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Nickels
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2020 05:12pm - Edited by: Nickels
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So I am at the point of construction where its time to put in the wood burning stove. I scored a brand new wood burning stove from Lowes for 1/2 price. I put up Durock and now just finished putting up some brick veneer. Built a hearth out of 2x4 and put a piece of ply and some more Durock on top of the plywood. I will now be putting 3 pieces of 1/2" blue slate down. 1st question. I follow a Youtube channel and they are in the same part of their build as I am. They put micore board under the Durock. Saying they where told if they didn't do this or use a hearth pad underneath the stove. Your Cabin will burn down. Well I think that's BS because I seen a lot of people have their woodburning stove on plywood for years with Zero issues. What do you guys think? Should I get the pad? I think the guy at the store was just taking them for a ride. Because that stuff it expensive. I have never installed a woodburning stove so any help would be appreciated. I have read up on it and watch a lot of how to videos. But another thing I keep seeing everyone doing different is the roof flashing. (USING A METAL ROOF) I am using Dektite #8 High temp Red Silicone Metal Roof Pipe Flashing. As the triple wall exits the roof it will have the boot fitted around it. Then high temp silicone sealant under the boot and then the boot screwed to the metal roof with many screws. Make sure the height of the pipe is up to code, the cap and that's it! But I see people using storm collars, more metal flashing and even another piece of metal roof flashed around it. I think my method is correct but people have me scratching my head. Thanks for any feed back. I am just looking for some reinsurance. I don't want to have any regrets. Come follow along with my build! Liberty Creek
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Princelake
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2020 06:20pm
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I would be in contact with your insurance company and where I live you have to get it w.e.t.t certified and I'd be calling that inspector to see what he'd like to see. Also is your hearth large enough? Typically from the ash tray below the door they want you to have a fire proof hearth around 18-24"
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Nickels
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2020 07:21pm - Edited by: Nickels
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Yeah.... No inspectors or w.e.t.t. where I live. No codes. One of the reason I moved there. Hearth extensions extends at least 10-16 inches. That is not my concern in the least. Not going to use the ash tray. Im not worried about when the door opens and something may pop out. Or when the ashes are getting cleaned out. I do have a wood burning stove at my home and am not new at using them. Just never installed one. lol IM looking for guidance more for the two things I asked about. Think those safety concerns are at a user level not a installation. Thanks for the response but still looking for those answers. Where are you located?
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Princelake
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2020 08:39pm
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I'm located in Ontario Canada. If you have slate and durock below that with nowhere for a spark go to then I see no point in putting that micore board under it.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2020 09:03pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Nickels, does your woodstove have permanent shields attached to it? What are the clearances, it will be listed on stove via a tag. Just adding cement board and stone doesn't decrease clearance, it need an air gap to work., Otherwise, they go by closest combustible material. Which would be the wall framing. As for hearth, same deal, I just purchased a hearth, all compliant and just drop it in place. They have corner ones too. Mine is in a corner. I think they want 16" or so in front of the stove on that hearth. X from the sides and back. If you have metal panels fixed to the stove with air space between stove and panels, you can get it much closer to the wall. Looking at hearth, it appears too short.
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Nickels
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2020 09:25pm - Edited by: Nickels
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I think you guys are right about the hearth. I may have to add on to it. Be honest with you, not sure if I will. lol That isn't a issue. My stove is sitting up on a pedestal and has a integrated, wrap-around heat shields provide maximum safety. I am looking through the book and just answer my own questions. "No hearth protection needed." lol Okay... The only question I have is about the roof flashing. I think I am doing it correctly. It just puzzles me why people use hardware that is meant for a shingled roof not a metal roof. Thanks for all you responses. I appreciate it and may be adding on to that hearth once Jenn reads this. lol shhhh... Crazy how the pipes will run you more then the stove.
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ICC
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2020 09:31pm
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Quoting: Nickels It just puzzles me why people use hardware that is meant for a shingled roof on a metal roof.
?? they don't know about the silicone boots
?? they don't trust the new-fangled silicone boots
?? sometimes they are cheap as the silicone cost a little more as a rule.
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Nickels
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2020 09:40pm - Edited by: Nickels
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Quoting: ICC ?? they don't know about the silicone boots ?? they don't trust the new-fangled silicone boots ?? sometimes they are cheap as the silicone cost a little more as a rule.
So its them and not me? Excellent! That is all I needed to hear. I follow Wild Wonderful Off-Grid on you tube. These two really have done some incredible stuff. So when they did their the stove install... It left me scratching my head. I sent them a message and they said, "that is how the stove store installers guided them to do it." So I thought to put it out to you guys. Thanks for your help I feel a little better about going on with the install.
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ICC
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# Posted: 8 Apr 2020 09:52pm - Edited by: ICC
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I truly love the silicone boots with metal roofs; I have used a lot from the small ones for vents and for electrical wiring as well as for gas and wood chimneys.
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snobdds
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2020 01:13am - Edited by: snobdds
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When I did mine, I used the silicon boot, but opted for butyl tape under the flange instead of caulk. You will get a much better and long lasting seal. I have to use a snow diverter and used the butyl tape under that as well.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2020 02:29pm - Edited by: Brettny
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I used the same rubber boot on our metal roof. I used Henry flashing cement around/under it to seal. It comes in a cawlk tube and drys pretty rubbery.
Put a V of silicone or the flashing cement above the boot to help drain any water away. Also around where the boot meets the chimney pipe.
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