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paulz
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2020 01:01pm
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I built my new shop on top of an old basement. It was a drive through thing and the floor is sloped toward the driveway. It's not a big deal but I'm curious if I could level the floor without removing the existing concrete?
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FishHog
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2020 01:36pm
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they make a self leveling concrete. Its thin enough that you pour it on and it levels itself then sets up. I suspect there are steps to take to ensure it bonds properly but I'm sure it is possible.
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qbodsyt
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2020 02:16pm
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Definitely possible, not sure how expensive though...I've helped friends who were finishers do a couple jobs like that but I think the product we used was pretty expensive
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Brettny
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2020 02:43pm
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Self leveling will prob not hold up well to any type of vehicle trafic.
I wouldnt mess with it unless your going to repour the whole floor.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2020 03:28pm
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Quoting: Brettny Self leveling will prob not hold up well to any type of vehicle trafic.
Yeah maybe not.
looking at your picture Paul, don't they typically pour like that intentionally to keep rain water out and to let any that does blow in run back out? i'm not sure I would mess with it.
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ICC
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2020 04:33pm - Edited by: ICC
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Leveler is best used for small batches. I've used CTS Rapid Set Concrete Leveler. About $25 per 50# bag IIRC. Mix with water, spread, about a 15 min pour life. It is also best used for small height increases; less than 2 inches. Aggregate may be added to do an area that needs for thickness. Great for leveling a concrete floor when tile is to be installed.
I have both level and sloped areas in my shop. The areas where woodworking and metalworking machines are placed is as close to 100% level as was possible. Areas I might place a vehicle or some wheeled device have slopes for drainage.
If you really wanted to get that area more level I would suggest thinking about clearing everything out and building a level set of forms around the entire perimeter. Then lay a sheet of poly on the concrete as a bond break. Then pour enough concrete with a minimum thickness of 2 inches. Using this method usually keeps cracks in the existing floor from appearing in the new concrete directly above the old cracks, whereas pouring on top of and going to extra efforts to bond the layers will usually have the old cracks telegraphed into the new layer in short order.
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paulz
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2020 05:01pm
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Quoting: FishHog looking at your picture Paul, don't they typically pour like that intentionally to keep rain water out and to let any that does blow in run back out? i'm not sure I would mess with it.
Yes that's probably why it is that way, originally it was open, no door. And it hasn't been an issue for me but the new doors I made have a gap at the bottom about equal to the slope. I'm thinking I will just put some rubber strips (they swing out) at the bottom, just thought I'd look into it.
I suppose I could pour regular concrete with some rebar into the old concrete, get it up to under an inch and pour the self leveling over that but as has been said it would probably not be very durable.
Thanks for the replies!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2020 08:38pm
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Quoting: paulz I suppose I could pour regular concrete with some rebar into the old concrete, get it up to under an inch and pour the self leveling over that but as has been said it would probably not be very durable.
Yeah, where its thin and feathers into the original, will always be breaking. Unless you want to get a concrete saw and cut out a large section up to where the taper starts, break it out with a jackhammer (I have a large and medium electric one, the large one) and pour a new small pad, that would work. Or, cut it and have one of those slab jack company s pump in the slurry under it and lift it up???
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