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Janemarie
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2019 10:57pm - Edited by: Janemarie
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Since buying my log cabin in central New York about a year ago, I have asked for advice on this site and have found that pretty much down to the word, the advice I have gotten here has been great. I have a new question. After finishing up the exterior of my cabin this year (stain, new foundation replacing plywood with stone cladding, a new roof) and adding a window to the bathroom, I now can see that the interior logs of the cabin have no finish to speak of. I am wondering if, come summer, I should move everything out and put a clear finish on the interior of the cabin. The cabin is about 26 years old.
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Janemarie
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2019 10:58pm
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I sure would like to know how to edit the title. I meant to say LOG cabin. My wallet may feel a bit flogged, but that Is another matter....
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ICC
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2019 11:00pm
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As for editing the title the best you can do is to use the contact info link and ask cabinbuilder if he could fix the typo for you.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 12 Nov 2019 07:18am
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Post pictures.
Any interior wood in a bathroom need to be very well sealed.
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Atlincabin
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# Posted: 12 Nov 2019 07:25pm - Edited by: Atlincabin
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We used OSMO (German wax product) on the inside of our logs. A lot of work, and pretty pricey, but worth it in the end for us. Going on 7 years now and looks new. Also, once completely cured, it is food-safe (not that we're going to eat off the walls but...). Apparently it is used a lot on floors in Germany, so is pretty robust. Like any finish, it will change the wood color somewhat, but not a lot. When first applied, it looks pretty shiny but after a few weeks ends up semi-gloss to matte type finish.
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2019 11:27am
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I will be using Deft brand waterborne lacquer. On the inside of our log cabin. Two coats probably three where needed like around the windows and window trim. Being as it is water based there are minimal odors. And it dries fast. Can be applied with brush or sprayed. Does not require sanding between coats.
While polyurethane, as opposed to lacquer, is more moisture resistant it requires that it be sanded between cotes. Not practical doing walls. For me anyhow. And the lacquers being produced nowadays are pretty good. It is what is probably on your kitchen cabinets.
This is because lacquers bond chemically. Basically one coat melts into the bottom coat. Polyurethane bonds by a mechanical bond. Thus sanding.
I have used hundreds of gallons of both. And different brands. The Deft is my go to. If staining I use Minwax.
Also if you are going to do multiple layers of topcoat. Whether walls or furniture. If you want to end up with a semi or satin end finish. I always use gloss under all but last coat. What makes a semi or satin finish is flatteners in gloss base. That basically absorb light. So if you wanted a semi or satin end coat if you used only satin for 3 coats you have multiple coats of flatteners and a duller finish. What I do . One or two coats gloss then semi or satin last. Whatever you want to end up with Hope that makes sense.
The difference is what I refer to as luster. When a wood is finished correctly it should dance as you walk by.
Thought this may be particularly helpful to you Janemarie as you seem to enjoy doing this kind of thing.
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