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MJR0311
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 12:15am
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Hi guys. I’m back, this time in need of some creative minds regarding my cabin plumbing and I know someone here has an answer.
I need to find a way to construct a pipe chase to conceal about 15 feet of horizontal 2†pvc vent pipe and 2 pex water lines. If you look at my pic, the pipe has to be routed across the top of that door. I cannot cut into that log and we have no other options but to run the pipes across that log or maybe just below it. Any ideas?
This is how we bought the place...unfinished and unplanned in many aspects. I’ll be asking for more creative advice on wiring...they didn’t plan for that either. Thanks for looking!
Mike
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spencerin
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 12:42am
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Where is all that piping entering the picture from?
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hijlehhw
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 02:21am
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Could build a tray with PVC/PEX inside and then run LED strip also to make it look like it was planned accent piece rather than what it is.
This guy does something similar but with crown rather than a box like you would need, but its enough to give you an idea of what I mean. Could trim it out in nice wood/stain and actually might look really nice depending on your skill set. Log work takes tons of planning and some people forget about that when not using traditional building methods.
Is the cabin on a slab or full basement?
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 06:49am
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Really the only way to do it is going to be to trim it out. There's really no hiding it if you can't go under the floor below the door.
Find a nice straight log and start carving the back out with a chainsaw. I like the led strip thing.
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Nobadays
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 08:35am
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Is there any way you can use an under sink vent such as this? My first log home was in Oregon and they did not allow these in stick built homes, just mobiles, but the plumbing inspector made an exception. Saved boring logs. This would get you down to just having to run the PEX, a lot less to conceal.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 08:42am
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Quoting: Nobadays Is there any way you can use an under sink vent such as this? My first log home was in Oregon and they did not allow these in stick built homes
Air admittance valve, how does one vent an island sink? I see these all the time.
I think either that valve or like the other poster said, carve out a log which was my first though.
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MJR0311
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 08:44am
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Thanks guys, you’re giving me things to think about. The pipes will be running from a utility room which is to the right of the door, and across the door to a bathroom that’s to the left of the door. The whole thing is built on a slab, no basement.
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MJR0311
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 08:52am
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I was considering using AAV vents here instead of venting through the roof until I learned that because AAVs are against code in MN still, my place would never pass inspection if I ever decided to sell it.
That’s MN for you.
To you guys suggesting carving out the log...In your mind how would this look in the end, like a half log? And then I would somehow connect it to the log above the door? Or were you thinking a smallish 4-6†log below the big log? I admit, one thing I lack is any form of artwork creativity.
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MJR0311
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 09:06am
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Here’s a clearer pic of the span I have to cross. This was taken before my rooms were framed up.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 09:12am
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Are your framed exterior walls structural? Or is it all on the logs?
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MJR0311
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 09:16am
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They’re structural. Above that first horizontal log you see are another 10 logs. It’s a heavy place. I don’t dare bore large holes through those log posts.
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Atlincabin
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 10:13am
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I would consider pulling the header from the door and replacing it with something smaller, since it's not really structural (the horizontal log above is taking the load). You mention not daring to bore a hole in the vertical log posts, but I'm not sure why that would be an issue, unless that would almost cut the log in half. If those are 2x6 walls, then a 2" diameter hole would use less than half of the thickness of the logs. A couple smaller holes below/above that for the pex lines. If they're 2x4 walls, then you might lose too much wood. You could also add a couple additional studs next to the log to add strength (though they would have to be bored as well).
Just my opinion, based solely on the photos, so take it for what it's worth. The other suggestions are also viable but you will have to make the judgment on what is right for your situation.
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RiverCabin
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 03:03pm
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Fair warning, I'm stupid but no way would I run those across the log.
I'd run a vent in the bathroom either in the wall or through the roof. I know all the good reasons for not venting into a wall but people still do it.
Then I'd run the pex in the wall and bore the logs. Two 1/2 inch hole aren't going to affect structural integrity.
If that absolutely isn't an option, I'd run a channel in the concrete and run them under the floor.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 03:59pm
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If you can’t run it any other way and it has to be boxed out or seen I would use a better material like copper or cast iron and try to make it accent the room instead of trying to halfass hide it behind a fake log. When done right mechanicals can be thing of art.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 04:10pm
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O that 2i. PVC is just a vent. You don't need it to go to the roof. Under sink is fine.
Although dirty and dusty the best visual option may be to saw cut a slot in the concrete, chip it out and lay pipes in there...Then fill with concrete. This is assuming your current concrete floor isn't radiant and is only a sub floor.
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MJR0311
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 05:20pm
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Thanks for all the advice guys, and for giving me a lot to think about. Messing with the concrete is out because of the radiant flooring in the slab. Atlincabin I’m gonna look closely at your suggestion to see if I can pull that off, Im not quite sold on the wall venting idea...especially with Murphy’s Law being my constant companion. you guys really do have some good ideas and I’m really glad you responded. Thank you.
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MJR0311
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 11:46pm
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Do you have a link or pic to what you’re explaining here?
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2020 08:25am
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I like atlincabins idea, remove the header, put a heavy support across the top of the door opening (4X6 on its side), then little crippler studs to the top, drill through the crippler studs. That massive log eliminates a need for a header I would think over the door.
Solves it all and still look good when finished out.
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MJR0311
Member
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# Posted: 13 Mar 2020 11:41pm
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Thanks for the opinion and I Think I’m going to try that. And sorry for the late response, my alerts stopped working.
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