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Rover
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# Posted: 15 Aug 2024 17:12
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Hi everyone
We currently have a 3.4 CF Unique fridge/freezer at our cabin. Its having trouble staying cool. I've cleaned out the jet and the chimney over the years and it helps only a bit. There is plenty of circulation space around it, in my sea can. My sea can doors remain open. I'm thinking these propane fridges function well when they sit in 21 C rooms, which we don't have.
We also need a bigger fridge, maybe 10 cubic feet. Anyone know of a powerful and/or better insulated propane fridge that functions in a warmer environment? My cabin is in Muskoka Ontario.
I'd hate to buy another weak fridge. I am ready to make some improvements such as adding insulation at the sides & top and adding fan to blow the rear fins (not effecting the flame).
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ICC
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# Posted: 15 Aug 2024 18:40
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You may simply be operating the fridge in too hot a location. Ample clearances around the box are not much good if the air is very hot.
Question: How hot is it in that Sea Can?
Q2; do you vent the hot burner exhaust to the outside?
Contrary to what you may read in many places and be told by many people, it is quite possible to make the unit cool better by restricting how the air moves up the backside of any propane fridge. The main key to getting a propane fridge to cool with best efficiency begins with being able to remove the heat from the condenser coil on the back exterior of the fridge. That's usually the uppermost tube coils that is positioned horizontally near the top of the backside.
When there is too much open space behind that coil cooling performance can be less than expected. Propane fridges work best when air enters through a low vent, in the floor or near the fridge bottom and then rises THROUGH the coils of the condenser. With too much free space behind the condenser too much air bypasses the coil and takes the easier path through the empty space. That does not help cooling. Then there should be a clear directed path for the heated air to rise straight up and out. Venting through the wall behind the fridge is often done and the bends the air must take can reduce airflow. The best RV fridge installations use through the roof chimney vents.
Often securing a board, or a strip of XPS foam insulation to the wall behind the fridge directly behind the horizontal condenser coil can force the airflow through the coil. Baffle material placed on either end of the condenser and at any spaces at the fridge sides can assist in directing the upwards airflow through the condenser. Better airflow = better cooling.
IMO, the best propane fridge is no longer made. The Servel 400 worked well. Mine still works well. It makes ice, and keeps things in the freezer frozen solid. Unfortunately, its old burner design was also prone to being a hazardous CO producer. Many people in the US and Canada have died because of the CO. I still use mine. To make it safe I built the backside into an enclosure that is sealed from the cabin interior and is well vented to the exterior.
IMO, it also helps things a lot if the burner exhaust is vented to the outside and has its own fresh air intake down low, but not positioned to where drafts from the outside could affect the flame.
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Rover
Member
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# Posted: 15 Aug 2024 19:10 - Edited by: Rover
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Thanks ICC. Its in the best location I have. I don't want it in my cabin for the safety reasons you mentioned. It sits on a shelf in my sea can 8' from the doors. Sea can is mostly shaded by trees but yup, it still gets warm in there. I think you are right and improvements can be made.
Before I try to vent the warm combustion air (I hate cutting up the sea can roof/walls), I'll improve on the cooling of the condenser coil. I'll cut a hole in the wood floor, install a computer type fan to suck from the cool forest ground and duct it up to the coil. THX
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Brettny
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# Posted: 16 Aug 2024 09:46
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If it comes down to having to buy a new one for the same cost you can build/buy a solar system and a standard 120v fridge. Theres plenty of nearly new cheap fridges on the used market along with cheap solar pannels.
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Rover
Member
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# Posted: 16 Aug 2024 11:34
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Thanks Brettny. We have a solar power system with very good amount of battery capacity, but we can't seem to collect enough sun. We have very tall majestic trees near the cabin so we can only harness the sun approx 11am to 3pm. I'm in the process of doubling the solar panels and will see if that helps at least with maybe buying a chest freezer that operates as a fridge. Then we have options for long term stays, big parties or cloudy days.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 16 Aug 2024 12:34 - Edited by: gcrank1
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Have you taken a look over on diysolarforum.com? Lots of good stuff and experience to draw from.
In much of N America the prime solar hours are 10am to 2pm (or stretch it to 9am to 3pm) not much diff than you have. The far to E or W fades in effectiveness though any/all elec generated by solar is good when you are on the edge. The sep arrays and scc's avoid production fall as panels become shaded (Any Shade Really Hurts).
Imo, having separate arrays with their own scc and oriented to the SSE, S and SSW (if possible) will max your intake.
As a for instance, I have very good SSE and S until 2 when the tall trees start cutting me off. My best is with most panels pointed Solar South (not magnetic south) and S-SE.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 16 Aug 2024 13:50
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Quoting: Rover We have very tall majestic trees near the cabin so we can only harness the sun approx 11am to
Same problem here, plus hillside. This time of year no problem but in the off seasons I have to charge my bank (500ah) with a generator putting in 75a for half an hour or so. That keeps my 4a fridge going along with lights,TV etc.. the 25 panels still help a bit but not like the 25a they kick in during the sunny times.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 16 Aug 2024 14:07
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My temporary solar setup used 3 235w pannels and only saw sun for 3hrs total. I ran a 4.5cuft mini fridge fine with just 6 GC 2 golf cart batteries.
My sun exposure was so poor I would get better gains when the trees had no leaves even though the sun was low.
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Rover
Member
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2024 11:48
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Thanks for those latest replies. It got me thinking, I could supplement my current solar system by adding solar panels to my cabin roof which catches some southwest and southeast sun. They will be buried in snow in the winter but I won't have the power draw of a fridge in the winter.
And look into buying a enerstar-rated upright freezer than can run as a fridge. I see Costco has a couple. (ya, we know chest freezers consume less energy but we dislike digging thru our foods.)
Thanks everyone.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2024 12:30
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Quoting: Rover fridge.. (ya, we know chest freezers consume less energy but we dislike digging thru our
I hear ya there. As well and efffiecent as my cabin fridge works, it’s basically a top lid box. We bring a weeks worth of food at a time, and shuffling/emptying things out every meal is a chore. Makes me miss the grid fridge at the house with shelving. Probably look at dorm style units when this one goes.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2024 13:11 - Edited by: gcrank1
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Being 'over-paneled' is the way to go. Right now used panels are considerably cheaper than a few years back, check local online 'sale' sites (like marketplace, Craigslist, etc) so you can look em over, maybe check the outputs and haul yourself (shipping can be a killer). Buy a couple extra as spares.
Go for higher wattage panels, like over 200w min, the old 100w are completely outdated now, pretty much 'starter kits'. Yeah, they will 'work', but you should be looking forward for energy production not backwards at old tech.
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