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gcrank1
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# Posted: 3 Mar 2022 10:54am
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You are certainly worse off for s-exposure than we are!
We get good sun after 9am when it rises above the treed ridge to the east then lose it at 1pm as the tall pines start the shadowing. Even with this limitation I was able to get our old fla bat-bank recharged of a typical day, our usage/recharge balance was good.
Our driveway is the best array location near the toolshed/powerhouse, the 30' between drive and PH becomes the default location and gains me until 2:20 from where it is now.
If the prev owner/builder (built Aug 2012) had located the cabin 50' more to the E with the peaked roof to the S the roof-top or S wall array could have been easily 1200w. I suspect he tucked it into the edge of the trees to 'not be seen'.
Move the cabin 50' and orient it correctly! I would except its a glorified 16x24 rough lumber pole building with 12 posts.
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ICC
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# Posted: 3 Mar 2022 01:36pm
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Quoting: Nobadays I think the best advice I was given when originally designing my cabin system was, "unless you like fiddling with equipment rather then enjoying your time at the cabin, buy name brand, top quality equipment and design a system that can supply half again what you estimateright now.... your usage will grow." Buy once cry once.
Exactly. I want my solar to work for me, not the other way around.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 4 Mar 2022 09:10pm
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Well.. I decided on a CCI for our cabin because.. well, I'm cheap. I just couldn't dump a bunch of money on an inverter that will only get used on weekends. Maybe I will replace it in the future..
So I ended up picking up a Novopal brand from Amazon. Standard cheap pure sine wave inverter.
I tested the no load power draw. In "soft off" it draws only 0.01A@24v. However in on mode with nothing connected it draws 0.05A@24V. So about 12W which is on par for most Chinese inverters.
On the upside, it uses a standard CAT5 cable for the remote panel, so that will be easy to wire.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 4 Mar 2022 10:23pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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Thrifty, Trav, Not cheap 
I just took a look, is it the 24v 2kW/4kW peak unit?
Are the included cables adequate gauge? Good terminals?
I have had a selection of CCI inverters and tend to use the cables from the next size bigger unit on the downsize unit; after hooking the ring-term's on something to give a good hard pull.
Fwiw, I am also in the habit of pulling apart anything, like an ANL fuse assembly, to ensure the screws are well tight (often are Not!).
The idle draws you tested look promising!
Now that Ive been shopping it seems even the CCI's are 'value added' from the not too distant past. Good.
Probably cheap components. Normal.
Get one and drive it hard at first so if it fails it does so during the return window.
In another 5 years we may be wanting to upgrade so going 'value priced' now may be a good strategy.
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paulz
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2022 09:46am
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Frugal, not thrifty. 
CCIers unite! I still don't get the 'soft off'. Mine seems to shut down the same whether powered off via the wall switch or the panel switch.
Mine is a Flamezum, lol, I just looked at the label. As in flamable. Turns out there are quite a few Youtube tests and reviews I need to check out. The one I did watch ended with 'Don't Buy!'.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2022 10:19am
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Quoting: gcrank1 I have had a selection of CCI inverters and tend to use the cables from the next size bigger unit on the downsize unit; after hooking the ring-term's on something to give a good hard pull.
I bought the 1000W 24V version. So at full pull its only 42A @ 24V. The cables that came with it are only about 1 foot long, but look about 8ga which is WAY big enough. I suspect they ship the same cables weather its 12V or 24V version. They look good quality and the rings are on tight. I wouldn't hesitate to use them.
Quoting: paulz CCIers unite! I still don't get the 'soft off'. Mine seems to shut down the same whether powered off via the wall switch or the panel switch.
With a remote panel, they need to have a sensing circuit to know when you hit the button to power up the inverter. So essentially a soft off turns off all the other circuitry but leaves a microcontroller checking for that button press. Depending on how that circuit is designed and the code is written it can be super efficient (like 0.01A) or very poor (like 0.1A) for parasitic draw.
On smaller inverters (like 800W and under) the switch on the front of the inverter is usually a "real" physical switch that disconnects the DC input completely. So the parasitic draw is a REAL zero. Once you get over about 800w they usually use the same circuit for the remote panel and front panel switch (a soft off). This is because its pretty hard to source a switch that can pass the amount of current required.
Unless you have an inverter with a "real" physical switch on the front its best to wire a high current disconnect between the inverter and the battery. This allows you to completely turn off the inverter when you are away from the cabin. That way the components in the inverter are powered down prolonging their life. This is especially important for electrolytic capacitors as they are rated in powered hours.
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paulz
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2022 10:39am - Edited by: paulz
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I do have a circuit breaker I can switch off. The switch on the front panel is a tiny little push button, so I'm guessing it is a soft off too. The wall switch is connected via RS485.
Guy on CL has a new in the box Magnum but it's still $1,300. About 2k online. That's a lot of cheeseburgers.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2022 11:03am - Edited by: gcrank1
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I expect that always on thing is what eats the board on rv furnaces for those that dont discon the bat or leave one plugged into grid. After our very low use Atwood furnace board failed I replaced with the well regarded Dinosaur Board and took to popping the vent cover off to access the furnace switch.
Started doing the same after heating season with our home furnace.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 09:56am
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Well my new 2500/5000W CCI has an issue. It will run light loads no problem, up to the 1,000W toaster. But with the microwave, it runs about a minute, around 1,500W (according to the built in display), then just shuts off. None of the warning beeps it's supposed to have, low input voltage, overheated, etc., go off, and both of those values are below limits, again according to the built in display. it will restart immediately.
No biggie, rarely use the nuker. I did buy the extended warranty, could return it but it works fine otherwise. Wonder why it shuts down?
Time to start thinking about a quality unit.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 11:10am
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Maybe they stick a 'whatever power' label on it and figure most wont actually try to use that much.
Are your cables really big enough? All the ends really good?
Return asap (so they can re-box it and send to somebody else  ?) You may get a better unit this next time, and you did pay for the Ex War.
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paulz
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 12:02pm
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6awg cables, 3'. It came with small cables that I didn't use. And like I said, it's supposed to have a 'low input voltage' alarm. Also says low voltage power off is like 10v or so, it's showing way above that when it shuts down. And when it shuts down there's no red LED or anything, just looks like I powered it off.
I have another set of cables, maybe I will try doubling them up for a test.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 12:58pm
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Quoting: paulz Wonder why it shuts down?
When the incoming voltage is too high or too low they are supposed to shut down. A defective unit could also be a reason.
What inverter is this ?
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paulz
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 02:38pm
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It's the magnificent Flamezum 2,500, 200 bucks shipped.
I have sat there looking at it when it shuts down, the voltage is above the point where the low voltage alarm is supposed to sound, and way above the low voltage shutdown level.
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Nobadays
Member
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 03:03pm
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Quoting: paulz the magnificent Flamezum 2,500
Hey at least it hasn't lived up to its name.... yet
Sorry, no help...
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 06:34pm
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....from an Amazon reviewer...
"No good, 1000w with 2000w max wouldn’t run a 1000w appliance. At 900 watts it beeped relentlessly and finally shut off. Had to return it and upgrade."
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paulz
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2022 11:16am
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Thanks ICC. I tried it again this morning. Runs the toaster at 1,000w no problem. Turned on the fan and heater, 1,700w, turned off soon after. But again no beeps or warning.
Not sure it's worth returning. $200 for a 1,000w PSW isn't a bad deal, I can use it in the shop or in the cabin for lighter loads. But I've learned my lesson, next inverter will be a quality brand.
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