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dcook
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# Posted: 2 Jul 2019 08:51pm
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I am looking to build a 10x16 bunkie on my property. I am trying to figure out my materials and cost.
If I am doing 16" on center for a 10x16 how many 2x4 would I need for the framing?
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Absolutely
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# Posted: 2 Jul 2019 10:31pm - Edited by: Absolutely
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Many. You need 1 bottom and 2 top plates for each wall, plus all 4 walls. Start at 0" as one, then count up by 16" intervals until you reach 10' or 16'. That means 13 each for the long walls and 9 for each short wall. If you want doors and windows you'll need king, jack and cripple studs. Larger dimensional lumber will be required for headers over the doors and windows. Plus you'll need extras to use as bracing during construction.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2019 07:13am
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16'x12" =192" wall length %16" on centers equals 12 studs per 16ft wall.
10'x12" =120" wall length %16" on centers equals 7.5 studs per 10ft wall.
I would round up and put one extra in each corner on each wall.
So you need 48 studs this accounts for no windows and no doors. If you add windows you will need more studs. If you ad doors you need more. This only accounts for vertical studs. Not top plates or bottom plates.
You should really look at a few videos on how to lay out a wall for framing before you go nailing 2x4s together.
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turkeyboyslim
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2019 09:46am
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I'm also building a 10x16 cabin, I might even build 2 if I like the first one. One to use as a shed, the other as a long term home. I am following these plans: https://www.simplesolarhomesteading.com/thoreaucabin.htm
for $5 you can get a whole wealth of information.
The only thing I don't like about it is the walls are 2x4 and the roof is 2x4 on 24"
I live in northern VT near the Canadian boarder, really high up in elevation. I'm hoping this will be strong enough.
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Absolutely
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2019 09:59am
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There's nothing saying you can't use 2x6 rafters on 16" centres instead of 2x4 on 24". 2x4 walls will be plenty strong enough. 2x6 walls allow more room for insulation as well as running utilities through them.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2019 10:10am - Edited by: Steve_S
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2x4 = RUN forest RUN ! 2x6 walls & 2x8 roof if you want it to survive & also insulation space, 2x4 is just not enough. 24OC if perfect fine and using Advanced Framing Methods is best.
I built my walls as 8'x8' modules with 24oc. The modules with only a single base & top and sheathed on the floor when nice & square. I attached a 2x6-PT baseplate (gasketted & sealed) to the Slab Foundation using specialised hardened concrete bolts for this purpose (code approved) see below. 2nd Top plate tied the tops together and the walls were attached together nails & screws per code.
BTW: 2x4's today are such crappy wood, I really would not consider using them for anything that you want to last for any amount of time... not to mention, way overpriced for what t is too...
EDIT: If your in Vermont, have a peek at Jamaica Cottage Shop !
https://jamaicacottageshop.com/
Plans, Buildings and more, well priced & from everything I've heard over the past few years, very good quality work.
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dcook
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2019 10:55am
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I was thinking 2x6 but really its not going to be used in the winter so I won't insulate it, so I thought 2x4 would be fine?
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turkeyboyslim
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2019 11:15am
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Quoting: Steve_S 2x4 = RUN forest RUN ! 2x6 walls & 2x8 roof if you want it to survive
Quoting: Steve_S If your in Vermont, have a peek at Jamaica Cottage Shop !
Thank you for the input, I was a little iffy about 2x4s In my defense I was going to put a metal roof to help with shedding the snow load but still was uncertain.
I have checked out Jamaica Cottage shop but once you go from a Pre-Cut-Kit which is basically the shell, siding and roof to a 3 or 4 season package the price jumps up exponentially for some reason. I am still considering it, since I am inexperienced with building anything. I'm really indecisive and I keep going back and forth between the PCK's and building myself from plans. I think I'll have another go-over at the cottage shop since I'm starting to feel a little overwhelmed by the building process.
Another concern with the Cottage shop was the construction method looked strange to me, I'm a rookie and don't know much though. https://jamaicacottageshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/8x10-Bunkie-Cottage-18-5296 -interior.jpg?x74439
here is a picture of a bunkie I'd likely buy If I did go with them. Now I know they are located in southern VT and claim there structures are plenty rugged enough for our weather, but doesn't it look like a lot of space between the supporting beams?
Taken from: https://jamaicacottageshop.com/shop/8x10-bunkie-cottage/
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Absolutely
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2019 11:25am
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2x4s are fine. Millions of buildings used 2x4s and are still standing today. I do find that true 2x4s are of higher quality than stud-length 2x4s though, straighter and with less bark.
My bible for construction, "Graphic Guide to Frame Construction" has a discussion on 2x4 vs 2x6 walls. The author says a 2x6 wall on 24" centres uses 20% more material than a 2x4 wall on 16" centres. He also notes you are required to use thicker sheathing and interior finishes due to the wider spacing.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2019 11:58am
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ON those PICS: What you see is Board & Batten on the outside & you see the backside internally. They are using 4x4 post & beam method in that, hence why you see them. It's in the Specifications page.
I have watched the quality of wood get really sad in the past 5 years and the prices skyrocket in some cases by 500% ! YES, 500% !! and 2x3, 2x4 are so knotty and semi-twisty, I won't bother with them anymore... Fortunately I have many small Lumber Mills close by so I have options readily at hand.
Advanced Framing Method References:
https://www.apawood.org/advanced-framing
https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/energy-efficient-home-design/advanced-house-framin g
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/the-pros-and-cons-of-advanced-framing
PDF from EnergyStar on Advanced Framing:
https://www.energystar.gov/ia/home_improvement/home_solutions/doeframing.pdf
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