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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 14 Apr 2021 14:57
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So I did this at my last property and the setup really well...however we weren't there much longer after i installed it to know how well it worked long term.
Anyone see any improvements based on your experience that you would suggest?
This time i'll build an actual pump house vs. just a platform.
I installed the union fitting near the ground for winter time so that i could crack that fitting loose to relieve the pressure in the vertical pipe so that the water would drain back down and not freeze the pipe in winter.
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NorthRick
Member
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# Posted: 14 Apr 2021 16:26
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Quoting: WILL1E I installed the union fitting near the ground for winter time so that i could crack that fitting loose to relieve the pressure in the vertical pipe so that the water would drain back down and not freeze the pipe in winter.
While a union fitting might still be a good idea in case you want to reconfigure things, just removing the housing on the filter should accomplish the same thing. Plus, you want to pull that off to get the water out of it anyway so it doesn't freeze and crack.
An insulated shelter over the whole thing would reduce the risk of an accidental freezing during the shoulder seasons.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 06:42
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I wouldn’t instal a filter before your pressure switch, if it ever clogged it can cause your pump to dead head.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 07:54
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Quoting: NorthRick filter should accomplish the same thing.
The check valve prevents that from working.
Quoting: Irrigation Guy I wouldn’t instal a filter before your pressure switch
But how else do i ensure no particulates go into the pump and destroy it?
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ketchgould
Member
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 09:30
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How far down did you have to go for water?
Did you use a weighted ram and do it by hand, if so how long did it take?
I am planning on one this spring.
What pump did you find to be the best?
Thanks
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 10:14 - Edited by: WILL1E
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The pump i used then and plan to use again is the one sold at Harbor Freight. It's around $150. The max lift for those pumps is 25'.
If i recall, i used 4 sections of 5' pipe plus the 3' sandpoint...so 23' below the ground and then it was about 2' from the ground to pump level. I hit water at the 15' mark, but i went the max depth of the pump in case the water level was high for whatever reason.
I rented a jack hammer from the local hardware store and they also had an adapter made to slip over the pipe. Worked really slick!! I think it took a total of 20min of actual jack hammering. It took longer to add the sections and keep all the fittings tight.
The key is keeping those fittings tight as they loosen constantly. So while i was on a short scaffold, my buddy just kept a pipe wrench on the pipe and constantly turned it to keep it tight.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 11:04
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Quoting: WILL1E But how else do i ensure no particulates go into the pump and destroy
If you use a decent pump it should be able to handle a bit of debris. If you have so much that it is damaging impellers there is something wrong with your well
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 12:16
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Usualy the sand point at the bottom would filter out alot of the junk that would damage a pump.
You should change one of those filters over to a ceramic one so you could drink the water. Or add a UV light after the filter.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 14:51 - Edited by: gcrank1
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Did you use the Guide online from the WI DNR on doing your own driven well?
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 15:40
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Yup.
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NorthRick
Member
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 15:47
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Quoting: WILL1E The check valve prevents that from working.
Didn't catch that the first time. I see it now.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 17:25 - Edited by: gcrank1
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Lucky you were to hit water so soon, looks like my static water level is at 26ish', too deep for a shallow well pump by all accounts.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 08:01
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Well, i'll know if i'm lucky or not after this weekend. Supposed to be a heat wave (50's) this weekend so the fam and I are headed up shortly. Just so happens the hardware store has a gas post pounder available so i'm going to install the pipe and a pitcher pump this weekend.
Time to bust out the 'ol witchin/dowsing sticks and work my magic again!
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 09:19
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Good luck, I'm a bit jealous of that! Static water level is 40+ feet on my land.......and I've heard reports of people not being able to get a large (2") point through a gravel/rocky layer at around 25-30 feet in the area.
Quote I got for a drilled well started at $4-5k....That's an iffy maybe for down the road in a few years for us.
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 09:27
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Have you looked at well drilling reports around you? Or do you know you have water? I see some nearby you with 65 foot depth to water, others in the 20s....
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 09:46
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I haven't looked into well depth reports around me....not sure where to look honestly.
I'm going solely based on the fact that i have the pond on my property and the topography of the land near me with me being at the lower end of things.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 10:04
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I just found the site. Looks like most of the drilled wells around me are marking static in the 40's. However, all of those places are higher elevation than me so hopefully it's closer for me.
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 10:09
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Ahh, Gotcha.
Yeah, not much topography change immediately around me, so I can rely fairly well on the neighbor's well reports.
https://wi-dnr.maps.arcgis.com/apps/LocalPerspective/index.html?appid=0cc1b8d9c40749b a9b9e5c2c90848e23
Hopefully that link works, you can map them in WI, and then see the well drilling report. This is new, used to be a text based search only by range/town/section.
There's a line for the static water level at the time of drilling. Be careful, some are mapped by parcel, some are just thrown into the middle of a section or 1/4 section (it says how it's mapped in the report)
OTOH, if your topography varies, soils may vary drastically, and you may be completely fine. By me, it's consistent in the immediate area, but 1/2 mile away wells are at 145 feet.....
The fact that I see ANY wells with a 20some foot water level near you is encouraging, especially since they are supposed to be on higher points of land when possible for drilled wells.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 10:20
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Based on topo maps, i'm supposedly around 1280-1300ft. The closest well report to me is 2 doors down and he was in the 40's for static depth...however, he's also at least 100' higher in elevation. So my fingers are crossed.
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 10:22
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Yeah, you're a lot higher than I am at 900 feet. Different soil conditions....I'm in the strip of land where glaciers deposited a BUNCH of sand and sandy gravel.
100 feet higher for the neighbor with a 40 foot water level, and you have a pond......yeah, I'm with you, that's encouraging. 
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 10:34
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Gotta start the weekend with optimism when i go up there as i usually leave a pessimist!
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 18 Apr 2021 09:34
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Good luck on your well. I'm doing a sand point also. A well driller friend suggested I blow air down the pipe to help blow any mud from the screen after you get it drilled. Probably have to neck it down to 1/4" pipe thread for a valve stem to fit. To help clean the screen and help develop the water cavity. He also suggested that I pour water down the pipe n keep it full. When the water drains from the pipe you hit the water table. And keep a pipe wrench on pipe to keep tight joints.
They make a coupler special for joining sand point well casings. Harder steel and the threads are made so that the pipe ends meet.
If you were not aware. There are pumps made that drop down the well also. 1-7/8" diameter in size. That may give you more lift. I have a surflow that others suggest will lift 25 feet. But I think that's using a garden hose. I also purchased some 3/8" tubing to use in place of the garden hose in case the pump doesn't like to pull that much suction or water with a 5 micron foot filter on the bottom and another 5 micron basket filter just before the pump.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 18 Apr 2021 10:53
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On a related topic, a little project for the the farmer yesterday. He has a remote field where he grows tomatoes which had a submersible well pump that got power from the neighbor who he paid for use. The neighbor ended up having a stroke and hasn’t been quite right since. He somehow got it in his head that the farmer was taking advantage of him and cut the power to the pump. Farmer even offered to pay $1000 up front but it fell on deaf ears.
luckily groudwater in only 5’ down so I was able pull to the submersible, put foot valve on the drop pipe, and set him up with a trash pump to supply his drip tape. Not the prettiest install but gets it done.
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ketchgould
Member
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# Posted: 18 Apr 2021 11:40
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Will1E
Did any WI official come out and inspect the well?
Do you think the building permit folks have any interest in the well if you were to have them out later down the road?
How did you decide where to place the well?
How close would you want the well to the cabin location?
Thanks
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 18 Apr 2021 19:03
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The WI DNR Well Info online has a whole bunch of useful stuff, 'well worth' looking at.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 19 Apr 2021 08:25
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Well (no pun intended) the weekend is over and i'm back as a pessimist! Well pounding was a no go.  I witched/dowsed 2 different spots on my property and got everything set to drive the pipe.
I rented one of these from the local hardware store and it didn't do squat. Didn't even drive the pipe down an inch in the sandy soil. If i hit the pipe with the sledge, i could get about 2" per swing. But, with the condition of my neck there was no way that was gonna happen for another 250+ inches so i called it quits. That was a wasted $75.
The specs say 45lb of pounding weight but it felt nowhere near the same the jack hammer deal i rented the last time i did this. I think most jack hammers are around 65lb, but still, this thing was useless.
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 19 Apr 2021 12:32
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Wonder if that one was broken or something? Weird....if you were able to get 2" per sledge hit, it should've gone.
I had a fence put in last year, and the installers installed galvanized post pipes with this. They pounded them 4 1/2 feet in the ground, no problem!
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 19 Apr 2021 13:44
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Yeah, i don't know. I watched a few youtube videos and people seem to like them. Sound wise compared to the videos it sounded like mine was running right. So i'm not sure what to think.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 19 Apr 2021 14:05
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Something was wrong, did you chat with them about that. A 'broken' rental unit shouldnt have cost you money.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 19 Apr 2021 14:21
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A 2in hollow post has very little ground contact. Its prob filling with dirt as it's being driven in. I'm sure they work well for smooth fence posts but driving in a sand point I guess they dont have the power. Electric jack hammers have about a 90lb hit. Almost 2x the hit.
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