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lburners
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2020 07:52pm - Edited by: lburners
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Working on a 12x16. If I use advantech on the subfloor I think I will be 1.5" short based on the 47.5 face sizing when I lay three sheets deep.
Whats the choices? buy a couple more sheets to fill the gap? Chop the last groove and buy one sheet, Rip a couple 1.5" pieces? Increase the suggested 1/8" gap to 1/4"?
Seems like a bit of a pain. Would be ideal to have it lay out flush.
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darz5150
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2020 08:58pm
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Rip strips. The bottom plate on your walls are 3 1/2 inches wide. And will cover the rip piece.
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ICC
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2020 09:39pm
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The bottom plate may be 3.5" or even 5.5". But strips are not the best idea. If a strip is used under a plate the actual floor diaphram does not get nailed to the rim joists, just to the strip on one side. The sheathing sheets impart great ridgidity to the floor structure, helping to retain the square/rectangular shape. They need to be nailed solidly to the rim joists all the way around the perimeter. The edge of the sub-flooring that is nailed to the rim joist also helps connect that rim to the floor assembly. If just a strip is used, hidden under the bottom plate, that rim joist is just hangng there on some nails through it and into end grain of the crossways floor joists.
On small structures I would reduce the width by an appropiate amount to keep full sheets around all the edges. On larger structures we'd simply cut a sheet or two. The leftover pieces almost always got used someplace.
Of course with "just a cabin or shed" some folks would not worry about it. But when building something larger it can be something a detail oriented inspector might look for.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2020 06:13am
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I'm with ICC time to break out the saw and cut 1.5in off the framing.
Another option could be to buy another sheet and shift everything over. A sheet 1.5in wide is not good.
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ratfink56
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2020 07:12am
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Video series explains why the shed is built just smaller than the given dimensions. Saves money on flooring, siding and trim.
https://countrylifeprojects.com/latest-projects/how-to-build-a-dream-shed-videos/
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lburners
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2020 09:02am
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I guess I can make the framing 1.5" shorter. Im not there yet so that will probably be the easiest solution. Didnt know if that would have me banging my head down the road in the project.
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2020 10:18am - Edited by: Aklogcabin
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Maybe I’m reading it wrong but if you are starting. Making the frame 1-1/2†shorter. You would have to continue that throughout the entire structure. As sheet good are 4’. At only 12’ wide , and the rim joist is 1-1/2†wide. Or 2â€â€ with laminated. So bottom plate can nail to both. I would add a strip under 1/2 of each wall. At 16’ that’s 2 sheets. Or staggerer it. Or put the subfloor in after the walls are up. This is common. The house or cabin construction, drywall painting n such will leave the floor dirty. That way the finish floor, whether painted, or a glue down product is used it’s on a new floor.
Main flooring can get rained on. 2 layers could make drying the floor out difficult. I like to paint mine with an oil based paint right after install to help waterproof. Makes snapping wall lines easier to see. Another step I take to actually see the layout of any walls is lay them out on the floor right after putting main floor down. You can walk through the place. And still make changes on paper.Floor lines such as walls indicating lines can be preserved by spraying clear spray polyurethane over your lines. Works on concrete also. This can also help in the construction phase. If different workers or tradesmen will be used. All know where each others lines are running. And clear information if critical.
These last steps only cost a can of clear spray paint and a few minutes but can really help down the line . So to speak. Good luck hope that helps.
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ICC
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2020 02:15pm
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Quoting: Aklogcabin Or staggerer it. Or put the subfloor in after the walls are up. This is common.
In conventional stick built construction that should not be common for the reason I mentioned above... the subflooring should be well nailed to the rim joists. If one is interested in building something that will last longer than oneself.
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lburners
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2020 06:38pm
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I guess my other option is finishing-sealing some standard 3/4" ply. It just might be out in the elements for a while and I have heard great things on advantech.
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rockies
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2020 10:46pm
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https://www.huberwood.com/technical-library/installation-manual-advantech-subflooring
One point I found was that sheathing installed across a single span (from one floor joist to the next) isn't strong. You might be tempted to do this by having a full panel end on the 2nd last joist and then filling in the end with a piece that runs to the rim board.
https://www.thebuildingcodeforum.com/forum/threads/an-expert-engineer-the-most-common -framing-mistakes.6076/
#1 on the list (and also #3). Don't forget to glue it down.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 06:26am
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Plytanium DryPly is pretty tough stuff and quite weather proof. It has a wax like coating on it. I'm sitting on a floor made from it right now. not sure on the price difference but it is real plywood not OSB with a coating.
I have heard of people laying down the sub floor, then rolling sheet plastic over it all. Then you build your walls as normal and when you have a roof over it you cut the plastic at the walls.
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lburners
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 07:55am
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Just out of curiosity what about standard homebuilding with 16" on center running like 20 of these boards. Don't they start to drift off 1/2" with each piece added. How does regular framing compensate for this? They must do the smaller size for a reason. It cant just be to save a couple pennies.
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ICC
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 09:26am
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Quoting: Brettny I have heard of people laying down the sub floor, then rolling sheet plastic over it all. Then you build your walls as normal and when you have a roof over it you cut the plastic at the walls.
I did that once. Used a heavy grade of poly, forget the actual mil thickness but it was the thickest they had. With all the walking around on it while framing walls we must have made pinholes all over. Looking at it was fine but after a couple of rainy days when we swept off the water there was lots of water underneath. Trapped. A few years later a friend who was building a cabin did the same thing and had the same result.
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 10:23am
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Jeepers a guy tries to help someone with a suggestion about building a 12-16 cabin . 6 sheets of thin plywood. And others want to comment that any other suggestions or opinions from others just have to be wrong.
We all pick up a hammer and drive a nail differently. But we seem to all get the job done. I also feel that our differences is our strength.
I would not expect the underlayment of a floor to hold a house together. Or any structure. Excuse me lburners.
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snobdds
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 11:37am
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This is why I don't use advantech. It throws the layout off.
Dumbest use of overthinking in the history of building.
Why is it so hard for them to make a true 4x8 sheet of plywood.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 12:02pm
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Has anyone taken a tape measure to a sheet?
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snobdds
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 12:57pm
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From their website...
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ICC
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 01:12pm
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You lose 1/2" on the width with the T7G joint. Length is fine; you space the 8 or 16 ft length joints with an 8D (1/8") nail.
Measure the floor width first and figure out how it covers. Often you end up cutting off panel width on both the start and finish sides.
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ICC
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 01:43pm
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Quoting: Aklogcabin Jeepers a guy tries to help someone with a suggestion about building a 12-16 cabin . 6 sheets of thin plywood. And others want to comment that any other suggestions or opinions from others just have to be wrong. We all pick up a hammer and drive a nail differently. But we seem to all get the job done. I also feel that our differences is our strength. I would not expect the underlayment of a floor to hold a house together. Or any structure. Excuse me lburners.
That was probably aimed at me for the comment about why not to use a strip under a wall bottom plate at a position where there is a rim joist.
I comment on things I see that do not meet code, not just because code says "no" but because there is engineering behind the various "do-this, don't-do-this" sections of the codes.
No I have never seen a building fall apart because someone used a 2" or whatever strip of subflooring under a bearing wall at a rim joist. But the engineering says it is wrong, so I don't do it and I don't recommend it.
Like all posts made by everyone here as long as we are polite and don't call names, don't spam, don't post porn, don't get too political or religious, I think we are all free to offer advice and criticize.
If someone does not like what I post, don't read it. Others may benefit.
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ICC
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2020 02:28pm
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One more word on this, and an example of why I do believe placing a strip under a wall plate that also has a rim joist below it.
We do not know what the future will bring. Maybe someday down the road someone will want to attach a deck to that side. Maybe they will simply lag screw a ledger onto the rim and build the deck off that. Now that alone is a problem, it is not correct to do that. There are special metal ties developed for that purpose. However, ledgers are attached to rims by many folks with lag screws especially by DIY'ers.
Deck to building connections often fail as the rim is slowly pulled away from the joists ends they are nailed to. It is more likely not to fail if a sheet subfloor sheathing is nailed fully to the rim and other joists, all tied together. It couls still fail but the ledger to structure connection would be better than if there was just a strip of filler material under the wall plate.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2020 08:03am
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Cutting off excess at the rim joist is pretty standard. I would still want the tongue and groove to land on a joist. Something that non standard witldth sheething wont do.
I'm also failing to see much of any benefit of useing advantex for a sub floor. Once the roof is on the advantage is gone. With a 12x16ft building once the floor joists are on it should go pretty quick.
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lburners
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2020 10:48am
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"pretty quick" would probably not be an accurate description of my work style.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 8 Aug 2020 05:53am
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Lol how long do you expect it to take to get the roof on? Most plywood can be outside for a while.
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