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MikeOnBear
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2018 04:21pm
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Anyone with good or bad experiences with this? Am at the point of decking roof and then putting up the metal. Next step is siding and was considering using this stuff.
Let me say that my build is about 5' above grade. I will have a covered porch on the back, but the cabin siding will be about 8" above the porch floor. (Pics coming soon, just have to slow down the build long enough to get them posted.)
Their installation instructions talk about a 3/16" gap at edges and z-flashing over doors, windows, and bottom trim. I assume that is to prevent any water from standing on trim edge and staying against the panel board. It seems it would be a lot easier to install panels, then the trim, then caulk all seams. But that is not what they recommend. Who has tried it that way? Did it work or fail?
Thanks
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xtolekbananx
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2018 05:13pm
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My cabin is sided with LP Smartside. It it probably a foot off the ground and been there for 2 years and no problems. LP is painted and nailed straight to framing, no sheating. I also build an outhouse with it, 2 years and no problems. Just this years I added an addition to my cabin using LP and I used Z flashing only where I had to put another board on top of it. As far as windows and doors I used flashing tape, trim and paintable silicone. After many rains no leaks.
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snobdds
Member
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2018 05:14pm
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If you put the trim over the panels, your will never get a tight joint at the corners with trim. You will have a gap and trying to fill it with calk will look terrible and be a maintenance nightmare. The trim and siding need to be in the same plane...
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rockies
Member
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2018 07:26pm - Edited by: rockies
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It's best to install corner boards and have the siding butt up against that (or have a small gap between them and the corner boards - whatever the manufacturer recommends). This makes fitting siding - especially lap siding - much easier.
However, you don't mention whether you have to install a rain gap under the siding. Some manufacturers require it so that the backside of the siding can dry out.
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Princelake
Member
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2018 08:13pm
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I did my outhouse with the smart panels so I'll tell you in a couple years how it's holding up. Those panels are not cheap. It's cheaper to put up 7/16" o.s.b house wrap then put on vinyl siding. It'll be sealed better stronger and less maintenance
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 14 Nov 2018 08:38pm
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Quoting: MikeOnBear But that is not what they recommend.
If the manufacturer does not recommend some method they probably have good reason. Doing whatever you think is easiest or whatever may produce a problem in the future. One thing to note is the warranty will be void if you do not follow the directions.
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MikeOnBear
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2018 07:35am - Edited by: MikeOnBear
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Thanks xtolekbananx
I understand why they say do it that way, it's just the most certain way to ensure water doesn't get behind it or stay on it. Just not sure it is the only way it can be done. Follow all their steps and you are highly likely to keep the water out. The way I was looking at would too if properly sealed after trim is up, but everyone may not do that.
I'll probably follow their instructions anyway.
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bobrok
Member
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2018 11:09am
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I've built 2 sheds using Smartside. All good experiences.
Predrill all your holes.
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Wilbour
Member
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2018 01:55pm
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I bent a lot of nails trying to put this up. It was just siding though as I already had OSB and house wrap. Still have to put trim up on the corners. The edges don't like to get wet.
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rockies
Member
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2018 09:40pm
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Some articles that may help:
https://structuretech1.com/problems-with-lp-smartside-installations/
https://structuretech1.com/wp-content/cache/page_enhanced/structuretech1.com/james-ha rdie-vs-lp-smartside/_index.html_gzip
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Rdkng07
Member
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2018 09:52pm
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Yes I've used it. About 8" off the ground at the lowest point, plywood nails and good paint. Mine came primed, wider than 48" (for overlap), good stuff.
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