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paulz
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# Posted: 23 May 2024 02:12pm
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My inverter has 2 USB ports. I have another usb bus I normally use but these are handy. They have quit working. No external fuse, nothing about one in the manual (does say 2.4A usb max). If I pull it apart will I find a fuse inside, anybody been in one? Don’t want to mess up its main function, my general outcome for screwing with electrical devices.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 23 May 2024 02:23pm
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Without knowing what Make/Model etc of Inverter there is no way to give any sort of response. There are a few out there with USB ports for setting them up but not much more. I recall a Chinese one that used a USB port to connect it's interface but it wasn't a proper "USB" as such, they just used that plug, like how some use RJ45.
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paulz
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# Posted: 23 May 2024 02:36pm - Edited by: paulz
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Oops, sorry Steve. You can see the usb ports on the front. Flamezum. I used one port to charge my iPhone the other night, maybe too much..
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 23 May 2024 03:52pm
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Looked it up. The USB is just simple power, not programming or other uses. Gotta be careful these days. The specs are a surprise and TBH I do not think I can believe them. The efficiency is certainly NOT 98% !! That is Tier-1 Level and the component cost & engineering to do it is not cheap.
ANOTHER GOTCHA: It Appears that they are simply "Unavailable" anywhere and that in itself raises questions.
The posted spec for USB says 3.4A max, I'm wondering if that is for the PAIR concurrently and if so, that would not be too useful.
SPECS:
· Wave form: pure sine wave (THD?3%?
· Power (3 AC Outlets): 4000W Rated, 8000W peak
· Max Efficiency: 98%
· USB output: 2 x DC 5V/3.4A(max)
· Nominal input voltage: 12V (9.5-16VDC)
· Nominal output voltage: 110-120VAC (+/-5%)
· Internal fuses: 40A
· No load draw: 0.6A-1A
· Battery cables :1 pairs (1 x black, 1 x red) with length of 2.62 ft.
· Cooling fan: Temperature control (near 113 ? will on automatically) & Using Power control (up to 1/2 rated power will on)
· Remote controller: 15Ft remote controller cable, RJ10 Plug.
Fully safety protections:
· Input over-voltage shutdown: 16VDC±0.5V
· Input low-voltage shutdown: 9.5VDC±0.5V
· Over-heat protection: 65±5?
· Over-load protection: 4000W
About soft start technology
The output voltage rises up from low to normal when the inverter is turned on. This can reduce the attack of high startup currents, which can make startup easier of large inductive loads. As for the large inductive loads, such as electric tools and the capacitive loads, suggest turning on the switch of the appliance firstly and later the inverters. The soft-start works.
*THIS* Last Para is "interesting" - can't comment on that... 
I am TRYING to wrap my head around that statement, Turn on the High Surge device on 1st & then the Inverter ! So the Inverter Capacitors WILL do a Surge Pull on connection to battery to pre-charge the capacitors _AND_ simultaneously take the "Device High Surge Demand" along with it.
From a Lithium Battery Based point of view, ANY BMS would see that Surge Demand as a Short & immediately go into protection mode (Unless you have an expensive BMS that has Pre-Charge circuitry & logic for that). Old Lead Acid would just dump to it but NOT politely.
Ohhh well, Off to asses the Twister Damage and begin the long cleanup... A micro Burst swung though & hit my land here, my driveway is covered with fallen trees, 2 came down alongside the house (missed by 3" !) I see other BAD further along the property but was a tad afraid last night to get in there...
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paulz
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# Posted: 23 May 2024 04:38pm
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Thanks for taking the time to research it Steve. As I mentioned I don’t really need those ports, just kind of bugs me that used to work. Yeah I bought that inverter awhile ago, it was inexpensive. But it does work fine for my few uses, mainly toaster and microwave. Almost always off. There’s been some talk here lately about AC vs DC cabin power, and I suppose if and when my fridge and water pump go out I’ll replace with AC and get a better full time inverter.
Good luck with the storm cleanup!
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 23 May 2024 05:25pm
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There is most likely a fuse for those, but it may be on the board itself. Its pretty common to use a fusible resistor (looks like a resistor, but is a fuse). They usually don't blow with any visible marks (unless something goes really wrong). You need a multimeter to test them.
Unfortunately, without a board schematic you are relying on the silkscreen to try and identify the fuse (or reading the resistor bands). Probably too much hassle unless you really need those ports. However, a quick look inside might be worth it. Maybe you will get lucky and they used a glass tube fuse that is easily spotable.
P.S. Be careful if you do open up that inverter. Modern inverters do high speed switching and can generate high voltages (like 600V). Capacitors can remain charged for quite some time after disconnecting. A cap charged to 600V is definitely dangerous or at the very least will be unpleasant if you discharge it through you!
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paulz
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# Posted: 23 May 2024 07:45pm
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Thanks Trav. you're probably right as it does show large fuses in the specs above for the AC. If I ever have it down maybe I'll take a look.
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