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mshkikianimoosh
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# Posted: 26 Oct 2020 12:14pm
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I inherited a Super Chalet wood stove in my off-grid cabin. I can't read the info plate on the back to determine the mfger. The air inlet knob came loose this a.m. It seems to have unscrewed. I'm not certain how to work on it. There's a couple screws on a small plate on the front of the air intake box. On the inside of the door the box has 4 nuts holding the box in place. Anyone know anything about this model? I haven't been able to locate it online. I also have a Haugh S-121 with a Smoke Master attachment atop, in the shed. I can't find info on this model either. If it has the necessary BTUs for a 1200 sq. ft. cabin, I would prefer it bc it has a window so I can see externally what's happening with the fire. Currently, the door appears to be seized. I like the air intake style of 2 inlets that turn so I can fine tune the burn I want. Anyone know where I can get data/ manuals?
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snobdds
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# Posted: 27 Oct 2020 12:30am
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It sounds like one of the stoves made in the 70s and 80s. A big plate steel box with a big smoke hole on top with a door and twist vents on front. If was really fancy, it came with fire brick.
Search on fisher stoves, they use the twist vents...for spare parts.
Honestly though, those old stoves are horribly inefficient. No smoke shelf, reburn tubes or catalytic converter. Smoke is flammable, new stoves burn it. Weight the option of putting part money towards a new stove that will save you work and hassle.
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 27 Oct 2020 08:25am - Edited by: Nobadays
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I did a bit of searching... THIS LINK might be helpful. Try to search for the stove under images and "visit" those sites.
Is this your stove? If it is it is a Hevac automatic wood heater.
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mshkikianimoosh
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# Posted: 28 Oct 2020 10:07am
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That's it, the Super Chalet must be Hevac. My door hinge is on the right side other than that it looks exactly the same. I realized after rechecking it that it's only the knob that's turning; the actual mechanics of the air vent is still intact. I suppose I'll need to look for some high heat glue to secure the knob.
I will research Fisher bc I want to know if I can use the Haugh in the cabin. When I thought it was a Smoke Master stove, the info on them was very positive. So if it is good quality, I'd rather use it than buy a new one; I really like the screw air intakes that allow it to be fine tuned where the SC only has 2 settings. I can't open the door, but I can see the firebricks inside. The previous owner used it to heat the shed which he used primarily as a workshop. I'll have to figure out how to open it. the previous owner lived 2 hr away and I don't think he was around here that much.
The Super Chalet can get the cabin smokin hot. I've had to learn how to use the air intake and arrange my fire to ensure it burns until morning, so I don't have to start from scratch. I have considered a new one but I'll wait and see. Thanks for the advice and info.
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mshkikianimoosh
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# Posted: 28 Oct 2020 11:15am
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Actually, the Smoke Master on the Haugh is a catalytic converter. I looked up the Fisher and the Haugh looks like it with the twist knob air intakes that I don't see on Haugh images, but the label says Haugh at the bottom of the plate. Interestingly, Warnock Hersey is identified as a make on line with tons of images when it is not a brand, it's a testing company that certifies wood stoves in Canada. It says at the top of the plate by the Warnock Hersey logo and info that it's an S-121 but I can't find anything about that model.
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paulz
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# Posted: 30 Oct 2020 11:22pm - Edited by: paulz
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Quoting: snobdds Honestly though, those old stoves are horribly inefficient. No smoke shelf, reburn tubes or catalytic converter. Smoke is flammable, new stoves burn it. Weight the option of putting part money towards a new stove that will save you work and hassle.
Looks like I'm in the old stove category. Is a smoke shelf the same as a baffle plate? i have two Arrow stoves, one at the cabin and one in our house bedroom. The have a 'heat exchanger', it's a steel box within the outer box, and a fan blows the air in between out the front. And a baffle plate. No catalytic converter, no reburn tubes. I see online some guys are able to add the tubes to old stoves.
I wonder how much more efficient a modern stove would be? I have gone up on the roof with a fire going and it's pretty darn hot.
Excerpt from my manual
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Brettny
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# Posted: 31 Oct 2020 08:04am
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I believe I remember seeing that adding a cat gains about 8 percent. There are many other factors to adding heat to a space though.
For a few years I didnt have an outside air kit on my stove. Then I built one and I would say i burn 25 percent less wood and have a warmer house. They really do make a huge difference. Also a thermostatic damper makes things easier to run thus burning less wood.
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paulz
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# Posted: 31 Oct 2020 11:13am - Edited by: paulz
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Interesting. I should get my outside air working at the cabin, right now I guess I'm sucking in cold air from any gaps. I think all I have to do is get under the floor and bore some holes under the pedestal, and install the block off plate under the door that allows room air in.
25% less trips to the wood shed sounds good!
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Brettny
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# Posted: 31 Oct 2020 12:42pm
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That's an odd place for the vent connection, though the pedestal but it wouldnt be seen.
I custom made mine with a piece of plate and a piece of bar stock. I adapted the stoves intake at the rear to a 4in aluminum dryer vent.
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paulz
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2020 08:55am - Edited by: paulz
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Harumph. I've been crawling around both my matching wood stoves that draw outside air through the pedestal. If you use room air, you remove a plate on the front to let the air in, otherwise it tries to suck it up through the bottom. The stove at my house has that plate removed, good thing because the stove sits on a slab, no way to use the outside air option.
The stove at the cabin still has that plate blocking room air, and I never put a hole in the floor for outside air, so although it seems to work, it's not right. I was going to go under the cabin yesterday and cut a hole but some tractor work took all day.
Last night I started wondering if I really need to cut that hole, not going to be easy. My normal MO is to light the stove, leave the door cracked until I get a good burn going, fill 'er up and shut the door, seems to work fine.
I just found this article on a Wood Heat website:
The Outdoor Air Myth Exposed
https://woodheat.org/the-outdoor-air-myth-exposed.html
It's a comprehensive article that I haven't fully studied, the conclusion being:
"In general, therefore, wood stoves and fireplaces that are vented by natural chimney draft should draw the air for combustion from the room in which they are located. Where necessary the indoor air pressure should be controlled to minimize depressurization."
Like to know what you guys think..
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Brettny
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2020 10:08am
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I have experienced none of the negative parts of a direct to appliance out side air kit. No reverse direction of draft, no smoke leak or anything there talking about. I have even ran my oul burner a bit alreaty and get no odd drafts. I do have about 15ft of dryer pipe until it gets outside. It rises and drops a few times in my basement and judging by the frost I see on the pipe and how cold the pipe gets it's doing its job.
As for other exhaust fans I have a 8in high CFM bathroom fan and even with that going it dosnt reverse direction.
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2020 10:18am
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I think that is accurate. Another benefit to having a positive pressure in the house is that it exhausts itself when doors are opened. You can feel it when you walk into buildings that pull on the door your openings. Is that along with odors , airborne germs are exhausted. Improving health in your home.
Back in air handling classes in college i was taught to balance air with a slightly positive indoor pressure. This will also help pull that smoke up the chimney when you open the door. Probably why my father taught me to always save a piece of paper for the top of the new fire. As the heat rises it is pulling air in leveling the differential.
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