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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2020 20:52
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Hi, my Bunkie is 10x12, it's on blocks, on a slight incline and sitting between two large trees (in Canada). It's pretty solid as is, and seems to accommodate small frost movements, but I wanted to widen it from 10x12 to 16x12 (3' extension on each side). I was going to run 5x16' beams underneath, raise it a few inches and build the 3'x12' extensions on each side.
Has any tried expanding a Bunkie that's only on blocks? Is the frost going to rip it apart or is it still small enough to handle a little movement?
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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2020 20:59 - Edited by: derek4u
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This is what it looks like now!
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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2020 21:07
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You can see the blocks better here..
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 06:51
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I think the best thing to do is to jack it up and run new beams 90* from the ones that are already there. Support on blocks as needed.
Unless your willing to sister up all the current floor joists under the whole cabin. This is a lot more lumber though.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 07:03
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I would agree with Brettny. Maybe get a few powerlam beams run them under the house perpendicular to existing framing with new footings then build off of that.
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gwindhurst
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 08:24
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Quoting: Brettny I think the best thing to do is to jack it up and run new beams 90* from the ones that are already there. Support on blocks as needed.
I think that's exactly what his plan is based on CAD renderings above. With that in mind I believe it would be fine, as the entire structure would "float" as a whole on a new cross beams/skids.
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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 10:05 - Edited by: derek4u
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Thanks everyone!
Yes, the first sketchup shows 4 6x6 beams running perpendicular. I was actually going to use 5. Maybe a lot of work for an extra 60 sq feet, but I love this bunkie - it's just really small!
The ground consists of a lot of mature tree roots and lower spots that get wet in the spring - so no chance to go below frost line.
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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 10:06 - Edited by: derek4u
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I would have to support the beams along the existing edge of the cabin (10' apart) and then on the ends (16' apart), but not centre as I can't reach underneath.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 12:15
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Since your only 10ft wide why not add sono tubes and real footings under the new section and use some real 12in beams for under everything.
6x6 posts are not strong. 6x6 bend very easily when laws flat, there better in vertical position. Use at least 2 2x10s.
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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 12:57
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Ok, that's a good point. The structure is about 8' from some huge, beautiful trees and the ground is very rocky below grade, so I'm not optimistic about digging too deep. Maybe I need to look at some helical piles.
You're right, if I can create a new platform with 2x10s underneath, that might do it!
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 15:35
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I would not do all that work. I would pour 3 or 6 more sonatubes in front of the deck, extend the deck and the roof out on the front, close it in, done.
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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 15:54
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Hmm... which part do you think is too much work?
It's actually the roofing aspect that kills me. I'm good working at ground level but having to go up and down ladders (or build scaffolding) on uneven ground is a nightmare.
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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 15:56
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I still want something small/modest - I just want it to look nice too, you know? Anyone can slap together a shed but I think it's worth it give it some curb appeal...
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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 15:57
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Let's be honest - anyone on this forum is chasing a dream. There's nothing practical about erecting a building in the middle of the woods, far from civilization!
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 16:08
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You don't need scaffolding.
Why not build the foundation and outer walls like your saying then from the original ridge board run new rafters from it to the new outside walls. You could remove one old rafter and install a new longer one in its place very easily. Such a small cabin I'm sure would benefit from some head room.
With the two bump outs in your drawing you would need to keep the old exterior walls under them as there still load bearing. What would you do with a 3ft wide section the length of your cabin?
If you really want to get fancy with it do a gambrel roof for the most head room in the loft.
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derek4u
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2020 16:19
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By the way, this forum is amazing. So many helpful people taking time out of their day to give their two cents. Thank you all!
So we all have our quirks. Mine is I don't want to work up too high. I built this cabin all by myself btw.
So, I actually want to add a 12x16 screen room extension a the back, the ground continues to incline a foot or so over that distance, which is why I wanted to raise the bunkie. I just figured why not push out the sides a bit while I'm at it. I was hoping to just add enough space for a compost toilet and a small kitchen counter. Maybe I'll just push out a couple of spots only a foot or two so I don't have to do much with the roof and focus on extending the rear.
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