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bill mitchell
Member
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 03:00
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I found the zero clearance stoves at Maine Coast Stove and Chimney company in Wiscasset Maine.
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NhLiving
Member
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 14:07
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I purchased some 22 gauge steel sheets, i plan to space them off the wall 1-2" with air gap on the bottom/top.The stove will be in the corner of two walls. With the stove around 14 inches off the The wall... This is a tiny potbelly stove..The walls are tongue&Groove boards behind the steel. Do you think this will be enough protection from the wood walls?
I also planned for 1-2 layers of cement board with a piece of steel over that, and then a couple patio blocks for temporary. Until i can build my hearth with stone collected from my property next summer. Can i lay all of those things right on the floor, or will i have to build it up a few inches and allow for air to travel from the front to the back, meeting the air space with the sheet metal/wall set up?
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 18:38
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sounds good to me , i think the most important part is the well ventilated air space between the walls and floor and the fire proof shields . [ie. the steel and cement board ] be safe !!!
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NhLiving
Member
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 20:08
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Thanks for your response. I think i have it figured out, but i just wanted to run it by some fellow cabin builders.
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Turbogeno
Member
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 20:41
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NhLiving , that sounds like a safe setup. Mine is not as protected and has had no issues with hot fires.
I recently tried something different with my stove as it's way to powerful for my 220 sq. ft. cabin. With wood if I don't monitor it every little while it's either to hot or to cold. It'll burn out in 2 hrs. It was about 22°f the other night. Around 1800 I put a 6" piece of stove pipe in the middle of it and lit some nut coal in it. After an hour I closed off most of the air and put some more coal in. I had to fill it up once around 0230 and shake the ashes but it kept the place comfortable all night. A little more testing and I'm thinking this is the way to go for overnight heat and comfort.
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NhLiving
Member
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2014 21:06
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Turbogeno, i dig your set up in the corner like that. Is the cement board under the patio blocks suspended off the floor? If so, what did you use?
I am also worried about overnight burns in such a small stove. I don't mind waking up once in the middle of the night to load it up. I hope that will be enough to keep it going.
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Turbogeno
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2014 06:07
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The cement board under the stove is on bricks and there is another layer of cement board behind the slate with an air space behind it.
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NhLiving
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2014 14:03
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Oh alright, i might use bricks or just 2x4s on their sides. I think with a layer of sheet metal, then 1 or 2 layers of cement board ill be fine. I'm concerned about weight so who knows.
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bill mitchell
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2014 14:05
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The name of the stove was Morso.
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Turbogeno
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2014 14:25
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Quoting: NhLiving Oh alright, i might use bricks or just 2x4s on their sides. I think with a layer of sheet metal, then 1 or 2 layers of cement board ill be fine. I'm concerned about weight so who knows.
If you stove is on legs that should be OK unless the bottom falls out  I wouldn't make it any thinner than the store bought protectors. You can't take any chances with a stove. Without legs I went with some extra non flammable material.
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NhLiving
Member
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2014 14:35
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ahah good call, let's hope the bottom doesn't fall out. The bottom of the stove appears to be structurally sound and is 8 inches off the ground. So i feel i should be safe enough. 'd rather do overkill than worry about my place burning down!
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Rowjr
Member
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# Posted: 30 May 2015 16:02
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What about a good U.S. stove cast iron logwood stove from Tractor supply $300.00 looks like a good candidate from the reviews
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Rowjr
Member
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# Posted: 30 May 2015 16:13
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Ok what decides on the pipe going thru your ridge line or your wall ? Does it heat or work better if the pipe goes straight up ?
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 30 May 2015 16:17
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Ideally up through the roof is optimal. And its not a bad idea to try to locate the hole in the roof as close to the ridge. If you have heavy snow accumulation, it can slide off (metal roof) and shear the pipe off otherwise. Mine is in the lower area, local guy installed it, he used HD metal supports on the pipe under the cap running to the ridge. It was made from 1 1/2" EMT and I have never had an issue. The local installer said it wouldn't. Its been 5 years now, no issue at all.
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tex
Member
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# Posted: 1 Oct 2015 22:53 - Edited by: tex
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You all are a bunch of fussy wood lot know it all's.
We were lucky enough to be given (free) a small decorative Swedish schooners wood stove. CAST not welded or pieced together for the "American way." - cheap and lacking design.
It has double walled inserts and draft control plus circulation chamber plate to re-burn any inefficient fumes.
Its FREE.
So, one needs to consider a gift and how one should treat such a gift. Simply, but thoughtfully. And safely.
No floor plate or ceramic (trip) feature will be used. A simple cut sheet of metal ONLY used when empting the ash. No major heat protection other than "tin ceiling", ornate, copper standoffs, panels.. will be used with the typical tolerances required for normal fire place use. (while one is always close/checking) managing ...ones heat source. (Not running around like sasquatch in the need of something to do.)
Its a retreat. Note a dream like thought at the office as a "cottage" on the lake. Its a basic, affordable retreat. Nothing more. So, keep it that way.
Dare ya.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2015 22:06
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PDK73, can you elaborate on your door inside. How is the seal attached. I like the vent door and the latch. Inside baffle looks great. I am building a woodstove right now and was thinking of how i would do the door. I like your set up, clean looking.
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