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ketchgould
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2021 03:10pm
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I am going to try for water with a sand point well in Sawyer County near Hayward, Wisconsin.
In Wisconsin every well needs to be applied for and a permit issued before I can drive my own sand point well. The revised state standards (2020) are that the well needs to be located at the "highest elevation (within reason) of the parcel".
I am trying to figure out where to place the well on my land.
The 3 acres fall 50 feet in elevation to a natural spring over the course of the 600 feet of land. The highest point of the land is at the road, 600 feet in distance and 50 feet of elevation from the natural springs.
I plan on putting a cabin 200 feet in from the road, this would be 400 feet from the spring. The cabin location is 10 feet lower in elevation than the road, and 40 feet higher in elevation than the springs. Should I try for water where I want to put the cabin or should I move further down the slope closer to the natural springs keeping in mind that the state rules are that the well is located at the "highest elevation (within reason) of the parcel". I will want to add a standard septic system in the future too.
I am not sure if anyone will inspect the well, as the $50 permit can be bought at a gas station the same as a fishing license.
Any ideas where you would put the well?
Thanks! Christian
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Brettny
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2021 03:20pm
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What does that county actually consider a well? In some places a driven/sand point well isnt consisted a well
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2021 04:14pm
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Keep in mind a sand point with a shallow well jet pump or a hand pump can only pull water from less than 25’ deep.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2021 05:14pm
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In WI you may find that because of the septic setback from a well that you have to be doing both? I believe that in our township/county if there has not been a prior well or septic the septic has to be perked and approved before the well can go in. You are going to have to know, for sure and certain. Short of talking to gov people you might talk to a local well driller, he will know and also have an idea how deep you are likely to find the aquifer.
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2021 08:18am
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Highest Point on Property â–¼ The well must be located on the highest point of the property consistent with the general layout and surroundings if reasonably possible, but in any case the well must be protected against surface water flow and flooding and not be directly down slope from a contamination source on the property or on an adjacent property. The well may be side gradient from a contaminate source provided that surface water that flows over the contaminate
This is taken from WI's DNR publication on sandpoint/driven wells. The way I read that, I would interpret it to mean that in your situation, it makes sense to put it down slope of the cabin, as you want a driven well to be reasonably shallow to not need a deep well pump, etc.
Have you looked up other wells nearby and looked at water depths, well depths, etc?
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2021 10:05am
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Something I forgot, that was told to me so second hand and unofficial, is that with the easy to get permit for the well it is a heads up to the 'powers that be' that you are doing something they may want to know about. We are happily using a rain barrel system with a first-flush diverter (see how to make online) and inlet filter media. I add 1 Tbs of bleach 1st of each month. At winter prep when I drained/dumped I could still see clear all the way to the bottom. That is utility water, the biggest use. We go past an artesian well on the way so there's our potable supply. We keep 2.5gal at the cabin and bring a fresh couple gal. each trip. After all last year this way my inclination to do a sand point (25ish' to water table there) has diminished greatly.
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ketchgould
Member
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2021 10:43am
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Considering the septic system with this shallow well I think it makes sense to talk to the septic installer and have them tell me where to try for the well after determining where the septic goes.
I feel like moving down the slope closer to the spring improves my odds of finding water, but increases the difficulty of getting the water up the slope to the cabin.
In knee deep snow there are places at the bottom of the slope where there is still green grass growing. I also think about just tapping a well at the bottom of the slope in the spring, maybe without a permit?, might be an easy way to try the process and hope the water tests clean for drinking water and then use a rain barrel system for the rest of the cabin water needs.
What can't you use rain barrel water for? Can it be for a shower? How do you heat the water? Does it work well for toilet?
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2021 10:58am
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Just beat that thing in and plead ignorance, after you delete this thread of course.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2021 11:00am
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We havent had our rain barrel water tested. It is recommended after you have set up a sensible system. We use it for all utility. Heating water: in the cold months there is always a big pot of water on the wood stove, short that there is the gas range. In the summer we have a black bucket out in the sun all day and can bring water quickly to a boil in an old salvaged heavy alum kettle on the 'turkey fryer' (imo, a must have at a cabin for all kinds of things).
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 11 Mar 2021 10:48am
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That artesian well between Shell Lake n Spooner has been there a long time.
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ketchgould
Member
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# Posted: 11 Mar 2021 12:40pm
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We have been getting water from the South Shore of Lake Superior at the artesian wells in Ashland and Washburn too
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 13 Mar 2021 07:44pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: Brettny What does that county actually consider a well? In some places a driven/sand point well isnt consisted a well
I'm with brett here, call it an exploratory hole. Unofficial. Its crazy to make you put it on the highest spot, far away from planned build. In my state, at least when I did mine, it was "where do you want it" and I pointed here and he drove a stake in and a week later, drill to 178 feet and got water.
Also, if you got called out, you can say, "oh, that old thing, been there for years"...
Our wells, nothing can happen within 100 feet of the well, ie no other buildings, septic etc. All our wells are sealed at the well casing with bentonite so no flood water can leech down the side, no more well pits, all must use pitless adapter or exit out from the top. You can still use a pit for pump gear, just can be a well inside the pit anymore.
If I was to put my well right next to the property line, my neighbor would lose use of a 50foot radius on his property.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 13 Mar 2021 08:54pm
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If you do, make sure you use a casing that you can actually get a pump in.
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