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Brettny
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# Posted: 11 Jul 2020 08:02am
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Since the loft floor joists, roof rafters and wall top plate all have to touch...could you use a very steep 12/12 pitch roof or a gambrel roof?
These are the only two roof systems I know of that will give the most head room.
If you go by R305.1 and dont have that head room it would not be habitable space this not taxed?
We plan on doing a 12/12 or 11/12 pitch on a 20' wide building. This would give us roughly 9ft of head room under the peak and 6ft head room about 5ft from the outerwall. 12in loft floor joists and no knee walls.
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 11 Jul 2020 12:17pm
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Wow, the guy’s building a small cabin in the woods. Lots of opinions. Every building I’ve worked on has different issues. I suspect that if small cabin members all had to go have their cabins inspected and built to national building code standards ,even if there’s no local code , there would be a lot less cabins around. And homeless people.
How forces are distributed throughout a building should work together. I’ve seen way more cabins built in Ak that get totally covered in snow, withstood 7 plus earthquakes and grizzly bears. Than I have cabins that have been inspected by engineers.
To me . It seems the thought of going out and dreaming up a 14’ x 20’ cabin. Asking around folks who have different skills. And getting help if you need it . Arguing over wether an engineer will approve this or that and posting codes. Almost like folks have to be shamed into doing things the way someone else see’s it.
Again just my thoughts. I get the safety issue. But a little common sense can go a long ways also. And life has taught me that most folks know more than I give them credit. Meaning that there’s lots of smart people out there. I do enjoy reading new ideas and concepts and work arounds. I don’t think the government would approve the lift that I’m building for my handicapped wife . But my common sense says that a 2000 pound winch bolted through a 6†log with 1/2†galvanized bolts painted with rustolium will hold her. We have a full upstairs and enjoy the space. When it gets warm we have a door on one end and window on the other. And a covered deck out front. Figuring this stuff out is half the fun. Most important I feel very confident in the cabin I built.
Again just my thoughts. I hope all are getting out and working on their cabins great success.
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 13 Jul 2020 12:19pm
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Hello Hang. How’s the cabin doing? Went back and reread and got to thinking. I’m no expert but built a few things. For roof joists I would use 2â€-12†-12’. The 12’ length for a little more overhang. The 12†height gives you a fairly large mating surface at the peak. If you use a good waterproof glue , I was taught to put it on both sides and cover the entire surface. And push it into the woods end grains. The hight also gives you a fairly large face to attach 3/4†plywood gussets , triangles, to each face. Glued and nailed or screwed. And allows for more insulation and air flow above that. Frozz blocking between the roof joists.
If the bottom of the roof joist is on the top plate I may be missing something but the headroom would not be effected if the joist was thicker but maybe I’m seeing it wrong.
As for as side forces on the walls. Maybe datto 2â€-8†boards perpendicular to the floor joists like 4 or so evenly spaced and used 2â€-6†tongue n groove for flooring in the loft. To distribute floor weight Wood look nice and be a finished product when done. And tie the walls together better. Glue clamp and nail the upper wall plates . Hope that gives you something to chew on. Good luck.
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