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paulz
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2022 10:35am
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Quoting: BRADISH Just to be clear, PaulZ would have gotten this for free or possibly had the seller pay him $20 for removal fee
I should start charging a removal fee, nine generators at last count. Only 4 see any usage, the well shack, cabin solar backup, shop utility and the little hand carry 1000i for mobile usage. The 3 freebies I've gotten, oddly enough the most valuable, just sit, too big for my needs.
I've read that two stroke premix neutralizes the negative affects of ethanol. The only thing I leave it in is my little mini-bike, and it seems to be fine year after year, but I wouldn't trust it in a chainsaw, I've replaced plenty of those carbs and hoses.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2022 12:25pm
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I was just wondering about that 2 stroke mix if done with non-eth gas (not the pre-mix) for 4 stokes? Im not that thrilled with Sta-Bil since it doesnt even last in its jug once you break the seal (or so 'they' say, maybe its just to get you to buy fresh?).
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 10:06am
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Well the "start module" came in and I got it installed.... gonna grumble here a but.
I can see having to take the side covers off the generator to do something like change out this start module but you have to take both the exhaust end and full side off, plus undo all the screws on that side on the front just to change the spark plug! Poor engineering! Add to that, to drain the oil, rather than the drain plug being right inside the little door where you check the oil..... oh no, it's off to the side just enough you can't get a socket on... so you have to use an end wrench, and, the hot wire to the starter is in the way so it is nearly impossible to get your hand in there to finish unscrewing the drain plug. I've been taking the wire off to create better access. Just really poor engineering. OK I'm done!
So, installed the start module and bingo, fires right up with electric start and the remote! I'm stoked! All in I have $290 in a $1,100 generator (On Amazon right now for $828... that's a good deal!) Runs great, very quiet and I just did the 5hr oil change. At 10hrs I'll switch to synthetic oil.
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 02:25pm
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Ok... I lied, unintentionally. To access the spark plug and air cleaner there are 5 screws and one of those plastic clip... that break off and did.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 02:54pm
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Ok, it runs now on gas....how about LP?
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Nobadays
Member
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 06:44pm
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Don't know on LP. I've tried twice to stop a propane leak where the bottle adapter screws into the regulator. No love. Tried pipe dope first, then yellow Teflon tape. Still leaking.
Not too important to me but at some point I'll come up with another regulator and bottle adapter then try it.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 07:29pm
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Bottle Adapter? Like for a 1# campstove cylinder?
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 08:08pm
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I don't know the correct name... the part that screws to the 25-30# tank. It's not leaking at the tank end but the other end of that brass that screws into the regulator. See picture
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darz5150
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 08:56pm
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is that a flared fitting where its leaking?
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 09:18pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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Typical regulator is just pipe? threads, the male end of that tank fitting screws into it, dope or tape should have worked unless maybe a crack?
Are you sure it isnt leaking at the tank end and backing the gas out the tale end of the plastic around the brass tube?
I have collected a few of those regulators and hoses off of scrapped out bbq grills at our town dump/'recycle center' I always carry a few wrenches to liberate stuff when the opportunity arises. The common reg's are all the same pressure and black plastic, if you see one that is red plastic it is a 'high-pressure' reg, dont use one of those to replace this one!
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darz5150
Member
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 09:59pm
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This is mine.
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Nobadays
Member
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 10:54pm
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Quoting: darz5150 is that a flared fitting where its leaking?
No threaded
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darz5150
Member
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 11:13pm
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Thats what I thought. But had to ask. Yours should be the same as mine I would think. But Ya never know.
Cranks right. Maybe a crack or something.
Pipe dope or tape can correct some crappy threads.
If you have another regulator, maybe give it a try. Or just re dope or tape what you have.
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darz5150
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2022 11:26pm - Edited by: darz5150
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Quoting: Nobadays I've also read that sometimes you can start a generator on gas then switch over to propane. Anyone use that method?
I've tried that. I couldn't get it to switch. It seemed like the 2 fuels were dead heading each other when I flipped the petcock. I did get it to work if I started it on gas and warmed it up, left the propane off, flipped the petcock and ran all the gas out. Then switched to propane, and it was fine. But the propane doesn't work as well in a cold temp.
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2022 08:40am
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I'm going to search/ask around to see if I can get my hands on another regulator. I have another tank fitting, old style male lefthand thread, that I took off my fridge line because the nut doesn't turn without a wrench making it a bear to start...l might try that one.
Quoting: darz5150 But the propane doesn't work as well in a cold temp.
Propane doesn't vaporize when it gets too cold. Funny story... we lived several years in NW China, think not far below the Siberian border... same weather. The busses all ran on Propane so during the winter when it was -25/-30 all day and night the busses would sometimes just stop dead in the road. The bus driver would jump out and start a fire under the propane tank!! Yes, rubber fuel line! The first time, we didn't know what was happening, the driver jumped out to do her thing, then all the passengers bailed! So we got off too, saw what was going on.... we joined the other passengers a half a block away at the nearest bus stop to wait for a different bus! Funny thing is, they often got it started again and everyone would run back and get back on the bus!
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2022 09:39am
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Beware the old 'bullnose' POL fittings into the 'new' safety valves, or at least look it up.
Iirc the old bullnose can irreparably damage the valve.
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2022 10:32am
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Quoting: gcrank1 Beware the old 'bullnose' POL fittings into the 'new' safety valves, or at least look it up. Iirc the old bullnose can irreparably damage the valve.
This one has been used on a new valve for a couple of years. Just got tired of fighting it.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2022 01:33pm
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Im trying to remember just what the issue is.....but I know I decided to only use the bullnose with the old style cylinders I still have, if at all.
Think it has something to do with that little cylindrical center part of the new fitting, it fits neatly into and depresses a valve in the safety valve. The old bullnose can damage that part that depresses?
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2022 04:06pm
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They are 2 different sizes where the end goes into the tank valve. Hmmm... didn't know that. Like I say it has worked with my tanks and two of the tanks I've used have brand new valves for recertification.
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2022 05:00pm
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Well put the best plug for this generator... per owners who have tried them all and it does start better. I usually use NGK in everything but this generator has proven itself to start better with a Champion plug.
The issue now is the battery MUST BE topped up to electric start. I was having trouble today getting it to start so put my battery charger on it and it only took about 5 minutes to fully charge. Took the charger off and tried to start it, worked fine. Let it sit for about an hour and tried it.... no love. It came with a trickle charger so plugged it in and went and ate lunch. So an hour later or so, fired right up on electric. It has continued to start whenever I try since it has been plugged in.
Started reading through the forum on this thing, apparently it should be plugged in all the time if you leave the stop/run switch on so that remote start can be used. The stop/run switch is illuminated with a incandescent bulb! After a day or two it runs the battery down. Weird.... or poor engineering again. Besides, isn't a generator used because you don't have power in the first place?! I do have power to my generator shed so I can plug it in but.... for backup when the power goes out sure, but for off-grid or camping no good. Will say it starts first pull nearly every time.
Got it cheap so shouldn't complain, but at this point I'd have to say I think my Harbor Freight Predator is hands down a better generator. (I did have to put an aftermarket remote start on it but still)
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2022 05:53pm
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Well, it aint a 'real' Westinghouse of long ago; not even likely the 'bought the rights' to use the name.
12v battery? If so just jumper cable up any spare auto battery you have and pull that hog of a bulb.
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2022 07:53pm
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Quoting: gcrank1 jumper cable up any spare auto battery you have and pull that hog of a bulb.
A good idea to use an auto battery... a lot more CCA. The buld is built into the switch, no pulling it. I have read that there is a wire you can pull but..... pull the wrong one and you burn up the computer motor control.
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darz5150
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2022 10:44pm - Edited by: darz5150
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Maybe think about a jump starter box if you don't already have one. That way you can use it for more than 1 thing. I have one I got from wally world years ago, that I can't believe still works. It has 2 cig plugs, 2 USB plugs, an inverter that will run a box fan for hours, a half ass work light, and a cheesy air compressor that most people might think is useless, but if you have a flat or low tire on the trail, it makes it easy to repair and inflate the tire.
Easier than taking the tire off and carrying it out, then fixing it, and carrying it back in.
Plus it has a handle. Lol. Much easier than picking up a car battery.
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2022 08:48am
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Quoting: darz5150 Maybe think about a jump starter box if you don't already have one.
We carry one on the snowmobile. It's electric start with no rope. It would likely work to boost the generator. I'm going to try starting the generator this morning after having the trickle charger on it all night. If it fires up no problem I'll probably switch generators. My old Predator has almost 1,000 hours on it. Think I'll put it into backup service.
I'm thinking a solar battery maintainer might keep that generator battery tip top so it doesn't have to be plugged in.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2022 10:09am
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If you go the solar 'maintainer' consider that its amps x volts = watts; ie, a 15W panel will, at best, only do 1 amp charge, imo a min. needed to maintain if it was a grid powered maintainer. And you will only get maybe 2-3 hrs worth of decent winter sun? Add in that a solar anything seems to be only about 70% efficient.
Id want a min. 30ish W panel, 50ish would be better.
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2022 03:01pm
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Quoting: gcrank1 you will only get maybe 2-3 hrs worth of decent winter sun?
We sit up on a south facing hillside. More like 4-5 hrs of good sun. I use a 4watt maintainer on our campervan and it keeps the battery topped up. Remember, I'm not trying to charge it but rather maintain a charge.
The 220v maintainer that came with the generator is 14v/.8A
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