|
| Author |
Message |
Fenny
Member
|
# Posted: 26 May 2023 01:51pm
Reply
We picked up a used Unique propane fridge model: UGP-6C at the end of last year and just boated it up to our island cottage this past weekend. When we went to start it up the pilot light would not stay lit. After troubleshooting with Unique they told us it's because there is a mandatory CO monitor that is supposed to be connected that is missing. The catch is that this monitor costs $300CAN! Now I don't need convincing that a good CO monitor is a must, we have multiple others throughout the cottage. The cottage is also a 75 year old huntish shack and basically looks like it was built out of whatever floated up on shore. It's drafty and has more air passage through it than our current PM has between his ears.
My question is has anyone bypassed or deactivated this system in the past? It just hurts to spend another $300 on top of what we already spent for it.
Please no "buyer beware" replies, I looked around but didn't catch this issue anywhere when I was researching the fridge. It is listed as coming with the fridge new but nowhere did I see it being a mandatory component that would inhibit regular function if missing.
Thanks!
|
|
Steve_S
Member
|
# Posted: 26 May 2023 02:38pm
Reply
Is that one of the fridges that requires a D-Cell Battery ? I believe the newer ones use a D-Cell to power the ignitor just like on the stoves.
|
|
Nate R
Member
|
# Posted: 26 May 2023 03:08pm
Reply
Do you have any of the components for that? Is M1 the only part missing, or M2 and M3 as well? (From their parts list in the manual)
|
|
Fenny
Member
|
# Posted: 26 May 2023 03:42pm
Reply
Thanks for the quick replies guys! I believe that the M2 and M3 pieces are already connected at the back of the fridge and only the M1 is missing. I suspect when the fridge was removed by the previous owner they forgot to give us the CO monitor.
I think it takes AA batteries, 3 or 4 for the light and one for the igniter.
|
|
Nate R
Member
|
# Posted: 26 May 2023 04:25pm
Reply
How old is this one? The M1 looks liek it has a lithium non-replaceable battery that will force replacement anyway around 7 years. This is to protect you, as the CO sensors actually wear out over time, too....
So, point being, maybe you'd have to buy a new M1 anyway....
I'm wondering if you can just jumper the 2 wires and see if that is it? I've used some CO shutdown devices before for other applications, and they're typically very simple circuitry for the output/switch/defeat.
|
|
FishHog
Member
|
# Posted: 26 May 2023 04:31pm
Reply
should be a simple "normally open or normally closed circuit". If its not working now, I assume its sensing nothing or normally open, so jumper the two wires and it should sense its closed and work.
At least that is what I'd try first.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 26 May 2023 08:11pm
Reply
Quoting: Nate R I'm wondering if you can just jumper the 2 wires and see if that is it
This is exactly what I would suggest you try before spending any money. At this point you dont even know if the thing works.
Does it also use a thermocouple? How long and big is your propane line? Fridges use so little propane that it may take many minutes to keep the system running by its self. It has to bleed out all the air in the propane line.
|
|
browncoatgirl
Member
|
# Posted: 28 May 2023 08:18pm
Reply
I have the exact same issue right now. I was gifted that fridge but the CO detector is dead and now the Unique one is just too expensive. If you do try to simply put a jumper and it works, could you post about it hahaha? Next weekend i was planning on getting on my hands and knees to figure out how to bypass it but if I just need a jumper, i'll save myself the trouble!
Thanks a lot!
|
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 29 May 2023 10:26pm
Reply
Im with FishHog, 'safety switches' often are easily bypassed for a service tech on site to troubleshot a faulty unit. You are basically fooling it into working by telling it there isnt a CO problem (which there isnt).
Also, as Brett mentions, if plumbed in LP to close to the unit c/w a shutoff you could hook up a small LP heater with a short connector hose to get gas flowing and the heater working, then shut off the valve. This minimizes the gas flow distance issue to the fridge. Hook the fridge line up and turn on the valve.
|
|
Fenny
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jun 2023 11:31am
Reply
Thanks guys, tried the jumper this past weekend and it didn't work. I had to leave but will be going back up next weekend. Going to have to try the manufacturer one that must be made of gold...
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jun 2023 01:26pm
Reply
You cant be the only one that has had to mess about with that. Keep searching for info on the 'net, its gotta be out there.
|
|
FishHog
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jun 2023 01:42pm
Reply
If the jumper didn’t work did you try just unhooked. Maybe it’s a smarter sensor but I don’t think so. It’s most likely just an normally open or normally closed switch. The jumper would be closed. If that didn’t work try open if you haven’t already
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jun 2023 05:08pm - Edited by: ICC
Reply
Replacement option?
https://www.thecabindepot.com/products/unique-carbon-monoxide-alarm-system-with-safet y-shut-off
|
|
Nate R
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Jun 2023 08:30am - Edited by: Nate R
Reply
That was mentioned initially by OP, but they couldn't/didn't want to spend the $.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Jun 2023 08:54am
Reply
Ooops. I never noticed or forgot. 50/50 chance on either these days.
|
|
Clipper
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Jun 2023 01:11pm
Reply
It is a very simple fix. Just unscrew the small part at the regulator that the wires from the detector go into (mosfet). And then reattach without it. Should take 2 minutes. I have done this to my Unique works perfect. The only thing you will lose is the indicator needle will no longer work. If you desire it to work you can order the part from unique and reinstall it in place of the MOSFET.
|
|
Clipper
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Jun 2023 05:17pm
Reply
This is the piece that should be removed and then just reattach the inlet to the main.
|
|
Clipper
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Jun 2023 05:21pm
Reply
The offending part.
|
|
browncoatgirl
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Jun 2023 03:12pm
Reply
Omg @clipper, you just saved me so much trouble! I thought that the thermocouple and the co2 detector were connected together on the valve ( as in could not be connected separatly). I just took off that piece and i now have a working refrigerator with a big freezer and i will be eating ice cream this summer ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜
|
|
beantbay
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Jun 2023 08:48pm
Reply
So what piece is this exactly. I don't appear to have a CO alarm but I recognize this piece and cannot get it to stay lit. Pilot works while depressing the gas button to start...
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Jun 2023 11:27pm
Reply
Im No Service Tech for this stuff, but.....
It is my understanding that the gas button held down bypasses the gas valve internal safety switch to make the pilot light run.
It heats the thermocouple which is supposed to open the gas valve safety.
Since it doesnt keep running after some 'heat time' you may have weak gas flow; ie, only enough to keep the pilot going during the by-pass. If the gas line leaked down from non-use it can take a while to get a full line again.
Note that the safety in the gas valve is supposed to close off the gas flow if the pilot flame goes out.
The pilot must be in the right position to heat the thermocouple; if it has been inadvertently tweaked away/out of position it wont function as intended.
They may also not work well if sooted up.
So, ensure you have gas in the tank and that it is getting to the appliance. Ive heard LP guys joke about how many times they find the tank valve shut off on a service call.
|
|
CheekieBandito
Member
|
# Posted: 7 Aug 2023 01:29pm
Reply
I can confirm removing this part will allow the fridge to operate.
Got to my place on the weekend to hear the CO detector beeping. First thought it was just the battery as I had it die on me last year. Replaced it but it was still beeping. After reading the back of the unit I realized the detector was at end of life. Wonderful…. My place is water access and in the middle of a 25 km long lake. Next day I head into town only to find out that the CoStar detector isn’t made anymore and no one seems to make them with a shut off except that RIDICULOUSLY priced unit from Unique! Ughh… luckily with some googling I found this site and thread regarding the issue. Removed the part this morning and the fridge is running again! So I’ll just add a battery operated CO detector were the old unit was… no more worrying about the fridge not working.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 7 Aug 2023 07:09pm
Reply
What Hoo! The S.C. Forum Team wins again 
|
|
Fenny
Member
|
# Posted: 29 Oct 2023 08:39pm
Reply
I'll confirm, removing this piece does the trick!
|
|
LakeHouse
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Jun 2024 08:28pm
Reply
Hey, just running across this after already finding another work around, so though I'd post it here...
My wife is up at our cabin without me and couldn't get the freezer to stay lit because of the post-end-of-life CO detector as noted in posts above. I had her get out the multimeter and do some testing:
When the CO detector is working normally, it applies about 6V to the circuit leading to the freezer. When it 'chirps' (indicating a fault), it cuts that voltage off, which causes the gas valve to close and not re-open without user intervention.
So... I just had her remove the CO detector and wire up the CO circuit to a 9V battery, Red wire to positive, Black wire to negative. Voila, freezer works and stays lit, and the needle indicator continues to function as normal.
I'll be bringing a new battery-powered CO detector with me to install in a few days.
|
|
|
