| . 1 . 2 . >> |
| Author |
Message |
adkoffgridhome
Member
|
# Posted: 1 Nov 2021 02:36pm
Reply
We are looking for advise/recommendations on battery ignition propane indoor hot water heaters.
Our water source is an IBC tank located in our second floor above wall below where shower, bathroom sink, toilet, and kitchen sink are located.
1. Does anyone know if the gravity feed water pressure is enough for heater to run properly? We realize the pressure in shower head won’t be great but are used to that as we are currently using an outdoor on demand shower system.
2. Recommendations for a reliable vented indoor unit with battery ignition system?
Thanks in advance for advice.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 1 Nov 2021 08:30pm
Reply
With about 3psi it prob wont work with any on demand heater. You need to ad a pump.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 1 Nov 2021 09:37pm
Reply
FYI, you get 0.43 PSI for each foot of water head.... 10 ft. from top of water in tank to point where the water leaves the pipe = 4.3 PSI. As the water in the tank is used pressure falls . A heater should give specs for psi, gpm, temperature rise at various gpm....
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 1 Nov 2021 10:48pm
Reply
How about an lp travel trailer hot water heater?
A small 12v water pump is readily available or if you use a decent sized 'pond pump' you could power it with 120vac off an inverter.
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Nov 2021 08:43am
Reply
My tank is 20' above the L5. Won't kick on under gravity, even with 750 gallons in the tank.
Someone said there are heaters that are pressure triggered and some flow triggered. I believe the L5 is pressure, maybe a flow triggered?
|
|
Aklogcabin
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Nov 2021 09:18am
Reply
You could use it this way but you just wouldn't have much pressure. The water heater doesn't care if the water is flowing or not. It just keeps it warm.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Nov 2021 10:03am - Edited by: gcrank1
Reply
I have been curious about the L5 and grav-feed Paul. We have one I saved from our RV days. You just saved me from making a tower.
|
|
adkoffgridhome
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Nov 2021 10:36am
Reply
Do you currently have gravity feed system? If so, what water heater do you use and are you happy with it?
|
|
|
adkoffgridhome
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Nov 2021 10:39am
Reply
We currently use the portable unit- but using our inc tank on second floor is more convenient than carrying Pails of water.
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Nov 2021 11:12am - Edited by: paulz
Reply
The L5 does have an internal pressure adjustment screw. I've never messed with it but there's a guy on here who was going to try a few months back, don't know the result.
This one is supposed to start at 2psi.
https://www.campingworld.com/excel-vent-free-tankless-propane-water-heater-low-p ressure-startup-1.6gpm-105040.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=%7bC ampaign%7d&gclid=Cj0KCQjww4OMBhCUARIsAILndv6Ukcg508Jwss6EYV1D-pzy3AzDh2geETvJPX4qa_3B yn19oRX01MAaAmgkEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Nov 2021 11:16am - Edited by: paulz
Reply
As far as indoor, any LP heater is going to put out CO. The ones advertised as indoor have a sniffer and safety switch, like a buddy heater, unless piped to an external vent. Use it long enough and it will shut off. But for washing up or a quick shower probably won't, I run my stovetop longer than that and haven't set off the CO alarm.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Nov 2021 11:44am
Reply
+1 that, but emphasis needs be made to:
Have A CO Detector IF You Run Any Gas Device Indoors
|
|
Siennali
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Mar 2024 09:05am
Reply
I suggest looking into tankless propane water heaters with a battery ignition system. Rinnai and Bougerv have options that are suitable for indoor use. Regarding water pressure, gravity-fed systems can work with these heaters, but it's crucial to ensure proper installation and sizing for optimal performance. You may need to install a pressure regulator to maintain consistent flow. As for ventilation, ensure the unit is vented properly to prevent carbon monoxide buildup.
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Mar 2024 06:44pm - Edited by: paulz
Reply
Spam? Anyway like many of you I have the Ecotemp. I also have gravity feed to the cabin, about 30’, but it won’t fire up the Ecotemp unless I run the cabin pump. Too bad cause there’s enough gravity feed at the shower head (in photo) to shower without the pump.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 23 Mar 2024 07:32pm - Edited by: gcrank1
Reply
From the way many of those spam posts sound Im wondering if they are being generated by AI? They just don't 'sound' like most people talk but they do sound similar to each other.
I think the water pressure safety valve makes the gas valve open, or close if there is no water pressure running water though, so the tubes don't melt down/come unsoldered.
Ive never looked at my L5 to sort it out for any adjustability or if not seeing if it can be replaced with an adjustable one.
I suspect they can be bypassed but since they are a safety valve that wouldn't be a good idea 
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 24 Mar 2024 10:40am - Edited by: paulz
Reply
Quoting: gcrank1 I think the water pressure safety valve makes the gas valve open, or close if there is no water pressure running water though
Interesting. I’ve had a love/hate relationship with mine, probably my fault. Often it won’t light up either based on the knob settings or water flow/pressure. For example, I’ll start the wash machine filling (on hot, pump on) and the water comes in cold (it’s a slow fill), heater not kicking in. But if I turn on the shower head at the same time, heater kicks on, and stays on to fill the washer if I turn off the shower. So it must be sensing the increased flow? If there is an adjustment I’m ready to try..
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 24 Mar 2024 02:42pm
Reply
Id start with the famous: disassemble and inspect, lol.
Somewhere on the water intake side should be some kind of an inline sensor/valve that has to trigger the actual gas safety valve or an ignition interlock?
They wont light up unless water is flowing and they don't want gas flowing to light up if it isn't.
That water inlet ties into that sequence somewhere.
Maybe it isn't a separate safety valve but an integral part of the gas safety valve; ie, a mechanical valve, because these units, afaik, only use a couple D batteries to do the elec spark ignition so I doubt they are using any battery power to run a solenoid.
|
|
FishHog
Member
|
# Posted: 24 Mar 2024 04:28pm
Reply
Quoting: paulz Interesting. I’ve had a love/hate relationship with mine, probably my fault. Often it won’t light up either based on the knob settings or water flow/pressure. For example, I’ll start the wash machine filling (on hot, pump on) and the water comes in cold (it’s a slow fill), heater not kicking in. But if I turn on the shower head at the same time, heater kicks on, and stays on to fill the washer if I turn off the shower. So it must be sensing the increased flow? If there is an adjustment I’m ready to try..
Wash machine inlet is too small to allow high enough water flow. They need a decent amount of flow or the safety won't let them fire. Don't want to start boiling water in the coils. So I think your solution is what your doing, run enough water elsewhere to make it flow. Or just run a hose to your washer and fill it from the top with the hose that will allow enough flow.
|
|
FishHog
Member
|
# Posted: 24 Mar 2024 04:32pm
Reply
Quoting: gcrank1 so I doubt they are using any battery power to run a solenoid.
its not, its a manual valve. I've replaced mine as it was dripping. With the cover off as water starts flowing you can see the valve open up, doesn't take much of a drop in flow for it to close back up.
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 24 Mar 2024 08:03pm
Reply
Thanks FH. Funny I’ve had my cover off 50 times but never noticed that valve. Doesn’t sound like something to mess with anyway.
Besides, my shower wand reaches the washer, I can fill it with that augmenting. I haven’t done it because I’m not sure how the washer knows when it’s full. Is there a full sensor, is it timed, weight?
|
|
FishHog
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Mar 2024 07:38am
Reply
not sure on that paul. Must have some kind of a sensor. Maybe let it fill on its own and check the level and only fill to that mark manually. And watch the first time that it doesn't keep filling itself even more.
|
|
razmichael
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Mar 2024 07:54am
Reply
You might already be aware of this but you can adjust the internal valve:
"you may need to perform a water pressure adjustment to allow more water in."
link to the eccotemp support article is
Water pressure Adjustment
It's a bit finicky so only make small changes at a time. As the article states "This will enable the portable tankless water heater to operate at a lower water pressure by restricting flow."
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Mar 2024 09:08am
Reply
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Mar 2024 10:16am - Edited by: paulz
Reply
Sweet, thank you!
It says:
You may need to perform a water pressure adjustment to allow more water in…
That must be more than a simple needle screw. Doesn’t appear to be room for much more.
Not for the wash machine so much, just be nice to shower without juice going for the pump. Plenty of gravity feed at the shower head.
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Mar 2024 11:51am
Reply
Well I got the shower to turn the heater on without the pump! But I had to turn the screw (the right one in the photo I hope) in about a turn. If you go further it starts to drip out around the screw.
So I’ll be keeping a close eye on it for awhile..
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Mar 2024 12:03pm
Reply
Try adjusting now so it is at that turn on/off edge and a smidge more; that may give you what you want with a bit more thread engagement.
A bit of plumber's sealant on it may be good too?
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Mar 2024 12:09pm
Reply
The screw goes in more according to the directions, that’s the confusing part. I don’t think I ran low on thread, something else happens when you go too far. Not leaking now so I’m not messing with it unless necessary.
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Mar 2024 02:19pm
Reply
I tried to take a shower… Funny thing, the heater only works with the shower head on the ground. Lift it up to head height and the heater stops. Screwed the adjuster in more, no help. So it’s right on the borderline. And that’s with the water tank full.
Then I tried the wash machine, same thing, no go without the pump. The bit of good news is with the shower head in the washer and the washer on, it will run both, so I can fill the washer without the pump on. Need juice to run the washer so might as well run the pump…
Oh well. Other option would be to shower on the ground..
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Mar 2024 08:26pm
Reply
Shower sitting in an old clawfoot tub? 
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Mar 2024 07:04am
Reply
Ha, crossed my mind too. Finally get some use out of that thing.
Also this footnote on the pressure instructions:
Please keep in mind that the L5 is NOT to be permanently mounted or left unattended as it is not recommended and can be considered a hazard. Not for indoor usage or to be vented. Also, these units are not to be plumbed into the side or any other part of the house or location and are meant to serve for recreational use only. Using in the manners stated will void your warranty
Hmm, mounted, plumbed? Wouldn’t do that would we. What do they expect us to do, run it in a wheelbarrow?
|
|
| . 1 . 2 . >> |
