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eligh
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2020 08:19pm - Edited by: eligh
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I plan on using this footprint here with the front posts being 8x8
And all other posts being 6x6
https://i.ibb.co/phg3j7n/Screenshot-20200209-185136.png
I want to use a 22 foot wide garage door on the front elevation so I do not want any mid posts
Only corners there
I'll use a triple thick 5-1/4x16"x24' LVL (I have access to Boise Cascade or LP) to handle the span
Like this
https://i.ibb.co/Jp4sFnD/Screenshot-20200209-185215.png
I plan on using 6x6 for the top plate as well
It'll essentially be a wooden Stonehenge
Like this
https://i.ibb.co/GdVsB21/Screenshot-20200209-185425.png
Thoughts on the long front span???
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Brettny
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# Posted: 10 Feb 2020 12:30pm
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Is this a post foundation drawing or are you post and beam building with sections of stick built?
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eligh
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2020 05:40pm
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The floor/foundation will be traditional floor joist sitting atop doubled glued and screwed 2x10 beams
Those beams will rest stop sonar tubes
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eligh
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2020 07:03pm
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https://images.app.goo.gl/ijQZfEdnV4cBa2ib6
It will be the above but add 3/4 plywood on those floor joists.
From there stand up there 6x6
In between the 6x6 will be 2x6 studs used for the walls
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ICC
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2020 08:49pm
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Is this to be an actual garage? The wide door would lead me to believe so.
And this floor is to be a typical wood framed floor as the 16x24 image that you linked to?
If so, have you thought out the floor loads? A parked vehicle introduces point loads; 4 wheels with a rather small contact patch loading the floor is a much different engineering calculation than the overall dispersed load that is assumed for a residential floor (40 PSF spread more or less evenly).
IF this is a garage that vehicles will be driven into the inertia load that is generated when the brakes are suddenly applied should also be taken into account.
If for a garage what is the plan to cover the water that will almost certainly drain off a wet vehicle?
That front wall, 24 feet wide with a 22 foot wide door offers about zero side to side resistance to lateral loads. Code these days calls for a 4 foot wide sheathed wall section on both sides of that opening, or an engineered solution using an engineered shear wall design. Google "portal frame".
Why the large posts?
More details on the building purpose would allow better comments and/or advice.
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ICC
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2020 08:53pm
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Quoting: eligh doubled glued and screwed 2x10 beams
Two 2x10's to make a beam? One down each side?
How far apart are the sonotube piers planned to be?
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eligh
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 04:22am - Edited by: eligh
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This is not a garage
It is a weekend cabin for myself
It will not be filled with a lot of stuff
Bed, sofa, few chairs, a desk
This is out in the country so there are no codes that need to be followed or permits to be signed off.
I wanted the wide open space on this wall for unobstructed views.
I'm going for this, but not using that really expensive window system: https://images.app.goo.gl/JQYzf3c9njPcJioL9
https://www.digsdigs.com/interiors-with-glass-garage-doors/pictures/115329/
https://www.digsdigs.com/photos/2017/03/18-bi-fold-garage-doors-open-the-living-room- to-the-outdoor-spaces.jpg
Large posts are more for aesthetics than engineering.
I simply like the look of large wooden posts used in buildings.
There will be five beams spaced 6 feet apart (0, 6, 12, 18, 24)
The floor joists will rest on top of those beams
3/4 plywood will go on top of the joists.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 06:47am
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5 beams seams way over kill but I guess it depends on the floor joist size.
Getting all your sono tube height exactly dead level and all in the right spot can be very difficult. How do you plan on doing this? Putting a post on top of and under the beams allows for a lot of adjustment later. It will also allow for a bit less concrete to be used and easier to add skirting later.
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eligh
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 09:52am
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Did I mention no snow load?
We might get a light dusting twice every five years
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eligh
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 09:54am
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Quoting: Brettny 5 beams seams way over kill but I guess it depends on the floor joist size. Getting all your sono tube height exactly dead level and all in the right spot can be very difficult. How do you plan on doing this? Putting a post on top of and under the beams allows for a lot of adjustment later. It will also allow for a bit less concrete to be used and easier to add skirting later.
You'd recommend four (4) beams?
At what spacing?
This will be 24x24.
As far as sono tubes I planned on using shims for the very small amount I'd be "off" once settling occurrs.
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ICC
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 10:35am
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Quoting: eligh This is out in the country so there are no codes that need to be followed or permits to be signed off.
Strong winds don't cease to blow because there is no code enforcement. Strong winds are the reason for the structural elements of building code.
Good luck
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Brettny
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2020 04:23pm
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Finding out what code is for a floor joist span would help as I don't even know your location.
But with 2x12x12' 3 could work just fine. Bring in the outside one's a bit also. 2x12x8ft would also work with 4 beams. You just really want the joists to break on a beam/girter. 2x10 may work for 8ft span too.
How did you plan on breaking the joists with 5 girters?
With your front having such a wide opening you will want those posts over a sono tube. I would advise against such a wide opening on a 24ft wide building.
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eligh
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2020 04:03am - Edited by: eligh
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Quoting: ICC Strong winds don't cease to blow because there is no code enforcement. Strong winds are the reason for the structural elements of building code. Good luck
I was saying there are no codes to follow to say that I don't have to wait on any permits to be signed by a govt official.
If the permit calls for spacing to be 16" but I need to make mine 15 3/4" or 16 1/2" I could do that and not worry about my other being stopped.
I don't want to reduce the structural integrity of my structure as I do not want it falling on top of me or catching fire.
Oh, in town code requires any structure like this to be a minimum of 1,000 sq ft
Mine is only 24x24 and would never even be considered for a permit as the footprint is too small.
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eligh
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2020 04:16am
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Quoting: Brettny Finding out what code is for a floor joist span would help as I don't even know your location.
The City uses the 2009 ICC (International Codes) for buildings, plumbing, gas energy conservation and mechanical installations. The City uses the 2008 Edition of the National
electrical code for electrical installations.
This is turning out to be a nice little engineering and architectural learning project.
Either I can enlist an engineer to beef up my header beam (I know that's that correct term for this long beam) or I can narrow the expanse to 16 ish feet
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