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Princelake
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2019 07:19am
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This coming spring I will be starting to frame my 16x24 cabin. I plan to have trusses at 16'. Im deciding between a standard truss or go with a vaulted truss. I live in a very cold very snowy area of Canada. Any negatives about going vaulted? Cost does not matter.
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deercula
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2019 08:23am - Edited by: deercula
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Because heat rises, vaulted will take longer to heat up if you arrive to a cold cabin. For me the look and feel far outweighs this, especially in a smaller (16 X 30 ) like mine. When people come inside for the first time, they always look up.
I've been in small cabins with low, flat ceilings that feel cramped, and cave-like. As always, to each his own!
During construction:
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ICC
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2019 12:06pm
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Quoting: Princelake very cold very snowy area
So is insulation a major factor? Are there minimum R-values that must be used?
Scissors trusses to provide the vaulted ceiling look are available. They can make installing a good amount of insulation more difficult unless you also want to install insulation as a part of the roof deck instead of in the ceiling. There are trusses made with what is called a raised heel that make insulating the ceiling where the truss sits on the wall better.
You can also create a more spacious appearance by building with 9 foot tall walls. I did that in most areas ad stayed with flat horizontal ceilings in most areas.
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Princelake
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2019 03:09pm
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Ya I was definitely going to go with a raised heel vaulted or not to get as much insulation as possible. I want a good amount of insulation in there but it won't be inspected. I believe code around here is r55 minimum but if I'm like r40 I should be fine. Going with 2x6 walls so I can get over r20. I was going to do like a 7/12 pitch so it's steep enough for snow to slide off but still able to stand on the roof and work comfortably and can get them down the highway without wide load signs and a permit
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razmichael
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2019 08:50am
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Alternatives to consider (each with pros and cons as per normal) - You could just use rafters either with a ridge board or a ridge beam. I went with a gambrel (barn) roof using a ridge beam then had the roof spray insulated. Cabin is 16x24 with the last 8 ft an upper level overhang loft over a screened in deck. Ridge beam was made from LVLs - originally thought I would need to lift them up one by one but delivery included a crane so easy. A beam needs support through to the foundation so does have a design impact. Added in that I used 10' walls, this provided a huge usable space in the loft(s). The spray insulation (R50) does a great job both summer and winter. Also sprayed the upper ends. Roxul in the other walls. My build thread My Build
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Princelake
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2019 09:09am
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I work at a local building center that has their own truss plant. If I help the guy build the trusses in an evening or weekend I only have to pay for the material so I'm definitely going with trusses.
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razmichael
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2019 09:52am
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Understood! I suppose I can say the same thing - since I built my own gambrel rafters I only paid for the material 😀
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rpe
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2019 08:52am - Edited by: rpe
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Something like this? These came up for sale in my local FB Marketplace. There's lots of room for insulation and proper ventilation with that design.
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Princelake
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2019 12:22pm
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Ya that's a good design high but not to high so it's still easy to heat when I first show up in the dead of winter
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Brettny
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# Posted: 25 Dec 2019 08:03pm
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Do the vaulted ceiling. Even if it flat at 9+ft. A little head room makes the whole room feel bigger.
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RCPaulie
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2020 09:26am
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Here is a picture of the trusses I built. I used shedkings plans although I went longer on the porch and addition joist so it had an overhang
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2020 11:57am
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On our cabin I have a large overhang to keep the snow from piling on the walls and the drip line away. On my house I have a six foot overhang. They are a scissor truss with a 3/12 inner cord and a 5/12 upper cord. Where the inner or lower cord reaches the wall they extent horizontal for four feet then a two foot tail from the upper cord. Giving me a six foot drip line. And over three feet over energy heel .
Works well if you want a covered four foot wide deck or storage. And keeping the drip line away from the foundation is good.
Good luck on your build.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2020 12:04pm
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Quoting: ICC You can also create a more spacious appearance by building with 9 foot tall walls. I did that in most areas ad stayed with flat horizontal ceilings in most areas.
Keep in mind OP that that extra foot of exterior sheeting comes at a cost, almost double for 4X8 T1-11 at 9 feet. Does it need to extend past the sill plate to foundation, go 10 feet siding.
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