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Lippy667
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# Posted: 29 May 2019 12:19pm
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So we met with our forester on our property last weekend. 30 completely wooded acres in northern (lower) Michigan. He has been trying to find someone to log it for us to thin things out as it is pretty thick and not the healthiest. We bought it about a year and a half ago and he estimated nothing has been done out there in at least 85 years, that's when a big fire went through the area. Unfortunately no loggers will touch it since we have a small bridge on the only way in to the property on a private road that won't hold a logging truck. They would need to skid the logs about a mile to the next closest landing area. Since we have almost all red and white pine, it's not really worth it for them.
So he found a local with a portable sawmill, where he wants to come in and take down the trees and saw what he needs on site for his own cabin, and he can then take the wood off no problem. In exchange we get however much we want cut to size also.
Now, I had been planning a conventionally framed cabin, about 16 x 24, but if I can get wood sawn from on-site to whatever sizes I need it, would be a shame not to make a nice timber framed rustic cabin. Problem is, I have not timber framed before. I have done conventional framing of houses, pole barns, and even some log houses (D-logs), but nothing timber framed. I have also done a lot of woodworking with different joints, but not on this scale. I believe I have the skill set, just not the knowledge. Does anyone know of any good books to get started? Anything with how to size timbers also, the usual span tables don't list info for timbers.
Thanks for any info, as usual my best laid plans got thrown out the window before even starting, but I think it can work out even better. It just has changed our time frame a bit, and our budget in a good way.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 29 May 2019 04:26pm
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Take a look at forestryforum.com. Look for the Timber Framing/Log construction subforum. Lot's of info on timber framing there.
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ICC
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# Posted: 29 May 2019 05:34pm
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I second that idea. Great site, great people.
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rockies
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# Posted: 29 May 2019 08:44pm - Edited by: rockies
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When using green wood you must be cognizant of how much the wood will shrink when drying out. The timbers will not shrink very much along their lengths but can shrink quite a bit across their widths.
This can cause problems with doors and windows jamming up or joints pulling apart. You can use this calculator to figure out the approximate amount of shrinkage.
http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=shrinkage
You should also buy a good moisture meter so you know how green the wood is to begin with.
Another thing to know about drying wood is that the timber needs to reach an equilibrium point of dryness depending on your location. For example, if your wood timbers have a moisture content of 30% when cut and you had it dried using a mechanical heater down to 18% moisture content the wood could still continue to dry out and shrink if the local outdoor moisture level is 14%.
If you look at this article (and ignore all the math) you can find your location in the charts and see what your local outdoor moisture level is throughout the year. This is the level that your timbers will finally stabilize at when they are finished drying out.
http://www.logbuilding.org/EquilibriumMoistureContent.pdf
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ICC
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# Posted: 29 May 2019 09:30pm
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Timber framing around here is usually done with green to greenish timbers unless materials are being re-used. Often the trees are cut in the fall and saw to the rough sizes. Keep them out of the sun. Seal all the ends with Anchor Seal. Over the winter the joints are cut. Re-seal any ends that are cut off; some folks seal end grain in mortises they may be cutting. It slows end drying down to better match the drying of the rest of the timber. Less checking. Erect the frames in the early spring. Roof and enclose the walls over the summer. When the building is heated the first winter there will be lots of creaking and snaps, pops, etc. as things dry.
Cut pins from dry and straight grained stock.
Study up and make a test frame before committing to the time needed to cut, fit, assemble.
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Lippy667
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# Posted: 30 May 2019 12:05pm
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Thanks for the info guys. The Forestry Forum had a lot of info and has a nice calculator for beam sizes, and found a couple recommended books I ordered. The main one recommended even had plans for pretty much the cabin I was thinking, just need to expand a bit. The shrinkage calculator is also nice.
Not sure if we will get to cut this fall or next spring. I'm not going to be messing around in the woods during hunting seasons. Would end up with some pretty unhappy neighbors.
I'll play in my garage this fall/winter with some test pieces and hopefully start next year after the snow melts. Which didn't really happen until May this year. Although I plan on putting in a wood stove, I don't think that will happen for a couple seasons. That should help the timbers dry a little more naturally and hopefully reduce checking a little.
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