two hours time but was easier than pounding a well plus if you hit a rock you only lost time. Just be careful putting the pipe into the ground you don't want it to disappear, maybe have some sort of tee handle to stop it at ground level if needed.
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TomChum
Member
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# Posted: 30 Sep 2011 09:31pm
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Lots of great info on www.drillcat.com
The idea that any water that comes onto your property is 'yours to do as you please' is a little wacked out. Entertaining though.
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smitty
Member
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# Posted: 3 Oct 2011 12:30am
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Diggerh2o
Quoting: Diggerh2o drillcat.com - they have a Rental waterwell drilling rig rent section for the DIY person that is ready to get there water well dug.
Is this your site?
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jrbarnard
Member
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# Posted: 3 Oct 2011 11:04am
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My water table is about 500 feet, so I need a muuuuch better way to drill my own well :(
Still trying to figure that aspect out because water is king where I am at and they want 20k to dig it for me.
Russ
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easyshack
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# Posted: 29 Oct 2011 02:18pm
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Water is not always deep. who is telling you water is that deep?
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easyshack
Member
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# Posted: 29 Oct 2011 02:25pm
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Shallow water is softer and not hard. problem is water well contractors charge by the foot, so if they have a rig rated for 1000ft, thats how deep your water is. Infact water logs found on internet are not true in most cases. Well drillers do not get paided to regester well logs with state. When the 90 time frame gets down to wire, they act like a F student doing a test waiting for recess, they just guess and right down any thing. Also it is to there advantage to lie and show water to be deeper. SHallow wells do not pay motor home payments.
Infact the technology to drill 1200ft was not even used until the 1930's. Is your town new. I have even heard of drillers hitting water at 200ft, but drilling to 600ft and setting a 400ft dead leg casing below water table. your getting water from 200ft, but payed for drilling by the foot to 600ft. Yes, your right. www.drillcat.com has many great things to say about these subjects. Even if you do not want to drill your own well, it is a good idea to learn enough not to get double clutched by shanghi drillers.
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easyshack
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# Posted: 29 Oct 2011 02:31pm
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20k for well, and the only garantee is they cash your check before the sun goes down. If you have no water they will not tell you the crack head laborers used too much drilling mud, or screen did not go all the way down, they will just simply say, dry hole, pay up, and pay us again and we will move over and try again. This is why i choose to drill my own well, if i hit a dry hole, i am only out 2 or 3 days labor and 20 gallons of diesel, plus still have the rig to use or sell. At first i thought drilling was hard. After a few shallow holes, i getting things done and wells are pumping great. Remember if illegal mexicans and tatoo kings smoking crack can learn, surely a hard working American can learn too.
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jrbarnard
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# Posted: 30 Oct 2011 08:30am
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Well, I would drill a well in a heartbeat if I had the rig to do it.. but if they are right and the water table IS in fact at 500ft plus, then the rig I would need to drill that deep would be far too expensive and not rentable.
I would not care if it took me months to drill my own well, I'd still do it and then build my own solar-powered setup.
R
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easyshack
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2011 03:55pm
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where do you get the 500ft deep, from drillers that charge by the foot.
they always go deep, shallow wells do not buy motor homes.
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PA_Bound
Member
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# Posted: 5 Nov 2011 12:26am - Edited by: PA_Bound
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That's the problem with wells. You're never sure what you are going to get until you commit and start to drill. Based on neighboring wells (that they drilled), my well driller estimated I needed to go to 165 feet for a 10+ gallon/minute flow. We stopped at 230, with a whopping 1 to 2 gallons a minute. Good enough for a cabin, but not so good if I ever wanted to build something bigger (which I don't intend). I will give the driller kudos however in that he only charged me for the orginally estimated and quoted 165 feet.
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cowboy
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2011 10:42pm
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Well your right about drillcat.com i rented a trailer rig that will go anywhere your truck will pull it and dug a 6x10 ft pit to hold water to mix my benonite and it came with pumps for pit to pump water to the drill pipe and push dirt out of borehole and into pit to recirculate water it was a great thilling DIY type set up and it has a different plate for the caseing pipe that holds pipe then you glue it and lift it about a inch and pull plate out and let it down and push plate in and let the 4in caseing set on plate and then glue a sch#40 pipe on and let it down do the same thing till all is down then you can pour gravel down side of 4in pipe about 4 bags of #1 gravel pack sand and then seal top with concrete and thats it . Get a water pump or a air compresor and put a poly pipe coil and let it down to bottom then apply air or water and flush all the dirty water out until it is pretty clear and thats it . I drill a well and have about 40 gallons a min .Im a happy camper now. And all was done in 3 days complete.
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jrbarnard
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2011 10:57pm
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How far down did you drill and do you mind if I ask what it cost for the rental? I may go that route, but I have to drill like 500 ft :(
I really want a well, but 20k is out of my reach atm.
R
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smitty
Member
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2011 03:10am
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Quoting: cowboy i rented a trailer rig that will go anywhere your truck will pull it
Where did you rent it from?
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easyshack
Member
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2011 09:59pm
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How is it people get stuck on 500ft or any other number. Drilling a hole even 1000ft does not mean you hit water. When drilling your looking for water formations when logging the cuttings. Drillers like to make people think they have to go deep.
I have seen water at 100ft, but driller went to 450 ft to make the cash. even though the casing is to 450ft, the water is drawn from the 100ft auqafier level. the other 350ft is just dead leg casing, the screen is at 100ft where water is. 100% of home owners know nothing about drilling, this is why drillers only work 6 days a month and all drive new electric window 4x4 1 ton 50k trucks.
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jrbarnard
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2011 06:23am - Edited by: jrbarnard
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It's easy to stick on 500 ft... see, we ask around as to what others drilled, we look at the water tables, showing the Edwards Aquifer at about 550ft.
Yes, you can hit it at 100 ft. What "I" am stating is that the "expected" cost is based on 500 ft.
I have one guy that would drill till he finds water and comes highly recommended, but I do not plan on 100 ft.. I plan on 700 ft.. and hope it is like everyone else around me and at 500 ft but would dance a jig if it was at 100.
It's just a number.. really, not that huge a deal.
R
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Jared
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2011 10:53pm
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This thread is right up my alley. I've read all the posts and started looking around on the internet and one thing stands out to me: I have to have water to drill for water. Really? So, if I build my own well drill (I'm a very good and experienced welder), where am I supposed to get water? The road to my property has a very tight 180 degree switchback, so big trailers are out. How's a person get water to their land to drill with?
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smitty
Member
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2011 03:15am
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I have had the same conclusion, for drilling a deep well.. I assure you, you are not alone.
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Jared
Member
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2011 12:19pm
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I've searched for those plans from drillfab.com (or something like that) and it led me to Amazon to purchase. It's out of stock and I can't find it anywhere. Dangit.
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