|
| Author |
Message |
shingobeek
Member
|
# Posted: 8 Jul 2021 06:28pm
Reply
Looking at a used one of these for 475, never had one before. I was wondering of folks experiences with them? Not sure what year of model this one is, but it is white, freezer and refrigerator, 24 in wide x 22 in deep x 56 1/2 tall........???
|
|
FishHog
Member
|
# Posted: 8 Jul 2021 07:53pm
Reply
I inherited one 6 years ago with the cottage and it works great
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 8 Jul 2021 10:55pm
Reply
1) what have you been using thus far? Satisfactory?
2) do you really need a refrigerator?
Fwiw, we tried a small apartment size 4.5cf Haier 120vac and an imported absorption chest unit at 12vdc/120vac and they sucked a lot of power. Thought about gas then asked myself the same questions I asked above.
We now have a LifeTime cooler (think low-cost version of a Yeti) that stays at the cabin. We bring in a cooler of frozen and pre-cooled food for the expected time of stay and, if needed, another cooler full of ice jugs we re-freeze in our home freezer. A smart mingling of ice jugs and food in the LT and a small cooler for soon to use food and we are good, no other appliance, piping, cylinder/gas required.
KISS Principle still works for us.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 9 Jul 2021 08:37am
Reply
What's the real watt useage of that imported absorption fridge GC? The one I saw was 50w...but 50w 120vac so a big difference in 50w 12vdc.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 9 Jul 2021 11:28am - Edited by: gcrank1
Reply
It is an OLD Instamatic, made in Luxemburg, CB 35/78
12vdc - 7.5a on a cig-lighter plug.
120vac - .75a?
The heat exchanger seems to run hotter on dc, that says to me it is working harder/better?, iirc it has been said these are more efficient on dc.
But it is constant draw of 7.5a x 24/7; that is some 90watts/2160 per day. It basically eats a 200ah bat-bank to 50% in 12 hrs! I was covering it at night to insulate and disconnecting, only running during the day off the array (hopefully).
My dorm model is a Haier HNSE045 (4.5cf)
115vac - 1.5a / start-up 6.0a
Running off a 12/120 inverter is a draw of 15a+/60a+ start-up cycling. Open the door and the cold spills out just like at home where it doesnt matter because its on grid and elec is cheap. Off grid I hate that waste.
Imo camping, rv's and off grid should be in chest type units.
The kicker is that unless one has the 'cabin unit' constantly running it is not cold when you get there, you still have to load a fridge up with cold and/or frozen food and ice (bottles) to chill it down while the unit runs and gets stabilized. I skip to the chase by doing the same thing with the great LT cooler and dont mess around with a fridge at all now.
|
|
FishHog
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Jul 2021 08:13am
Reply
Sorry I thought we were talking propane. Mine is propane not electric
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Jul 2021 09:21am - Edited by: gcrank1
Reply
OP's inquiry is for a gas model. I derailed it right off; Sorry
Thought it was worth asking if a 'fridge is necessary and how I came to no, for us, after trying elec.
Regarding gas, Im leery of it, some reports of failed pilots and gas leaks got my attention in a bad way.
|
|
FishHog
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Jul 2021 11:12am
Reply
There is no reason to be worried about a propane fridge. The one I left at my last cottage was from the 50’s and still working fine.
Many cottages have propane and adding a fridge to it doesn’t increase the risk. I get that some people are afraid of gas but the risk is minimal if you have a properly installed system
|
|
|
shingobeek
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Jul 2021 07:48pm
Reply
I have a gas range ( 4 burners and oven) and 4 wall lights, so just looking into the addition of a fridge, sick of hauling ice to water access place...the yeti that stays there is just fine, but as time ticks on I am adding a propane fridge. I will shut off when not there, as I am usually up there Thursday to Sunday 40 plus weekends a year.....most likely not use it in winter when I am there, temps swing -40 to 90 F......
|
|
moneypitfeeder
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Jul 2021 10:27am
Reply
If it's a gas one for $475, I'd grab it, love ours. Check the insulation in the back in the small metal shroud that covers the heat exchange tube. If it is gone it won't be efficient, but it is so cheap to pack it back in (we used rockwool) and then it will cool in a hurry. They use very little propane once cool and are silent. If you put some bags of ice in the freezer when you first arrive and turn it on, it will cool the unit down faster. Couple of hours to get to temp and then you can transfer out of your yeti.
|
|
|
