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gcrank1
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2023 03:52pm
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Never messed about with MC4 connectors, my old stuff has MC3's and the little stuff SAE con's. The new 'system' from my friend has MC4's, as I discovered quickly they are most definitely not made to easily disconnect! Ive got an idea to slightly 'ramp' the locking lugs to pull apart with a slight depression of the tab. Anybody have ideas?
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travellerw
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2023 04:14pm
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Just an FYI.. MC4 should not be unplugged when they are under load. Make sure the panels are disconnected from the controller first (don't use the MC4 for that action).
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2023 05:27pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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Good reminder, and same for any array con's. And, yes, all the con's, parallel panels and them to scc are MC4's but the scc to bat is Anderson. With this 'portable' set of 2x100w panels it easy enough to throw a blanket over them to 'disassemble'. I so wish the po/builder had located the cabin 25' to the E and oriented at least a wall (if not wall and roof) to the S. I could have long ago hung any of my panels on the wall, maybe jacked the bottom out to the proper angle and had the wires run right in......
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ICC
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2023 06:07pm
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There is a tool that makes disconnecting MC4's easier. https://www.solar-electric.com/ditoformc4co.html
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2023 09:37pm
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Ha, I changed two cables out today. Not a bad idea to ease the connectors. I can still manage to get finger/thumb in there though, barely. I also have that tool around, somewhere…
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2023 11:25pm
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The tool Ive got broke, Im sure there are more sturdy tools but my understanding is the MC4's are not intended for frequent discon; more to function of being easy to connect and not come apart. Not the best connector for a portable unit, imo. My old MC3's are dandy to make changes, same with the smaller SAE con's for smaller gauge wire. Maybe Im too used to the automotive block connectors that you depress the safety lock tang and pull apart; even on vehicles running down the road they dont just fall apart if snapped together correctly.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2023 02:11pm
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My solar took a huge leap forward about two years ago. I got wind of a homeowner in a nearby town who bought out his solar lease, went back on the grid and gave me everything. Still got two grid tie inverters with no need.
I put 24 of the 260 watt panels on a shed I built with extra lumber awhile ago. 6 more panels are on the cabin roof (just visible below in photo). They’re all MC4s. They’re getting to be old now but I recently took one down, washed and tested in full sun and it still put out close to advertised amp.
I’m way over paneled but in my shaded woods, no more than a handful are ever in direct sun, about 50 amps is the most charge I have ever seen (my generator powered charger will do 80) IMG_1573.jpeg
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ICC
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2023 02:40pm - Edited by: ICC
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Maybe if you have a couple or more of MC4 connectors that you frequently uncouple you should make a few adapter cords. MC4 male wired to an anderson powerpole and another anderson powerpole to MC4 female. Connect it all up and use the anderson for quick and frequent disconnection/ reconnection. Then if you don't need to have the easier connecting at some point you can switch back to just the MC4.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2023 04:13pm
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Thats a thoughtful solution, ICC Paul, I have been totally Amazed that you have been able to make solar work at all given your ' location and conditions!
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2023 07:13pm
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I once had the not so bright idea that I’d put my solar at the top of a tree, 200ft up. Even hired a tree climber to mount a rope/pulley up there. Luckily that’s as far as it ever got. What about maintenance, wind, wiring? Well I hadn’t considered any of that…
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